Door Buttons Don't Work After Installing Aftermarket Keyless Entry

[Optimus Joe]

I picked up a Ficobox keyless entry system from Amazon. (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HB5M5R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) They get pretty good reviews and it is a basic no nonsense keyless entry system. My '96 Sport has power windows and locks, but did not come with a keyless entry remotes.

I was able to find the wiring in the driver's side kickpanel for the power lock and unlock. Using wire splice connectors (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LB428SC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), I hooked the system up, powered it on and it works great with the remotes. Now the problem is the buttons on the doors no longer work. It does not seem to matter if the keyless entry system is powered on or not, I am not able to get the buttons to work. I removed power to the keyless entry system and the buttons still do not work. I checked the wiring and the area I spliced looks good and is connected.

Any ideas why I am having this issue?

 

[massacre]

I never use those T taps. I find that they corrode easily and don’t really work that well.
Again, this is just in my experience, in certain vehicles and living in a cold and salty climate.
A test light will let you know if you have power at the switch or not.

Several companies make heat shrink and crimp butt connectors with one side bigger than the other. When I need to take power from a wire, I cut and strip both ends of the wire, then add the additional wire, stripped and twist the 2 wires together and install in the bigger end, and put the original power power wire to the small end.
Then crimp both sides and then melt the heat shrink.
Again a test light or multimeter will tell you know if you have a good connection and power in all the right places.

Here is a pic of what I am talking about from when I added heated mirrors

In this instance, I added 2 additional wires, and you can see that the brown and blue wire continues through the circuit to the defroster switch. So when the switch is turned on, it puts power to the rear defroster, but also puts power to each red wire to the heated mirrors.

Have found this method to be far superior to the scotch locks and t taps that often fail in my experience.

 

[Optimus Joe]

Do you think the problem is the connection after the splice? If that were the case, wouldn't that only impact the one door?

 

[massacre]

A test light should be able to tell you exactly where the problem is.
When I bought my current explorer someone had installed a cheap remote lock/unlock feature that was a huge pain in the ass, and it locked me out of the truck once too many times. So I know the wires you are talking about behind the kick panel. Someone had basically used the same method you did. I removed all of that stuff and just went to using a key to open the door.

I don’t know much about the keyless entry keypads, could you have blown a fuse somewhere?