Differentials...again and again...

[cdsl227]

I know this has been beat up time and time again, but...I did the research and found my Explorer is basically a piece of ****! But I love her just the same...

So, I'm going to put either the PowerTrax No-Slip or Lock-Right into the rear for sure...and maybe the front if anyone has done it...or what I'm looking for is some advice.

I have a 3" body lift, and 31x10.50s.
I'm putting in the SuperLift 4" Suspension Lift and I'm hoping to get 35x12.50s under there.

Any thoughts on the PowerTrax? Which one if anybody has the system installed? I have the Open Differential Axle Code = 45, I take it the front diffy is Open, but can I put the PowerTrax up front also or will it bind?

Any suggestions on the tire sizes for the lift and retooling of the diffs would e appreciated.

-Chris

 

[Jason_25]

Go with the powertrax definitely. It's very strong and the only complaint I have is the added backlash to the driveline.

For the front end, you can do it, but say goodbye to everything in your front end a year from now.
35's+locker+ifs=destruction

Also, you're going to need to disable your 4-auto before you do the front locker.

 

[JDraper]

I'll echo Jason on the Powertrax No-Slip. Worth every penny offroad. It does give you a little more play in the driveline, but that is a minor issue. The performance off road is immesurably better. One of the hills at Paragon that I could only get 1/3 of the way up without it, became relatively easy to climb with it in.

If you don't mind a noisy drivetrain (clunks, pops, etc.), I'd go with the Powertrax Lock-Right. It's significantly cheaper to purchase ($250 vs. $410 for the 8.8). The offroad performance is the same as the No-Slip, but it doesn't have as nice manners on paved roads.

 

[cdsl227]

?? destroyed frontend?

I understand the 35s with the additional backspacing to clear them adds stress to the bearings and all, but the PowerTrax is just a better differential from what I've read...

It allows for the wheels to spin independently if needed. It's not actually a locker...just a more powerful differential...is that fair to say?

Does anybody have a limited slip or PowerTrax up front???

Oh, and I just had an HID conversion put in! I got the HID-II which is the 8000K bulb, only problem is I kinda liked having the Hi-Low Beam, now I only got one.

I got tired of changing the add-on harness for the 80/100 watt simulated bulbs...besides the fact that I had to put epoxy on the tops of the lenses because the high wattage bulbs heated it to the point of causing a crack.

But on the PowerTrax I'd appreciate the input, I can live with a little noise from the back (pops and clunking) as long as it's not too bad...

Thanks!

 

[Jason_25]

The powertrax is not really a differential. It is a locker. It doesn't make your frontend any weaker or any stronger. With 35's and a front locker you're putting too much stress on your hub assemblies, cv joints, and balljoints. They're just not made for that kind of leverage being put on them. That's not to say that you won't have any fun, it's just that you should expect to have to start replacing front end parts regularly if you do any wheeling.

 

[taxx]

The No-Slip is great!

But I must agree with Jason, unless it is 99% offroad or dirt road, I wouldn't put one in the front. it has been done, but not long enough ago to see the ill effects. The way your frontend works is everything is connected, both wheels are connected. Driveshaft always spins...blah blah blah. The powertrax is a true locker. It has teeth that very much bind together. Yes they dissengage, but I have and many others with these experienced that it doesn't always disengage when you want it too. You might be ok you might not. But runny 35s is already pushing that D-35 up front and the rest of the components, so I wouldn't press my luck. If you are that serious, take the money for the superlift and do a solid axle up front with manual hubs then you won't have to worry anout it.

 

[cdsl227]

I thought a solid axle up front was near impossible for a 2001 XLT IFS...

There's no room underneath for the axle...that also means goind to leafs up front, correct?

But, gee...it'd be a nice lift...going high enough for the solid axle...

I think that's just a tad more than I wanna go!

So in a AWD with the Dana 35 (and it's a kind of a Dana 35, kinda somethin else, right?) what's the options to get away from the Open Diffy that only puts power to one wheel.

I was in Flodia not long ago and tried to get up a tiny little embankment in the sand...I'm talking "tiny", and the damn thing dug straight down, the only wheel spinning was the front passenger...I mean c'mon...

There's gotta be some limited slip options or something short of a straight up locker for the front...anything to get power to both as opposed to one wheel...

If I was smart enough to do the research before I bought this thing I mighta been looking for something with real 4 wheel drive.

And this thing is supposed to be full-time AWD, I just didn't know AWD meant 2 wheels- one in the front one in the back!

The thing that swayed me toward the Explorer is that they almost run forever...I love the truck I just want to get more out of it...hopefully before we get real snow up here...

Thanks!

 

[Jason_25]

Ah yours is a V8 model........

First thing I would do in that case would be put a real "locking" transfer case in before i did any of those other mods.

 

[cdsl227]

Is there such a thing for the V8 XLT??

And it's automatic, and...everytime I think of doing something to it...I get killed because for all the options for other Explorers- the 2001 XLT/V8/AWD is like the low dog of the pack- it just seems like there's nothing you can do with it without going through major grief...

