Driver side seatbelt buckle

[ThreeJs]

I am going to be replacing the driver side seatbelt buckle (female end with button won't stay latched) and was wondering if anyone knows what size the bolt is to remove it. I can't get a good look at it. Is it a torx? Chilton book say's it takes a "special tool".
I guess removing the driver side seat from the vehicle is the easiest way?

 

[koda2000]

I am going to be replacing the driver side seatbelt buckle (female end with button won't stay latched) and was wondering if anyone knows what size the bolt is to remove it. I can't get a good look at it. Is it a torx? Chilton book say's it takes a "special tool".
I guess removing the driver side seat from the vehicle is the easiest way?

i'm thinking it's probably a torx T50. how special could a seat belt bolt be?

 

[2steptalon]

They are Torx. In dont think you can get to it unless you remove the center console or remove the seat.

Have fun and here's a helpful thread

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198533

 

[koda2000]

removing the seat is easy (just 4 bolts) as long as they're not rusted in place. if they are rusted, you can clean the threads with a wire brush and spray them with penetrant from underneath. don't force them as they'll break off and then you'll have to drill them out. personally i'd remove the seat before the console.

 

[swshawaii]

Unless the buckle spring is broken, flush it thoroughly with WD-40 using the spray tube.
Amazing the amount of junk that comes out. Place a towel under it before you start. GL

 

[rb142]

It's not Torx, it's a Torx Plus. (That's the special bit mentioned.) That is very close, but has fatter lobes on the star. (TP50 or maybe TP45, I don't remember.) If you use a regular Torx bit, you might be able to get it out, but you run a good chance of stripping the head out doing it. It isn't hugely tight like some seat belt bolts, so you may be fine with a regular torx if that's all you have.

(Note that while a torx plus has six lobes like a torx, a security torx plus only has five lobes, unlike the security torx. It can be very confusing, so be careful.)

It is a very easy replacement. Unbolt the seat and flip it over. There is just the one bolt on the bottom holding the belt assembly and the wire harness. If you have the belt pretensioners, the replacements are expensive, and you need to be careful not to set off the pyro device. Disconnect the battery before you start and let it sit for at least a minute before you take anything apart. Then make sure it is all connected again before connecting the battery. If you don't have the belt pretensioner, then it is even easier.

Edit: Depending on your type of seat, it might be slightly different. Process should be the same. Unbolt the seat and you should have easy access.

 

[ThreeJs]

Thanks for the replies. Picked up a nice clean buckle at the local pic-a-part for $6 for my 96 EB Explorer.
I used a T50 torx for the buckle bolt. Just an FYI....I don't know what year it switched but the buckle and latch changed sizes. I found and easy access buckle part from a 2000 Explorer and removed it only to realize the latch part was way smaller. Much more narrow. The seat is a PITA when there isn't a battery in it to move the seat all the way forward to access the rear seat mount bolts (10mm).

 

[koda2000]

Thanks for the replies. Picked up a nice clean buckle at the local pic-a-part for $6 for my 96 EB Explorer.
I used a T50 torx for the buckle bolt. Just an FYI....I don't know what year it switched but the buckle and latch changed sizes. I found and easy access buckle part from a 2000 Explorer and removed it only to realize the latch part was way smaller. Much more narrow. The seat is a PITA when there isn't a battery in it to move the seat all the way forward to access the rear seat mount bolts (10mm).

i remember reading that a 9 volt radio battery has enough juice to get the seat to move. seems a bit hard to believe, but...

 

[bobflood]

A battery from a cordless power drill works quite nicely; just fab up a connector for the battery with a couple of fairly long wires and insulated alligator clips. Joe Dirt suggested this several years ago and I have used it a number of times. I'm with Koda - hard to believe a little 9V would move a seat - but I have never tried it. Good luck.

 

[koda2000]

A battery from a cordless power drill works quite nicely; just fab up a connector for the battery with a couple of fairly long wires and insulated alligator clips. Joe Dirt suggested this several years ago and I have used it a number of times. I'm with Koda - hard to believe a little 9V would move a seat - but I have never tried it. Good luck.

yeah, maybe it was an electric drill battery i'm remembering reading about. that would most certainly have enough power to run power seat motor.

 

[rockyfly]

Replace driver side seat belt latch ('95 XLT 4door)

Driver side seat belt latch stopped holding...spring appeared to be shot, would not stay connected. Several threads about removing seat/console, etc...here's how I did it, and it was really easy and fast (less than 30 minutes).

With power still on, moved seat back to expose two front 13mm seat bolts on floor...took 'em out. Now moved seat forward about half way to expose the two rear 13mm bolts (under plastic covers...pry them aft, from front to back, not sideways or up, to pop off). Took them out. Seat now loose enough to move an inch or two sideways, toward door, to give access to the Torxs bolt at the bottom of the seat belt unit itself. Now disconnect power lead, and use Torx T-50 bit on standard 3/8 drive ($1.97 plus tax at Home Depot). Go slow and easy...was in there tight...but came right out and the about 10 1/2" seat belt female unit is in your hand.

Hopefully you have already acquired a replacement, part number F57Z7861203D, only available in gray now. Several used ones on ebay; bluespringsfordparts.com had the best deal on a new one when I checked...lots of 'em available at various prices and condition. Not as cheap as they used to be, however (other prices in threads were from 2009 or so).

As I said, only around in gray now...my old one was green...but had no trouble sliding off the old green cover and replacing the gray one...now can't tell the difference at all.

Remount unit with the Torx bolt, reconnect the power lead, move seat back into position and remount rear seat bolts, slide it back to rear (you have power) and remount front ones. No taking the seat all the way out, no removing the center console, no dismounting the sliding bar the unit moves on, or any of that other stuff. Quick and easy...at least on this model.

Love this forum...it's saved me a lot of money over the years...

 

[Don43]

I have a 96 explorer - needed to switch seat belt (receiver side). bought the T50 torx ($5. at Advance Auto parts) removed four bolts on ea seat and the large T50 bolt. Took about hour and a half with trip to Advance ---I did this after checking the explorer forum. This forum not only tells you how to do your own repairs - it gives you the confidence to know you Can Do it. THANK YOU
DON

 

[Loboheeler]

Yep, unbolting the seat is the way to go to get to the buckles. Just slide it forward a few inches so it can tilt to the side enough to get to the Torx bolt. You only have to uncouple the electrical connector on the buckle, which I found to be the only tricky part. Being able to move the seat to remove the floor bolts is a problem with junkyard cars, so I just got a good used buckle online. Click!