Dreaming of one mean 4.0: The Build up - Creager's 1992 Sport

[Creager]

Really? hrmm i havent heard that one... ive been wondering about rebuilt lifters, if they are decent enough for a new build. At this point though, im pretty sure im just going to have mine rebuilt.

The lifters cant be as bad as a lot of people make them out to be. Some say they are designed to only last 60k miles... i think people might be confusing the lifters with the rockerarms/pushrods. My lifters were the cleanest thing i pulled out the motor... im almost tempted to run my stockers without even rebuilding them... but that would defeat the purpouse haha =)

Doug904 used to sell his rebuilt lifters, i planned on simply buying his but i cant get ahold of the guy. Hes got a lot going on for him down there in AL at the momment... im sure rebuilding a set of lifters is the LAST thing on his mind after this past huricane season.

 

[inh]

This writeup, which im sure youve read, mentions the lifter, Dead Link Removed . specifically this: "The roller lifters are held perpendicular to the cam by a steel pin in the side of the lifter that slides up and down in the groove that’s machined in the side of the lifter bore. Having this pin in the side of the lifter required a special design that had an inner and an outer body, so there’s some space in between them that can trap a lot of debris. That makes it very difficult to get them clean, so they’re hard to rebuild, and that’s a real problem, because new lifters are very expensive."

heres a shot of what theyre talkin about: Dead Link Removed

 

[Creager]

Hrmm interesting…

I guess what ill do is soak them in kerosene for a couple days, so all the debris will be loosened up real good when I go to have them rebuilt; then all that crap will come out a little easier.

That makes sense to why they are so expensive.

But would having debris in there really be that detrimental? I mean, all the lifter has to do is go up and down... the roller does the hard work for it, is that inner shell really that crucial? Is it supposed to hold oil or something? Seems kinda silly to pay huge bucks ($500!!) for a part that’s practically still good, and doesn’t give any performance gains… just my philosophy.

I dunno, a new set of clevite lifters looks very intriguing, if it was only like 200 bucks.

Lifters for like a 302 are less then half the price.

 

[inh]

Yea, all new lifters are so damn expensive.... but for any other engine they're like ten cents a piece :x I was looking around for info on maybe rebuilding them myself, but I couldnt find anything... Im hoping mine are still good, even though i really want to put in new ones...

 

[Creager]

Here ya go man, $90 for a set of rebuilts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-0-...33614QQitemZ8045327233QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I was going to buy these myself (and still may if i dont get a good enough deal on rebuilding my current lifters)

Dont worry, this guy consistantly is selling these things. I've watched him for a couple months now, he always has a set up there.

 

[inh]

Nice! I get paid wednesday, definatly going to have to get those, as long as you dont want em. You get first dibs cuz you found em Besides i wont be ready for my rebuild for a little while.. All i have is the cam right now... Thanks again, definatly going to watch him.

 

[Creager]

Oh dont worry man, hes always got a set up there. If it doesnt sell it, he reposts it; if he sells it, he reposts it... hahah

 

[Josh]

Why not solid lifters? I don't think they make any for our motors though.

 

[Creager]

i think thats all dependent on how the motor (i guess mainly the cam) is designed. Im not sure if that is possible...

Did you ever get that injector problem figured out?

update: The engine compartment is 80% painted. I painted all the way around from behind the coolent resiviour, to the radiator support, to battery tray area, behind the blower motor/AC accumulator, to right next to the steering shaft. I took everything apart in 'sections' so it would be easier to put back togeather... in doing this, everything kinda got jumbled up in that one corrner, so once i get everything completely back togeather, ill go back and paint that section. hehe

1) unfortunalty im left with a single part which i cant figure out to where it belongs! I found it undernieth the AC/blower area, unattached to where ever it belonged. I figured it would be apart of A/C or heater, but it doesnt seem to match up with anything. Its a small hose about 6 inches long, in the shape of an L, the lower part of the 'L' is wider and appears to be the female end of whatever it goes to. Here is a picture...


anybody know where his home is?

 

[inh]

lookin good man. i cant wait to get my engine compartment all scrubbed down while the engine is out.

 

[410Fortune]

That little rubber thing looks like the vent for your heater blower motor.
Is the piece pictured 100% soft rubber?
Look harder, look on your blower motor itself, you can see it flows cool air to the motor body....I think

Nicely done.
My BII still looks great after doing a primer and rattle can job on it last March, the entire engine bay and frame..I also waxed all the painted surfaces

 

[Creager]

Yeah, your engine compartment job is what influenced me to do mine =) at first i was just like ahhh hell with it, but after seeing what you went through, i figured it was a challenge i was destined to conqure. i was kind of disapointed in the paint i used, the color matches almost perfectly with the body color, its just the paint is so picky! if you dont apply it perfectly all the way across, it creates grey and white spots. So bascially i cant touch up a single spot, i have to paint the WHOLE area, unless i want the edges and overspray areas to come out almost white looking.