I mean a locking transfer case sounds great then I could drop from AWD to 2x4 or even 4x4, but it's the overall work and locating parts, because trust me in NY there isn't a single shop that knows or wants to do any suspension or drivetrain modifications...

 

[Jason_25]

I'm not exactly sure what is involved, but I know Advance adpaters makes an adapter to mate the V8 tranny to any one of the V6 family of transfercases (4405, 1354). If you call them up, they would be glad to help you out. It's a bit pricey in the 400 dollar range, but well worth it considering your traction is GREATLY increased. Doing that, in addition to a rear locker will probably make you question if you even need a front locker or 35" tires. There will be a major improvement.

 

[cdsl227]

Rather than go that route, because trust me given enough time (to think and get the loot together) I'd probably go for it, but I'd just like to get as much traction out of the front as possible, but the PowerTrax is definitely going into the rear.

I gotta go to Jersey to get it done though.

Oh, the 35s are kinda dual function...combined with the 3" BL, 4" Suspension lift, add another what maybe 3" overall gain from 31s to 35s- I'll be able to look down at some of the Expeditions running around...besides I want the clearance underneath.

I plan on getting something to get rid of the stock bumpers...for some kind of trail worthy swap.

I've seen a few Explorers on here with 35s and they do look sweet...

I really want it to be up there a bit...cause damn these trucks look good on big tires!

End goal is to make it reliable enough for running a trail so when I get around to it next summer I can feel good about doing it.

 

[JDraper]

Depending upon how wild you wanna get offroad, the Powertrax in the back may be enough. I'd start with that and run it off road for a while and see how you like it. It really does make a night and day difference.

To run the size tire you want, you're also probably gonna have to re-gear the axles. I don't know what the stock AWD X's have for gears, but I'll be they are 3.55's or 3.88's at most. You'll be able to run 31's on those gears (I run 31's on 3.55's), but anything larger should be re-geared to gain your torque back and ease the strain on the axles.

 

[cdsl227]

According to what the Axle Code is...45, it's 3.50 Open Diff in the rear I assume the front is same-same.

I know there's a few guys on here that I've been looking at their X's with the 35s and they don't seem to have any stress problems, but you never know each X is unique.

I don't plan on getting too hairy with it, but I would like to be virtually unstopable.

I'm definitely very hard on it in the street and here in Brooklyn, NY driving in the streets is practically like riding off road!

I know I'll have to regear- I was thinking when I have the PowerTrax installed I guess...they could do it then. I'll admit I don't know enough about what has to be changed inside the rear to regear it, but if the shop can do the PowerTrax install they should be able to do it all...I hope. I just would have preferred to get front and rear done at the same time rather than regear the rear install the PowerTrax and regear the front and leave it Open, but if that's how it has to be done for now...I'll take your word for the night and day...I'm sure it is.

I'm gonna do the rear (PowerTrax and gearing front/rear), run it for a while and hope something more plausible comes out for the front...

I'm going to keep researching it and ALL the input is welcome...I bought this truck because I think they're the best on the road even though I get pissed everytime I want to modify it and find out things aren't quite what they seem.

The 35s are a definite as long as it's minimal shaving in the front tupperware only, how the hell I'm gonna get the back spacing right is another story...input on that's welcome also.

 

[taxx]

I understand your sceptiscism. I was too about the locker in the begining. But believe these guys it is night and day.

What rear spacing are you talking about?

 

[cdsl227]

I'm under the assumption that when I get rims for the 35s I'll need to get them with the right backspacing so they don't rub on the front sway bar, frame...stuf like that...I have 31x10.50 Cooper ATs on there now, but I want to go to 35x12.50- looks good having a little meat showing from the side.

 

[cdsl227]

Just got the pricing for PowerTrax in the rear and regearing rear/front...

$2,000.00 to $2,500.00!!

That sounds kinda pricey considering the PowerTrax No-Slip is only about $500.00 - I think...

One place wouldn't even "touch" the Explorer...the only other place within about 100 miles wan't the 2K-2.5K.

D@MN!$!

Those numbers sound right for the install and regear front/rear to 4.10s???

Thanks!

 

[taxx]

Powertrax $400
Gears about $500

rest is labor. Some can get gears installed cheaper but I wouldn't pay over $500 for the gears (if I ever even paid that). But they already have to put spiders back in so it should only be another 1 hour labor to install the powertrax. But if you have any mechanical knowhow the powertrax is easy. Gearing is a different story.

Problem with the X is untill you've done it once or twice it takes forever to drop the front diff to work on it. You have to tear the front apart. I have done it numerous times and it still takes me min 45 minutes in a hurry to drop the diff. I would't want a shop doing it that quick unless I knew the mechanic.

 

[Robb]

Those numbers sound right for the install and regear front/rear to 4.10s???

If you are trying to fit 35s, forget the 4.10s and go with at least 4.56s.

And yes, anyway you do it, creating a 2nd Gen. X that performs well and has 35s under it, WILL be pricey.

Robb