Steps to turn the 1st gen into a trail rig

[Peter Westling]

I have searched to try to gather som info about turning my stock rig into a capable trailrig without going for the big bucks and labour and do SAS and total custom rebuilds. It would be nice if you could chime in with the useful parts one needs to do to handle the trails in a fairly good way. Also suggestions if some of the listings below is not nessecary.

1. 2" front susp skyjacker, roughcountry etc. Camber shims included.
2. 2" in the rear , add a leaf, shackles or both.
3. Extended ventlines from diffs, tcase and tranny.
4. 31" - 33" tires depending of the gear ratio.
5. Remove tupperware.
6. Add some towing hooks in the front and rear.
7. 3" BL
8. Extra oilfilter and tempgauge for the tranny.
9. Rocksliders.

 

[Positive Vibes]

What kind of trail rig? Mud, rock crawling, moderate trails etc???

I would forget the body lift and just get out the sawzall and hack away your fenders.

 

[unclemeat]

Manuel hubs, locking differentials, and remove sway bars.

 

[Peter Westling]

I was thinking moderate trails, nothing extreme to begin with.
The BL has ready been bought. The price was low and I thought it was a good idea to get not only clearance body to ground but also more space underneath when doing repair and maintainance. Especially around the tranny/exhaust and when I going to apply the rocksliders.
Manual hubs will be applied when I brake the stock ones.
Unclemeat: I have LS 3.73 and the locking diffs has to wait since the cost is kind of high.

What is recommendable about the swaybars? Quick disconnects or just remove them and put them away forever? Does it go for both rear and front?
I really appreciate the suggestions I get, thanks!

 

[Positive Vibes]

If you got the BL then go ahead and install it your correct on the clearance theory. You will probally want to make some bumper adapters to get them up and close to the body.

Also good theory on the hubs, I'd keep my eye's open for a used set and the adapter kit. The autos will fail. Couldn't hurt to have the manuals laying around.

I'd also keep my eyes open for a used front locker they pop up on the site now and then.

Most people just remove the rear sway bar. Some people even remove the front but I like the stability the front sways provide on the road. I just made my own. Here is the thread:

Dead Link Removed

 

[Vanquish502]

Put the manual hubs on, then you don't need to buy a front locker. Just weld the front, and since you have manual hubs, you'll be fine on the road. Those hubs just saved you the cost of a front locker.

 

[Positive Vibes]

A locker should be your first modification. I've seen a YJ with 33" tires and 4" lift get stuck in a spot a stock 98 TJ got through because he had a locker.

Also, put the manual hubs on, then you don't need to buy a front locker. Just weld the front, and since you have manual hubs, you'll be fine on the road. Those hubs just saved you the cost of a front locker.

I disagree with the locker being the first mod. But agree that its a great mod and helps get you into trouble. The reason I disagree is that if you learn to wheel without a front locker you will be a much better driver when you do finally get a front locker. I've seen guys with open diffs wheel better than guys with lockers. Its 90% driver, 10% vehicle.

Why would you want to weld the front? Dam thing will tough to turn on the trail. You will be hoping in and out of your rig locking and unlocking your hubs.
Just my $.02.

 

[Peter Westling]

I noticed that when I did the good 'ol governor fix that some clearance around the tcase was wanted. Iwas also planning to bolt the sliders around the frame rather than welding it, I have seen some good options around here on the forum, some looks real stable and some doesnt..

Considering the bumpers, I will probably custom made them too, a good friend of mine has a tube bender that that willl do 2,5" pipes and that should the job I hope.

Bumpers is not that important, I will see If I can get it done at the same time as the BL.

I will have a look at the thread about the swaybars and see what I can get out of it.

What is the opinion about a toggle switch for the ABS?

 

[Positive Vibes]

What is the opinion about a toggle switch for the ABS?

I don't recall anything about a toggle switch for ABS? Most guys just pull the fuse. I just pulled the sensors and wires out from the front tires.

 

[Peter Westling]

I just thought that it could be an easy thing to do, just tap the wires that goes to the fuse and put a switch somewhere around the dashboard.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91337&highlight=toggle+switch+abs

I really liked the solution that you had on the swaybar disconnects. Did you solve the problem what to do with them when theyre disconnected? Did you strap them to something?

