Dies when it gets hot, won't start back up until it cools down

[Mberry0614]

99 Eddie Bauer 4.0 SOHC w/ 220xxx
It runs great until it gets hot, then it will either fall flat on its face (with no throttle response). After that, it will not start back up right away, but if i let it cool, it will start back up but as soon as you put it in gear, it will die again. It likes to sputter and backfire. It's also showing my EVAP and EGR monitors are NA or INC. It feels like the engine is running really hot. The temp gauge is showing normal, but the motor feels extremely warm and takes an unusual amount of time to cool down. It's also had some irregular shift patterns for quite awhile now where the OD off light starts flashing and it feels like it kicks it out of OD. I blew out the fuel filter and the gas coming from the pump looked really dirty, so I dropped the tank and put a new strainer on the pump but I didn't replace the pump for financial reasons. It has a new TPS, new ECT sensor. I swapped my buddies MAF sensor & IAC motor the other day and started up and did the same thing. It does NOT have a check engine light. There has also been an intermittent rattle coming from either the muffler or the exhaust pipe behind the muffler. Normally it only does it at idle, and it doesn't do it all the time. Is there a way to check to see if the muffler is clogged or the cats? If it were the cats, why would the exhaust rattle behind the muffler? I feel like something is getting hot and causing it to shut off, but I'm not sure what. Any ideas? Throttle body not opening up when it gets hot? EGR valve? Is there a way to check EGR valve? Could the fuel pump be loosing pressure after heating up? I'm lost and don't have money to keep throwing at this thing

 

[donalds]

Start by checking your fuel pressure
Sounds to me like you are running lean lack of fuel classic symptoms
Plenty of threads on the forum to give you instructions

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Start by checking your fuel pressure
Sounds to me like you are running lean lack of fuel classic symptoms
Plenty of threads on the forum to give you instructions

^^^ditto

 

[drdoom]

You definitely want to get it on a good scantool ASAP, and with the O/D OFF light flashing, don't keep driving it. Ask me how I know.
The transmission is going into "LIMP HOME" mode. This raises the internal pressures to get you off the road, it's not meant to keep driving that way.
Best Wishes,
Doc

 

[drdoom]

What you describe as far as the shift points, losing overdrive, that points directly and empirically to a TCC (torque converter clutch) fault.
Wild guess would be code P0741...

 

[drdoom]

P0741 can be devious to resolve, imo due to the somewhat complex command hierarchy. At 220,000 miles your truck is well beyond the typical service life of the F57 torque converter.
Stator seal is another weak point. Solenoids, meh imo not so much, special test equipment is needed to diagnose these, as they are PWM (pulse width modulation). Valve body, that can be suspect as well, and special tools are used for testing the hydraulic integrity of the VB.
Regardless, when TCC faults arise, overheating and eventual fragmentation spell disaster for an automatic transmission, as the entire hydraulic system becomes contaminated via the fluid.
YMMV

 

[410Fortune]

Runs till it gets hot
Engine running hot
no re start until it cools

Classic failing fuel pump
New strainer is not going to fix a weak pump
Bosch fuel pump is like $50-75 online

99 SOHC has a Schrader valve, you must test fuel pressure
Pressure must be around 62psi (+/- 8 psi)

When the pump gets weak (hot) fuel delivery suffers and you will get strange shifting, the truck will run lean which can cause the engine to run hot.............keeps getting worse until shutdown. No restart until the fuel pump cools down again

I would check fuel pressure cold, check when hot. Fix the fuel pump issue first and I bet the other issues go away