do i replace a water pump that is not failing

[jmops]

Put it like this my 06 4.0 Merc i got because of timing chain issue. I replaced everything from that point out and havent had any issues with the truck in almost 100k aside from a FP sensor. Drives like a new truck and is driven daily. And use Motorcraft oil only IMO.

If you replace it, get a good one per the recommendations on here. A couple cars back I had a similar situation - new radiator etc - and changed the WP but saved the old one in the box. A year or 2 later the new (NAPA) one failed and I put the old one back in to get going in an emergency. When I took the "new" one back the NAPA guy checked it real careful and then gave me another new one. I kept it on the shelf and never needed it. The original one soldiered on while I still owned the car. I'd make the same choice again if I have the front of the engine opened up but I wouldn't just toss out that old, good one. JMHO.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

If you’re going to change the pump you’re supposed to change the timing cover seal as well because it will start to leak soon after (from what I’ve been told). That poses a problem because when you pull the timing cover off you expose the oil pan seal and it could tear that seal. If it does tear you’re supposed to cut through the rubber and steel gasket and cut to size a cork gasket using RTV to seal it all back up. Mine leaked a little afterwards and long story short I ended up replacing the engine anyway (cracked heads in the end).

Anyway, it’s a tough call to know what to replace and what not to touch. Even though you might be back in there in a year or whenever to replace your water pump if you don’t do it now, you’re gonna guarantee yourself a different problem sooner or later. It’s hard to say this but I would wait for the pump to go bad. The truth of it is, it isn’t hard to do all those repairs, it’s a little tricky at points but you just need to take your time. Reason I didn’t like doing it that way was because I didn’t trust the makeshift seal at the front of the oil pan. I guess it’s better to deal with a few drops of oil versus a broken water pump but that’s my 2 cents worth.
If you do decide to replace it here is the video for it...

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Also there aren’t any good stud sets out there so be careful when you’re removing your old ones. Make a jig out of cardboard so you know exactly where those bolts go, they’re almost all different sizes and have to go back in their right place. If you break the head off of it hang onto the bolt one you get it out so you can get the right length to replace it. I was lucky and none of the bolts were rusted in place.

 

[Stevesnvb]

ive got the radiator, fan , front bumper and whellhouses out of my 2000 explorer xlt 5.0, bought it new. 205k miles. engine burns clean. havea few questions since i can get to the front of the motor now. (im replacing all hoses, belts lines and a few other things to make it relaible for a 1000 mile trip

if your water pump isn't failing and its age is unknown, would you replace it?
there is some kind of wierd looking switch inside of left frt wheelhouse near core support. has a few vacuem lines and an electrical cable. what is, what does it do? when it is not functioning right, how does the engine perform? Mine has an idle which does not maintain a constant rpm.
Is the EGR a ***** to replace, will it most likely break? any tips? seems its near the firewall all tucked back.
passenger side exhaust manifold. how likely to snap a bolt off in the head if i try to replace it?
thanks
david

I vote for replacing the water pump and timing chain. Once you have gone that far it's a given, if the timing chain and water pump are of unknown age (especially the chain and you aren't on a tight budget) do it all and your looking at another 150k before you have to worry again...

 

[BUXTER]

Yup... do Timing Cover for sure or u will be pulling everything back out.

 

[Justinwht]

Cleaning the MAF sensor - Friend has '99 Explorer and used carb cleaner. Now he's getting lean/rich codes. I warned him to use only MAF cleaner as to not contaminate the sensor.

Replacing my IAC valve next week. Idles at 100 RPM after starting up for a few minutes, happens about once a month.

 

[BobinRVA]

ive got the radiator, fan , front bumper and whellhouses out of my 2000 explorer xlt 5.0, bought it new. 205k miles. engine burns clean. havea few questions since i can get to the front of the motor now. (im replacing all hoses, belts lines and a few other things to make it relaible for a 1000 mile trip

if your water pump isn't failing and its age is unknown, would you replace it?
there is some kind of wierd looking switch inside of left frt wheelhouse near core support. has a few vacuem lines and an electrical cable. what is, what does it do? when it is not functioning right, how does the engine perform? Mine has an idle which does not maintain a constant rpm.
Is the EGR a ***** to replace, will it most likely break? any tips? seems its near the firewall all tucked back.
passenger side exhaust manifold. how likely to snap a bolt off in the head if i try to replace it?
thanks
david

A new water pump is good insurance that it won't fail and take out the new radiator.

