Disable 4x4 on 2008 V6 4.0 | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Disable 4x4 on 2008 V6 4.0

I would care and fix what is wrong... until the vehicle becomes lower in value than a well maintained '07 which would still have over $5K resale value depending on *xyz* factors. Just sayin', Explorers sold well (in the US), aren't hard to get common parts for even if it's a junkyard providing them, so they're cheap.

That's your call to make but you shouldn't see a 1MPG, let alone more, fuel economy increase by preventing auto-4WD in normal driving conditions. You had something else wrong if the MPG increase is accurate.
Curious about what you believe are those other problems, I drive mostly city driving on the same road every day. On average from 3 tanks of gas, I got more mileage with the T-Case disabled. New transfer case, new fluid, near bearings, and seals.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





^ IDK, but it's low mileage unless very short tripping the vehicle, or of course a lot of idling while parked or in heavy traffic.

Might be misfires but too few to register a trouble code, or vac leak (look at long term fuel trims) or dirty upstream O2 sensors or MAF, or any number of things can cost some fuel economy, including oversized tires which not only provide more drag but also, result in actual miles traveled being higher than the odometer registers.

There really shouldn't be any MPG change from only disabling the T-C clutch, unless driving in situations where there is a very high % rate of traction loss. Look at high it's set up, you aren't removing any friction losses (or weight) by disabling it when it wouldn't have been doing anything to begin with.
 






^ IDK, but it's low mileage unless very short tripping the vehicle, or of course a lot of idling while parked or in heavy traffic.

Might be misfires but too few to register a trouble code, or vac leak (look at long term fuel trims) or dirty upstream O2 sensors or MAF, or any number of things can cost some fuel economy, including oversized tires which not only provide more drag but also, result in actual miles traveled being higher than the odometer registers.

There really shouldn't be any MPG change from only disabling the T-C clutch, unless driving in situations where there is a very high % rate of traction loss. Look at high it's set up, you aren't removing any friction losses (or weight) by disabling it when it wouldn't have been doing anything to begin with.
fuel trim bank 1 short term -95, o2 fuel trim bank 1 sensor 2 +99.2. No check engine light ever for this. Only smells rich on start up for about 5 seconds, occasionally hard starts and need to prime fuel before starting for a quick start. I’ve applied MAF cleaner when I bought it as general maintenance. I do have larger tires 265-65-17. I’ve also been curious about my milage, never seemed right. I’ve reset the computer before when I cleaned my throttle body when doing so on a full tank of gas the car estimates about 350 miles till empty, after driving for a few weeks it went down to about 225 mte on a full tank. Brand new coils and plugs. What’s your typical milage? On highway I’ve been able to manage up to 24mpg if I’m being really polite I can squeeze 28.
 






^ I typically get around 12MPG, but it's 90% short trips where the engine never even got warmed up good.
 






Not true, no Advanced track issues, no ABS light, No CEL.

No idea about your car.mine get the warnings unless the switch is connected thru 4 pin relay
 






I did this one
Pressed 4hi button and cutted the wire. Easy, works.
Now only rwd
 






Back
Top