Driveshaft bolts have defeated me! | Ford Explorer Forums

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Driveshaft bolts have defeated me!

Evan6ardner

Active Member
Joined
August 17, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Austin, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Sport Trac 2WD
So, I'm having trouble taking off 4 drive shaft bolts on my sport trac. I read on this forum about someone having similar problems, and many people recommended heat.

My big problem is that I can't fit any breaker bar or socket wrench over the bolt because the U-joint interferes with it fitting over the head. So, I'm down to just a 12pt 12mm wrench, and then I put a metal pipe over it, and use 1/2 of my hydraulic jack handle to create a 3' make-shift cheater bar. Because of the angle, even with full force applied, I end up hitting the truck before I can get anymore torque on it.

How long do you heat the bolt with a torch? I have a little blue tank torch from HD, and I tried that for 30 seconds, but I don't think the bolt got hot enough to melt or destroy any red locktight that may have been used.


Does anyone have any other tips? I guess I can try to hammer the cheater bar to jolt it or something....
 



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I would do a 6 point wrench not 12. You should be able to find that at either HD or a local parts store. Lessens the chance of rounding off the nuts. You should heat the nut till it has a little bit of a glow to it. Throwing some PB blaster on the nut helps a long way with any project that involves rust.
 






Lock tight requires 300 to 400 degrees to break it. The time needed with the torch depends on the torch being used. Only do one bolt at a time and leave cool before doing the next one, if the flange gets too hot it could damage the T/C seal.
Try covering it good with Liquid Wrench or another good thread breaker type. Then tap on the bolt head with a hammer, not hard enough to damage the T/C. Leave it set awhile before trying.
If you turn the drive shaft there should be one spot where a socket will fit on.
 






Before you break out the torch (which could destroy the seal), chock off the tires, put the transmission in Neutral, and spray some lubricant on the bolt heads. Sometimes, the removing the weight of the vehicle off of the drivetrain makes it that much easier to remove the bolts.
 






Before you break out the torch (which could destroy the seal), chock off the tires, put the transmission in Neutral, and spray some lubricant on the bolt heads. Sometimes, the removing the weight of the vehicle off of the drivetrain makes it that much easier to remove the bolts.


The bolts have 12pt heads, so a 6 pt won't work.

The wrench fits extremely snug, so I have no fear of rounding off the head. If anything, I fear breaking the bolt head off and leaving a stud in the flange . I did that with my nissan once on an exhaust bolt. The head just tore right off.

At first, I had the truck with the rear wheels on the ground. I tried then, but the clearance for my cheater bar was not enough to get it extended the whole way. I am soaking the bolts again with PB blaster for a second time.

I also lifted up the rear axle with the factory jack much higher, so I could get another inch or two (hopefully) for me to use the make-shift breaker bar.

Oh, the torch is propane. So, how long do I hold the flame to the head of the bolt?

Thanks!
 






Oh, and one other question: When using a torch to heat a bolt, isn't it better to actually let it cool down after it expands to break it free?
 






A propane torch will break lock tight. How long is hard to tell. definetly hotter than you would want to touch.
Don't think you will break the bolts they are very strong bolts. Probably break the wrench first.
 






A propane torch will break lock tight. How long is hard to tell. definetly hotter than you would want to touch.
Don't think you will break the bolts they are very strong bolts. Probably break the wrench first.

It is funny you mentioned that. I took a look at my wrench, and noticed it had bowed a little bit near the neck. A 12mm wrench is not the beefiest wrench around, at least not my kobalt.

*update* - I bent the head of the wrench even more. Now I'm going to sears to see if I can find a 7" 12mm wrench that doesn't bend. It makes you wonder though...I bet that dang bolt head is going to snap off.

*update 2* - I bought a much thicker 12mm/14mm box wrench and was able to finally break all 4 free. I'm doing this to change out my transmission.
Now I'm down to the trans cross member and the transmission to engine bolts.
 






Glad you got them out, Those are strong bolts would have been very suprised if a head had broken off.
 






Thanks.

I struggled to get the top two bolts off my transmission. Holy cow was it hard to get those top bolts. I found that going that above the insulation helped give me the angle needed.
 






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