Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport

[Creager]

noticed on your elite registry: 5) Moly Ductile rings & .010 undersized bearings (Cleivte 77/Perfect Circle)

whats with the .010 undersized? i dont get why or even how you couldput smaller bearings in..

Well, usually you want to resurface the crank-shaft so you have a fresh surface for your bearings. Kind of like replaceing the races for your wheel bearings. Although here, you have the crank grinded smaller, so in retrospec you bearings are made to be 'undersized,' so they still fit your rods, and the newer size crank.

 

[inh]

Ah gotcha. same as boring .010 over, just in this case you use smaller bearings. cool, had me worried for a sec.

 

[Creager]

haha yeah, bascially. Im wondering if i even need to undersize it. I guess ill find out soon enough. Im wondering if they can just 'hone' the crank simular to how the hone the cylinders so i can use standard sized bearings with fresh surfaces. But if there is such a thing and its not any cheaper, i guess it doesnt matter, i'd just undersize it.

 

[inh]

uh oh, smaller crank bearing surfaces = weaker. and its in a ford. spells trouble

I would just have it done if it needs it. cant imagine its that expensive to do anyways.

 

[fordman5]

ok, I vote automatic ban on inh for saying a unkind word about fords...

all in favor?

 

[Creager]

haha, fordman, clear your private messages!

 

[Josh]

Because roller lifters are a HUGE improvement over solid.

And to the question of "what will a bit of dirt stuck in the lifter do they just go up and down"... Debris can stop the inner portion of the lifter from self adjusting to keep proper valve clearance. If you had solid roller lifters with adjustable rockerarms or pushrods you would have a higher performance setup, but you would have to do regular valve lash adjustments.

I was think solid rollers if there is such a thing.

 

[Josh]

Creager,
Dont forget to replace that crank pulley bolt. That 5 dollar bolt caused me to replace my radiator, crank pulley and crank sensor when it snapped off going down the road. I believe those bolts are similar to head bolts in that they are desinged to stretch a little when installed.

 

[fordman5]

haha, fordman, clear your private messages!

oh, sorry ill do it now

 

[Creager]

Creager,
Dont forget to replace that crank pulley bolt. That 5 dollar bolt caused me to replace my radiator, crank pulley and crank sensor when it snapped off going down the road. I believe those bolts are similar to head bolts in that they are desinged to stretch a little when installed.

Yeah i read that in the book last night

would it matter if i just put a regular bolt in there? or should i buy that special torque to yield bolt?


Are the fuel injectors nesseary to replace? clean?

 

[Josh]

I just used my old injectors. I didnt clean them or anything. I just made sure there was no buildup on the nozzles. I would use the ford bolt. You dont want that thing to snap off going down the road. When the bolt snapped on mine, the bolt head shot into the radiator and put a hole in it, the sleve on the pulley broke, the pulley flew into the crank sensor and killed it. I had to drill out the bolt in the crank then use an easy out to get it out. Not fun with the motor still in the truck.

 

[Creager]

Hey Maximum, or anyone, do you guys know if ARP 289/302 main bolts are the same thread size as the 4.0 TTY main bolts?

i dont have a good tape a die set at the momment, this might be a good reason to invest in one =)

 

[Creager]

Good thing I decided to tear into the bottom end... all my bearings are pretty much shod =) at least the rod bearings are. The main bearings are still in OK shape, but defiantly junk at this point. Nothing has spun though. I’m defiantly going to have to over-bore .010 over. I got some nice ridges down in the bottom of the cylinders. Gotta replace the pistons now, as I dropped two of them... hehe oooops. Hopefully I won’t have to do anything with the crank. Im ready to get this thing on the road!!

I’m at work now, so ill post some pictures later, and another little mini write up is worthy here. Bearing caps 3 and 4 can be kind of tricky to remove.

Speaking of which, does anyone know, or have access to a removal pattern of the bearing caps and crank? I was worried about warping the crank, so I made sure to remove all the bearing caps in a cross pattern, it’s just the Haynes manual has absolutely NOTHING on removing the crank. It also told me that replacing the cam bearings was 'out of the scope of a home mechanic,' and I shouldn’t even attempt to replace them myself.

 

[inh]

Thats because you need a special tool. Not sure if you can buy one, but specs for making one (not sure for what engine though...) are here:
http://www.aptfast.com/Flyer_HowTo_Dir/HowTo_Folder/Cam_Bearing_Install/Install_Cambearings.htm]

edited to change link to a better page

 

[Creager]

oo cool link. I guess ill get my machinst to do it, he doesnt charge a lot for most stuff anyway!

inh, when you do your rebuild, make sure you use FORD lower intake and valve cover gaskets. The lower intake from ford is metal and rubber, compared to straight cork. Also the cork valve cover gaskets are known to leak. Everything else you can use the Felpro cork. Im contemplating using ford head gaskets too... but i havent found where anyone has had any problems with them

I still gotta find out about these bolts hehe.

 

[inh]

yea i noticed that. my gaskets had to be ford ones. and i put on cork valve cover gaskets :X ah well shouldnt be long before i can get some funds and yankthe engine. just gotta fix my wiring issues first. thanks for the heads up

 

[EMG7895]

My service manual says nothing about a specific order to remove them, just says to mark them so that they get put back in the same place.

 

[inh]

ive heard of engines exploding from replacing the mains in the wrong spots..

 

[Creager]

The stockers actually come with numbers and arrows on them! no brainer there! Yah, i was expecting to grind little tick marks into them, nope! all marked for me from the factory.

Caps one and two are pretty much identical... cap three has a bearing on the side, or its bearing overlaps onto the side, and cap 4 holds the rear-main into place, maybe not hold, but it covers over it.

 

[Fordpwnzchevy]

just for the record smaller bearing surface=less friction