Did the 1st gen ever have the rear PDL switch? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Did the 1st gen ever have the rear PDL switch?

offroadford4x4

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City, State
Lewisberry, Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 Eddie
I know the second gens have them, Dads 96 sport has one. Its the power door lock switch back in the left rear 1/4 trim by the window and liftgate. I took notice my 94 has a lil block off plate that pops out right in the same spot his switch is. I don't remember if my old 93 had the plate or not. I know it didn't have the switch.

So did the 1st gen ever have the rear PDL switch? If not, what would it take to wire one in besides the switch it'self? As in where and how would I connect the wiring up front in the oem wiring?
 



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Good question.....ive always wonderd the same thing myself.
 






Having had 3 94's, & now a 93. And looking at countless others when buying one. I have never seen it. Although maybe it was a limited model option? I didn't look at many of those to remember if it was there.
 






That was new for 1995. I have one in my 99 rebuilt truck, and I used the 93 rear quarter trim(cut the hole for the switch).

You can add that, but it needs the wires run to the existing lock wires. That would be in the LF door are, maybe you could find it in the kick panel area. Start by seeing it in the door panel wiring to know what it looks like.
 






Yea those were new in the 2nd gens, I NEVER use mine though, I dont really see the point in it :dunno:
 






They are correct...

It was never FACTORY installed in the 1st Gens....although I have it on my 1st Gen...

Ryan
 






interesting. Cause my 94 for the hole for it in the trim, with a cover plate over it. I was thinking maybe someone replace the trim, but at the junkyard today seems most the 94s had the holes, but none of the 93 and older did. I did snag a switch and pigtail from a 2nd gen tho.

I like the idea that since I don't have keyless, when out shopping be it at the grocery store or what not I can unlock the hatch with the key to load, then hit the switch to unlock the rest of the doors.


Spdrcer34, where did you tie into the stock wiring to install it? Wiring is not beyond my abilities since I've wires stereos, offroad lights, repaired stock wiring etc. Just not sure what wires I'd need to tap into or where.
 






I have a `97 wiring harness in my `92 X from headlamp to tail lights. Dash, doors, engine....the WHOLE thing.

Ryan
 






Well ok then! Lol lots more work that I'd like to do.

Guess I'll have to study the wiring diagrams in my chilton and go from there.
 






Chilton doesn't include anything for the PDLs. Lame. Seems everything else in in the wiring diagrams but that.

So I quick ripped the driver door panel off, and the wires have the same color codes. But the wires into the master switch are much larger than those on the rear switch I picked up. So I'll have to do a bit more digging around to figure out where to connect into but being the same color codes should make it a bit easier. It's a start anyhow.

when I get it all figured out, I'll let yall know.
 






They are very small wires, black/red isn't one of them? That one wire color is very common in the dash, be sure to test the wires you find to splice to. Make sure they have zero resistance to those in the door.
 






This is all for a '94 without keyless entry / active alarm. If you have that stuff, I can only recommend that you buy your year's factory wiring book and go from there. I do not trust chilton's diagrams.

You are looking for two wires, Pink/Black and Pink/Orange. (How festive!)

Lock: Pink/Black = 12V, Pink/Orange = Ground
Unlock: Pink/Orange = 12V, Pink/Black = Ground

The closest place to the tailgate for these wires is actually pretty good. Open the tailgate and sit inside facing out the back, banging ankle against your trailer hitch. Reach up and to your right (facing out now, so this is reaching up and driver side) to the molding over the top of the hatch opening on the inside. In that upper corner, upper driver corner, you will find a couple of wire looms. One of them has these leads.

So, you have that. You can get ground most easily in the jack storage spot. You now need constant 12V. I don't think there is constant 12V anywhere rear of the back axle. You could just run something off the fuse block, that would be pretty easy, up the A pillar and straight back behind the plastic molding. If you tapped off of fuse 6 (30amp) that's the same feed as the regular lock switches.

There are a few ways to set up a switch. The application of 12V must be momentary. You apply 12V and ground to pull the locks closed, then release. If you apply 12V continuously, you will trip a thermal switch in the lock motors, or maybe burn out a motor.
 






Ah, the red/black wire is the constant power in the door. The colors aren't easy to see in the pictures I have of the window switches backside.

Isn't there a constant power in one of the three relays in the area above the jack?
 






Yes indeed, straight orange, no stripe. It ends up going to all three relays. I am not sure if these relays are in the base explorer, it reads it is part of a towing package. But, yes, there is 12V constant on orange. You can pick up ground there, too, straight black wire.
 






Ah yes, I'm recalling mine which was a Limited. I removed all of that to swap to the 99 wiring.
 






I'll definitly check into that. I was figuring I'd have to run wires all the way from the switch up into the door and somehow piggy back it to the master switch. But since there is an actuator in the back gate, it would make sense for wires to run back there as stated.

Thanks for the info! Open for more though too.
 






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