Door Ajar coupled with lights

[SVT_Lewis]

First off, if this is the incorrect place for this, please move it.

Now, to the reason I made the account/post, I just bought an 02 Explorer XLS not too long ago from a private party. It was a good deal, had 200k miles and fairly clean inside and out. On the initial look/test drive/buy, only things I was able to notice were the worn out upper ball joints, leaking valve covers, wheel bearings, and a slight erratic shift points. Nothing else happened and I was surprised so I bought it.

Since then (January 18), I have replace the valve cover gaskets (pain in the arse), intake gaskets, plugs, wires, coil, few vacuum hoses, brakes all around, upper joints, and bearings. I have also had to replace the TCS in the 5R55W to help the shifting out a little - incorrect 5th gear ratio kept throwing code, it's not illuminated anymore, knock on wood it stays that way.

But anyway, back on track.

I haven't driven it much, in fact yesterday was the only time I have driven it after all the work. I noticed I could hit a fairly small and get a ding for the Door Ajar. It kept happening as I would hit bumps or brake at an instant. Dome lights would light up, locks would lock/unlock, etc. I've tried to chase down what I could but the weather isn't working with me here and my two other cars do not come out of my shop for any reason in the winter months.

I can't find a TSB or any kind of previous thread with a situation like this. If there is anyone that could shed some light on a possible fix or where to track down, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.



Lewis.

 

[rocco123]

Plenty of posts and solutions on door ajar in this site. Personally, mine was a bad switch at the door latch and another was just the switch being sloppy in the door latch that made it intermittent.

 

[SVT_Lewis]

Plenty of posts and solutions on door ajar in this site. Personally, mine was a bad switch at the door latch and another was just the switch being sloppy in the door latch that made it intermittent.

I should have mentioned I checked eat switch in each door. All correct voltage/ohms, everything met correctly to spec. All of that checked out.

One thing I did notice this morning after looking over, was the secondary latch for the rear gate. It all met and did as it should, but seems a little loose at the hinges. I had to stop looking it over and get back to work. It just didn't seem as if it were my problem.

 

[rocco123]

Although I haven't had any problems with it...yet, you may have a wiring issue at the door hinge. My intermittent was at my pass door as the switch mounts to the door latch assy. Was so sloppy it would make and break if I moved it. Secured in place with safety wire so it wouldn't move and has been good since. My driver side switch pushed apart, most likely from the switch plunger being so stiff. Switches are available btw. Not always easy to identify which switch it is. You can run a jumper for each switch at the connector so it will think that door is always closed and run a while in each door position to see which one makes the problem go away.

 

[BigRondo]

Welcome aboard!!

I'll post up some good info when I get home tonight!!

 

[BigRondo]

I had similar electrical issues with my '02 XLT. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, the alarm would beep twice when I armed it. Recently all 4 windows stopped working. Most recently the driver door lock actuator stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 3 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ. I had to repair the pink/black wire to fix the driver door lock actuator.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Unfortunately the pictures are no longer available in the above thread. IIRC, I believe I unwrapped the wires enough to gain access. When I have gone searching in there I had an idea of what wire I was looking for. I located the the wire I was looking for and gently tugged on that wire on the door side. The wire was pulled toward me and out of the harness. I then went inside the vehicle and gently tugged on the the wire I was looking for and was able to pull it inside the vehicle. I then spliced a length of wire to the 2 ends, completing the circuit. I then gently pulled the excess into the door.

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

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Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253

That is a great write up.

On a side note, before going through a complete replacement of the switch, you can spray WD40 into the door latch opening on each door, as these become stuck sometimes....and this can alleviate the issue.

This worked for me, after going for more than a year of the "door ajar" light coming on occasionally...mainly after a car wash, high humidity, or rain....making me unable to lock/arm the vehicle from the door keypad and keeping the dome lights on. Worth a try....it worked for me

The red arrows show you where to spray:

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Good luck getting it sorted.

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!

 

[SVT_Lewis]

Appreciate the input, guys.

