Door lock rod rattles during bass | Ford Explorer Forums

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Door lock rod rattles during bass

beavis195

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 15, 2000
Messages
587
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City, State
Sammamish, WA and Provo, UT
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT 4 door
My door lock rod inside the door rattles a lot now? Anyone know how to tighten this in the front doors? It almost completely goes away when I lock the door, but it's still there. Thanks
 



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I wish that was my only problem.. my hatch door rattles, roof flexes, running boards rattle and lights dim when my bass is goin :P

my only guess would be that when its locked the rod is touching something that its not when its unlocked
 






I've noticed since I have been offroading that because of the frame flex, I have many many rattles. My advice? Turn up the radio because there isn't much I can do anymore...
 






I am at the point where everything <<RATTLES>> at least everything doesn't sound like crickets, that is the worst! As for the door locks try taking the panels off and look what you can tighten up, or i had a problem with my power windows rattling in my old car, i just wrapped what was rattling in electrical tape, not really ghetto but it worx.
 






I had smae problem really bad for my hatch lock! its was so loos it was practically hanging! sucha B*tch to bet the rear plastic off, tighten bolts with locktite and put everyhting back no more! I am now happy other than all the other stuff rattling.
 






Is there anyway to stop the rattles in your back hatch, and also a way to keep the lights from dimming when the bass hits?? What causes it exactly? I have read that the model "D" mono amps are more efficient and your lights wont dim but is this actually true? Let me know thanks

Slick
 






Im not the brightest when it comes to stereo stuff.. but I think any high output amp will dim your lights unless your run a "cap" in between your battery and your amp. I have a 200amp alt with a optimia battery and I still dim pretty bad... and thats only with about 500 watts. Im planning on getting a capacitor soon... I think they run around $100.

nick
 






caps don't always fix that.. I should know heh
 






Go to a high amp alternator (like stinger or something) More energy coming off the engine kinematics.
Cost: approx. 300-500

Get a Capacitor (0.5 farad will work) It basically stores energy and dispenses it during those deep base hits.
Cost: 100-175 installed

Maybe a deep cycle batter if you ever park you car and play some jams while playing softball or something.
Cost: 150 or so.

The capacitor is the most cost efficient and will probably suit your needs just fine. But the other two would really help in the future.

My .02 on how to spend your $750.
Karl
 






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