 

[fireftr]

ive got the radiator, fan , front bumper and whellhouses out of my 2000 explorer xlt 5.0, bought it new. 205k miles. engine burns clean. havea few questions since i can get to the front of the motor now. (im replacing all hoses, belts lines and a few other things to make it relaible for a 1000 mile trip

if your water pump isn't failing and its age is unknown, would you replace it?
there is some kind of wierd looking switch inside of left frt wheelhouse near core support. has a few vacuem lines and an electrical cable. what is, what does it do? when it is not functioning right, how does the engine perform? Mine has an idle which does not maintain a constant rpm.
Is the EGR a ***** to replace, will it most likely break? any tips? seems its near the firewall all tucked back.
passenger side exhaust manifold. how likely to snap a bolt off in the head if i try to replace it?
thanks
david

Definitely replace it if it’s the original, with that kind of mileage on it.
I’ve got an ‘05 4.6 w/210k on it.
Needed a radiator, so just replaced the pump while I had everything apart.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

Somthing i forgot to mention is go with a NEW pump not reman, on my 3.0 B3000 I got 2 remans that failed in little over 10000 miles one started squeaking (witch i thought was odd) and the other started leaking form the weep hole by the seal. This NEW new one has been on there at least 2 years now. To be fair the truck sees less driving now and less hard work now that i have the 5.0 X but still.
I see jmops pointed on this after i wrote this post

 

[c96drumm]

I understand the logic of replacing something when it's easier to get at, but based on experience, I lean more toward the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought. My 5.0 '96 has over 347K miles on it. The only parts attached to the actual engine that have been replaced are the spark plugs, thermostat, belts and hoses. I have on occasion, replaced parts for convenience and had a bad outcome. I don't do that anymore. In any case, after driving Fords for close to 40 years and I have no idea how many miles, I have replaced exactly ONE water pump, due to a slight drip out of the weep hole. YMMV.

 

[iwitzel]

ive got the radiator, fan , front bumper and whellhouses out of my 2000 explorer xlt 5.0, bought it new. 205k miles. engine burns clean. havea few questions since i can get to the front of the motor now. (im replacing all hoses, belts lines and a few other things to make it relaible for a 1000 mile trip

if your water pump isn't failing and its age is unknown, would you replace it?
there is some kind of wierd looking switch inside of left frt wheelhouse near core support. has a few vacuem lines and an electrical cable. what is, what does it do? when it is not functioning right, how does the engine perform? Mine has an idle which does not maintain a constant rpm.
Is the EGR a ***** to replace, will it most likely break? any tips? seems its near the firewall all tucked back.
passenger side exhaust manifold. how likely to snap a bolt off in the head if i try to replace it?
thanks
david

Replace it with a Ford pump and prep the surfaces well (clean!), BUT be very careful when removing AND installing the bolts as they break. Use PB blaster FIRST, inspect the old bolts, replace as needed due to corrosion, and watch the torque when installing

 

[Chris_A.]

I agree, if you can do it, now is the best time. I would do it just because of the bolt issues.

If you do the pump, do the timing chain and cover. You need to replace the timing cover seal at the same time to prevent the leaks that happen at the water pump inlet and outlet if you replace the pump and not the timing cover seal you are still likely to leak. This is because some of the hardware is shared to hold them on. And when you "break the torque" you replace the seals.

A way to look at it is - I can do it now, or I can wait. If I wait, how much will it cost later?

This cover came off a non-leaking Explorer. Note the corrosion around the cover. It was just about to.... I broke 3 of the bolts trying to remove. The intake I lost 2 more. Good luck!

 

[fireftr]

I understand the logic of replacing something when it's easier to get at, but based on experience, I lean more toward the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought. My 5.0 '96 has over 347K miles on it. The only parts attached to the actual engine that have been replaced are the spark plugs, thermostat, belts and hoses. I have on occasion, replaced parts for convenience and had a bad outcome. I don't do that anymore. In any case, after driving Fords for close to 40 years and I have no idea how many miles, I have replaced exactly ONE water pump, due to a slight drip out of the weep hole. YMMV.

Lucky man!

 

[c96drumm]

Lucky man!

Yep, this '96 has been something special.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

Yep, this '96 has been something special.

Teach me the way water pump god!

 

[c96drumm]

Teach me the way water pump god!

Had so much bad luck with an '89 E-150 (only Ford I ever needed to change the water pump on) that this '96 Explorer balances that out! Also, I changed more than my share of water pumps back when I drove Chevrolets. Last one of those I had was an '82. Maybe they're better now, I don't know.