 

[Positive Vibes]

I just thought that it could be an easy thing to do, just tap the wires that goes to the fuse and put a switch somewhere around the dashboard.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91337&highlight=toggle+switch+abs

I really liked the solution that you had on the swaybar disconnects. Did you solve the problem what to do with them when theyre disconnected? Did you strap them to something?

Seem easy enough to install a switch.

The home made sway bar disconnects work great! I spray them with wd40 everyonce in a while and about once a year I take them and sand the rust off. Cant beat them for $10!

I don't have to strap the sway bar up, the bushings are tight enough that I just fold it up and it stays there out of the way. I know some people have to use bungee cords to keep them up and out of the way.

 

[Peter Westling]

I will definately try to copy that solution.
How did you tie the custom rocksliders to the frame? Weld or bolted to the frame?

Is there any pictures on the sliders and the bumpers?

 

[Positive Vibes]

I will definately try to copy that solution.
How did you tie the custom rocksliders to the frame? Weld or bolted to the frame?

Is there any pictures on the sliders and the bumpers?

Its worth it for the sways. I actually just found two bolts here at work and had the threads taken off on a lathe.

The rocksliders are welded. Seems most people weld them on that rock crawl. The bumpers are held on with 6 grade 8 bolts each.

I don't have any close up pics of the how the sliders and bumpers are mounted.

Here is a link with a few pics of my truck, pics are on page two etc.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125214&highlight=pic+test

 

[Peter Westling]

Woaw, as the last poster said, they pictures is getting better and better.
What pipesize did you use for the sliders? Looks like 3"?
I am quite amazed that the rig you got is so dent-less is waxing your second hobby..? Next time you pass by your rig, crawling on your kness, post a picture of the framemounts of the sliders.

 

[unclemeat]

If you have good shocks you can get away with removing the rear sway bar. If it is a trailer queen you can remove the front sway bar. If it is to be driven on the road I would go with quick disconnects, or I have seen another sway bar disconnect that is lots better. You have to fix the sway bar to the frame and and cut it in half. then a pipe goes over the cut section. Drill holes through the cut section and pipe and use a hood pin to lock and unlock the bar. It is simple to reconnect and disconnect.

How about the obvious get a winch.

 

[Positive Vibes]

Woaw, as the last poster said, they pictures is getting better and better.
What pipesize did you use for the sliders? Looks like 3"?
I am quite amazed that the rig you got is so dent-less is waxing your second hobby..? Next time you pass by your rig, crawling on your kness, post a picture of the framemounts of the sliders.

Thanks for the compliments! I believe the sliders are 2.5" but I would go 3", mine are a bit weak and have bent up into the rocker panels.

There are a few minor dents, tons of scratches. The white barely shows the damage. Can't honestly remember the last time I waxed it??

I'm still figuring out my digital camera and will try and post some pics for you later.

I do have tons of video!

 

[Peter Westling]

Unclemeat: Winch would be a nice thing to have. There is some local laws here that prevent me for doing it right now, I have to re-register the car into a light truck. Winches is not (really strange) not allowed on "normal cars" here.
I will try getting some hood pin lockers and start modifying the swaybars. As I understand I will get approx 1-2 inches more of the flex without.
What about hook the front coils (last round upper) to the frame? Do they pop out easily when the wheels hang in the air?

PositiveVibes: Is there any place where the videos can be seen?

 

[Positive Vibes]

I've seen the coils pop out on lifted vehicles.

Sorry I don't have my videos downloaded yet. I've been lazy and haven't figured it out. I do have around 5 or 6 hours of solid wheeling.

 

[FROADER]

The sway bar issue is personal preference. I removed both front and rear on my old ex and current ex and had no problems being my daily driver. Your list looks pretty good to me since the body lift has already been bought. I would defenitely go with 33 with that much lift. I had a 4" lift on my old ex with 33s and they fit no problem.

Here are a couple pics of how my sliders are mounted. I don't have a body lift though.

Good luck!

 

[Peter Westling]

Froader:Thanks for chiming in!! I have actually spyed on your construction already! The shape and the mix with the pipe and rectangular pieces looks really solid. Maybe mine will end up like that.
What I am concerned is if you use a hilift or balance (Get stuck) on a rock, does the welding where the metal meets the frame get pass that stress?
I dont know that much about this and I am sure that you probably as the constructor know more about this.
But to illustrate, force goes with the blue arrow and red marking is the supposable place to break.


Second picture is one that I found that gave me the idea to bolt it to the frame, zimmerman way...