I was able to get a little deeper into the problem yesterday. I did get the time to remove the driver door panel and check the normal spot under the rubber boot. Each led me with nothing. All wires were as they should be.

I finally got tired of it and put one of my cars in my enclosed for the night and put it in it's place for today and will be removing all panels and either just unplugging the sensors or replacing them. Need to do some calling around on an aftermarket piece if they are offered. Being Sunday, of course, Ford isn't open and I really do not have the time to wait it out.

i will be posting back within a few hours with anything else I find or come up with

 

[SVT_Lewis]

Checking back in:

I removed all door panels including the lift gate. Everything was tight, no slop or anything in them as far as clips holding them in or anything of the nature, that I could see or feel at least.

I chalked it up as a loss and reinstalled everything.

Then, this morning, I was driving my fiance to work (Our new Nissan is on the lift for new brakes/tires) and she decided to roll her window down (it's 5*... no thanks), but when she did, the "door ajar" went off. Rolled it back up and down a few times, sure enough it went off each time it was rolled down. Checked my window, did the same. Checked the two rear windows, got nothing.

I had opened the sunroof because it got annoying and she kept saying it was too hot. After a little bit, the door ajar would go off while the sunroof was vented. I closed it and vented it again, boom. Came back on. What would cause the sunroof to enable the door ajar warning in this case? It definitely should not come on with the use of the sunroof.

I need to say, nothing else is bothered by it. All locks, windows, lights, etc work as they should. It is ONLY the door ajar warning that is coming on or messed up. My exterior lights when lock/unlock from keyfob do not illuminate, nor have they since I picked it up but I don't see that being a problem.

I am about to order a few switches at which I believe are the F-Driver, F-Pass, and rear tailgate sensors but will be calling my guy (Steve @ Tasca Ford to get those confirmed and ordered).

 

[rocco123]

What if u bypass the 2 front switches at their respective connectors. Both switches at door lock actuators. When u short that switch connector the car sees the dor as closed. I do not see why the moonroof has any bearing on the door ajar, but will take a look at my factory wiring manual. The puddle lights should come on when u remote unlock the front doors.

 

[rocco123]

Lewis, all of those switches are seeking th eir respective grounds. Could be bad ground at the central security module, or maybe bad common ground shared by both rear doors (or break in a rear aux junction box p88). Junction is in right D pillar. Most likely one or more bad door switches though. They all are seeking a gound.my info from 2002 explorer wiring diagram manual.

 

[rocco123]

I don't see how door ajar in any way ties into the moon roof (roof opening panel as ford calls it). All of the door ajar switches go to the central security module, including liftgate, LG glass, and hood antithetical switch. message me and maybe I can share schematic

 

[SVT_Lewis]

Sending a pm as soon as I finish a response.

I went over as much as I could as far as grounds, I could re-do them, which I might end up doing if these new switches do not work (They should arrive Wednesday). I probably won't get a chance to install them until next Sunday which will be one of our warmer days.

Oddly enough, a few days ago it would NOT stop going off. There are times where I will start it in the morning, drive to work, go to lunch, then come home without any sound/door lock initiation or anything. It would sit for 3-4 hours before I have to go do something and when I hope in and leave and it will go CRAZY. Well, I got extremely aggravated and decided to just slam each door. Well, it's been quiet ever since aside from a few times it will go off.

Which leads me to believe there is clearly a grounding issue or even a possible connector at the harness is loose, not allowing it to secure itself completely - this wasn't a problem when I had everything apart looking over everything.

I had done a quick test again for the sunroof and windows and the sunroof didn't bother it this time. However, both driver and passenger front windows did using my master switch and passenger single switch.

 

[rocco123]

I sent you a pm requesting contact info for schmatic

 

[Jobe]

Ive had problems several times over the years with mine. A quick spray down on all the switches with WD 40 always corrects the problem for me. Seems to come back every 3 or 4 years. Interesting about the windows causing it. If you are driving maybe the pressure change inside the vehicle by opening the window is causing a little play in one of your doors or rear window to move a little. I would look for a worn or sticky switch also make sure your doors are closing tight