 

[eaganexlorerhz]

Thanks all for your help. I decided to ride the two horses that brought me this far due to the inherent risks. Small problem, I didn't take a picture of the coolant papa's hoses. Can anyone help me out?
Also two other items. I broke a clip off what appears to be a vacuem line. This is the mating item. Difficult for me to trace. Runs under left head, towards back of engine. The fitting appears to be integral to a formed line. Is there a fix for this?

ive got the radiator, fan , front bumper and whellhouses out of my 2000 explorer xlt 5.0, bought it new. 205k miles. engine burns clean. havea few questions since i can get to the front of the motor now. (im replacing all hoses, belts lines and a few other things to make it relaible for a 1000 mile trip

if your water pump isn't failing and its age is unknown, would you replace it?
there is some kind of wierd looking switch inside of left frt wheelhouse near core support. has a few vacuem lines and an electrical cable. what is, what does it do? when it is not functioning right, how does the engine perform? Mine has an idle which does not maintain a constant rpm.
Is the EGR a ***** to replace, will it most likely break? any tips? seems its near the firewall all tucked back.
passenger side exhaust manifold. how likely to snap a bolt off in the head if i try to replace it?
thanks
david

S

 

[Chris_A.]

Looks like EVAP. Check to verify (Should smell some fuel fumes. Goes to EVAP valve under battery.). If this went to EVAP, it is the tank side of the EVAP valve and you will have a code. Best guess would be to verify both ends and add a small piece of hose with clamps from one to the other. The EVAP line runs all the way to the back where the charcoal canisters are mounted above the spare tire.
The pictures are the bottom and top view of the EVAP lines at the valve.

Not following on the coolant issue.

 

[eaganexlorerhz]

thanks Chris. I sort of understand. the other end of 1 hose connects to a valve of some sort which is located under drivers wheelhouse. the other hose from this valve has two ends. one end plugs directly into the intake manifold (the clip broke removing, servicable?) another piece of the puzzle is a hose which connects directly into the intake manifold. Ive attached pictures. Does anyone source these lines other than Ford? One line is plastic tubing, the integral clip which holds the fitting on is broke. Can the fitting itself be serviced? There is a canister mounted on the passenger side wheelhouse in the engine bay. One of the lines to this has been broken for some time. how do i test the caonister? Finally there is a hose which is bad where the oil fill tube is located. The 3" dia rubber sleeve and the hose which has a connection at the end that plugs into air intake. what is that hose and are these parts sourceable(I dont know what to call them). thanks for your help!

I understand the logic of replacing something when it's easier to get at, but based on experience, I lean more toward the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought. My 5.0 '96 has over 347K miles on it. The only parts attached to the actual engine that have been replaced are the spark plugs, thermostat, belts and hoses. I have on occasion, replaced parts for convenience and had a bad outcome. I don't do that anymore. In any case, after driving Fords for close to 40 years and I have no idea how many miles, I have replaced exactly ONE water pump, due to a slight drip out of the weep hole. YMMV.

thanks fpr the feedback. it supports my decision not replace parts manufactured 205k mikes ago with the junk out there today

 

[Chris_A.]

thanks Chris. I sort of understand. the other end of 1 hose connects to a valve of some sort which is located under drivers wheelhouse.

EVAP Valve.

the other hose from this valve has two ends. one end plugs directly into the intake manifold (the clip broke removing, servicable?)

Try a fuel "duck bill" clip if the end is otherwise intact. If it does not work, salvage or splice.

another piece of the puzzle is a hose which connects directly into the intake manifold. Ive attached pictures.

?

Does anyone source these lines other than Ford?

Salvage, EBay?

One line is plastic tubing, the integral clip which holds the fitting on is broke.

Picture? Not tracking.

Can the fitting itself be serviced?

Salvage or splice.

There is a canister mounted on the passenger side wheelhouse in the engine bay. One of the lines to this has been broken for some time. how do i test the caonister?

Is this the vaccum reservoir? Symptoms would be mostly in the climate control system.

Finally there is a hose which is bad where the oil fill tube is located.

The oil fill or the PCV? Oil fill, just use a piece of radiator hose. The line that comes off the side is PCV. If it is bad a regular piece of hose will fix.

The 3" dia rubber sleeve and the hose which has a connection at the end that plugs into air intake. what is that hose and are these parts sourceable(I dont know what to call them). thanks for your help!

Salvage or hose and clamps are the options. Ford has discontinued most of the parts. As far as I know, aftermarket parts for the lines are nonexistent.

As far as testing the canister, vaccum, splice the lines. If it is not complaining and you do not have any discrepancies, I wouldn't worry. Just splice the damaged line and reassemble. The tests are run with the system together and engine functional. The vaccum can can be tested separately; but, you need a vaccum pump (testing type) to do it.