Yes that peice is 100% soft rubber. So It belongs on the blower motor itself, hrmm, that should be enough info to figure it out. Does it attach to the firewall at all? Im pretty sure it went on the outside of the blower housing, but i might have been wrong. I havent actually 'bolted' that part back down yet so i can figure this out. Thanks again 410!

 

[inh]

Hey man, got a hot tip. Again as stated here: Dead Link Removed (theres also a copy of this up on therangerstation.com 's tech section) the rear seal on the crank is prone to leakage, and the microsleeve makes a kit to fix that. Well i planned on getting one for my truck regardless of price, as I thought it was a good idea. Found thier price list, and for abotu $10 its definatly cheap insurance. As for the installation tool, its $35 (keep in mind these prices are list, so you could probably get them cheaper) so for less than $50 you have a solid rear seal and you wont have to worry about it leaking.

Thought you might like to know about this. Heres the linkage:
Find your part number: http://www.microsleeve.com/pdf/MS_Catalog_4.05.pdf
Then find the install tool: http://www.microsleeve.com/instal.html
Then find your prices: http://www.microsleeve.com/pdf/Jobber_Prices_05.pdf

 

[410Fortune]

IF you go to the toyota dealer and get a tube of Toyota factory gasket maker (grey silicoln) you will never have intake or gasket leaks again.

Yes that part goes from the heater box plenum to the motor body itself. It defelcts fresh air into the motor for cooling, while keeping dirt, crap out. It is a press fit, they come off all the time. You will see it when you put the heater motor back in.

I had 4 major rust areas to address when I did my engine bay, yikes! That was time consuming!

 

[Creager]

im spoiled in the south... i had a dime size cancer spot on my driverside dog-leg, which i left open to the elements for about 4 years. It never actually grew any bigger. I finally got tired of looking at it, cut the sucker out, and filled it in with fiberglass. haha

I thought my rear main was leaking, but i found out it was actually my oil pan gasket. On either side of the rear main, the molded oil pan gasket is worn 'flat,' and has a few chunks taken out of it. I cant quite figure out what would cause that.

Im definatly going to check out that rear main sleeve. I think it was Jefe who stated that the area around the rear main is milled very slick, so the seal has a tough time actually sealing (to the smooth surface.) I figured i could rough it up, but im doing enough 'backyard' mechanics to this thing, i might aswell do one thing right! haha im kidding, but i definatly dont wanna take chances with a leaky rear main. Especially having a 5-speed, that would drive me NUTS... I'd be going through clutches like once a month.

Thanks for the info guys. i couldnt do much work this afternoon, school decided to get in the way. Freggin school is a slow-down, not sure why i went back. Haha im kidding, i never want to work behind a desk again, school is my one-way ticket out of the computer chair.

 

[dragoondave]

lifters

heyi might have missed it in following your thread but did you ever get a set of newer lifters i have a spare set out of a low mileage 98 4.0 i'd be willing to sell and a set of the 98 heads hell i have the whole motor i need out of my damn garage!!! if you need anything off of it or you know any one who does i'd be happy to part with some or all of it cheap ish before i recycle the damn thing as i think i'm just gonna get rid of my explorer the seats are starting to hurt my back since there so close to the floor if you need anything just pm or email me and i'll get back to you other wise i'll be foloowing your thread and good luck and if you need any expert ish advice i'd be glad to help!!
thanks
dave

 

[Creager]

Hey thanks for the offer dave, i appreciate the reply!

Im pretty sure that im going to rebuilt my current lifters, but i havent priced anything out so thats suject to change... i appericate the offer. INH is also in the market for a set of lifters, he too might be hitting ya up for some parts. Ill PM you if i need anything.

No updates for today, infact the day got off to a really bad start... so nothing has been accomplished. Hopefully i can get some of this school work out of the way, and i can get some work done on the shortblock.

 

[Creager]

So lets start taking bets on what kind of miles per gallon ill be getting after this whole thing is done =) haha

The smaller combustion chamber means less gas used right? haha maybe not...

my guess is 15-16 miles per gallon.

 

[inh]

Hmm.. i would say maybe more but the cam is gonna eat gas... then again, more power = better mileage. i guess only time will tell. id prolly say no worse than 14mpg, which is what i get now. be sure to let me know though cuz we have similar goals and setups

my truck is burning coolant bad now.. im gonna try and change the head gasket this weekend, which will let me get a sneak preview of my cylinders. hopefulyl the head isnt cracked :x

 

[Captain AirTime]

Hmm.. i would say maybe more but the cam is gonna eat gas... then again, more power = better mileage. i guess only time will tell. id prolly say no worse than 14mpg, which is what i get now. be sure to let me know though cuz we have similar goals and setups

Exploders are heavy pigs, and there's no getting around that. You're going to use lots of fuel to push it around, no matter how you burn it. If you drive teh same way (balls to the wall 90% of the time in my case) then your milage won't change with a different motor. I went from 2.0L carb to 2.3 turbo EFI, to a worked 2.3 turbo, to 5.0L in one of my rangers, and average stayed about the same, with an edge to the V8 in both overall and peak. Not enough to worry about tho, thats for sure. 14-16mpg is ballpark, pretty hard to vary from that if you drive it hard.