Easy trick for replacing front diffy fluid?

[GJarrett]

Post-Moab problem #2: I need to replace my diffy fluids; Ford house said $30 each so I said go ahead, then I get a call back. They told me that replacing the front diffy fluid required dropping the diff (1.5 hrs labor and a lotta more $$) so I said forget it.

Is there a trick to replacing my front diff fluid that would make it an easier job now that I am going to do it instead of paying someone else?


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Gerald
"Nerves of Steel; Brain of Chipmunk"
'99 Eddie Bauer 4x4 4.0L SOHC aka "The Jeepeater"
Dead Link Removed
"What the heck is he doing out here in that thing???"

 

[FMNavajo]

I changed mine with a small hand pump, (got it at Kragen for $3), and a 3/8" plastic tube. I put the tube in the check/fill hole and pumped the old fluid out until I heard that noise you here when you get to the bottom of a milkshake. I then turned the pump around and put it in the container that held the new fluid and pumped the new fluid in until it ran out of the check/fill hole. I ran it for a couple of miles and checked the fluid again to make sure it was at the correct level.

Note- If you have any kind of locker make sure you get the correct friction additive to add to the new fluid.

Hope this helps,
FM

[This message has been edited by FMNavajo (edited 05-15-2000).]

 

[Big E]

When I replced my front diff. fluid I drilled a hole in the bottom of the diff. to make it easier to change th fluid next time. And made sure that I washed all the shavings out (that is most important)I used a whole can of break clean and a quart of 10w30 to rinse out the shavings. I work at a lawnmower shop, so I got a pipe thread tap and drainplug from there. And that is what I used. It is probaly more expensive the frist time you do it, but I saves gettting all messy and wondering "Is it all out". And like FMNavajo said "Use the right fluid"

Eric

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I would rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!

 

[Scott B.]

As long as you can get to the fill plug ...

FM suggested pumping the fluid out of the diff - effective, not too time consuming, but can be a bit of work. Instead, stick a hose into the diff, like you are going to pump the fluid out, draw a suction on the hose to start fluid flow, remove your suction device - tada! You have created a siphon! It will flow out all by itself!

This is not as fast as pumping the fluid out, but it is definately much easier! Dead Link Removed Once the fluid stops draining on its own, you will want to use a pump to make sure you get as much of the old fluid out as possible.


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Scott
1993 Ranger, Modified

sjbosso@mindspring.com

 

[GJarrett]

Well, ok Scott.... hey, what does that stuff taste like, anyway? Dead Link Removed

 

[Scott B.]

Hey - laziness is the mother of invention!

And I do use a pump (a 60cc syringe, specifically) - it was only in the movies when you would actually suck on a hose to siphon gasoline.

Although, one time I did pull out fluid that looked like a chocolate milkshake! Dead Link Removed

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Scott
1993 Ranger, Modified

sjbosso@mindspring.com

 

[GJarrett]

Actually Scott, I don't know how old you are, but is WASN'T only in the movies when they sucked gasoline out of siphon hoses. It's fairly easy but requires good timing that is usually learned the hard way Dead Link Removed for the first couple of tries.

(PS/ gasoline burns your lips and tastes very bad. And contrary to rumors you may have heard, there are no lingering aftereffects. Just ask my cellmate in the sanitarium what a great guy I am. Dead Link Removed )


[This message has been edited by GJarrett (edited 05-15-2000).]

 

[Scott B.]

OK, OK - the only time I every sucked gas was when I had a fly-by-string Cox .049 gasoline engine powered airplane. (That should give you an idea how old I am Dead Link Removed)

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Scott
1993 Ranger, Modified

sjbosso@mindspring.com

[This message has been edited by Scott Bosso (edited 05-15-2000).]

 

[Tom Wilk]

Gerald, I was kind of wondering what diffy lube tastes like, myself. It doesn't smell very good, so I doubt if it tastes any better. Dead Link Removed

That 90 weight oil is pretty thick to draw through a tube, so a hand pump might be pretty useful. I know several boat owners that use a hand pump to change the oil on their I/O boats, since the oil pan is very hard to get to down in the bottom of the bilge. Plus, getting a drip pan under there is most difficult. They stick a tube down the dipstick hole.

There may be a special pump made specifically for this task, so you may want to check out a marine supply store. Be warned, however, that anything designated for marine use will cost twice as much as the same device designated for automotive use. Also, make sure that the diameter of the tube will fit the drain hole (it should).

Also, Gerald, did you do any stream crossings at Moab or are you concerned about some of that famous dust getting in there? Or, is it just time to change the fluids? I hadn't thought of it, but I suppose that some Moab dust may have worked its way into the differential vents as well as the tranny. Anybody think that this is a reasonable conception?

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Tom
99 Sport 4x4
SOHC
Auburn Rear & Gerald's old Shackles
265/75-R16 BFG AT's that weren't supposed to fit

 

[Weatherman]

OK, personally I use a suction gun, designed for the job. It cost like $20+, but I needed it at the time and didn't feel like making a "customized model" Dead Link Removed. And since you are all so curious, here is my personal flavor scale...

1) Gasoline - nasty and you never feel like you washed it all out (Siphoning)
2) ATF - the smell and flavor stay with you for the rest of your life (tried to put too much in the manual trans, head under fill hole)
3) Gear Oil - bad, but you can get over it. (installed old transmission over my head, slipped and turned it upside down over my head)
4) Motor Oil - usually not very old, usually not very good either. (losing my grip on too many oil filters.)

I've been hearing great reviews on Royal Purple chemicals, might be worth my time to invest in them, flavor wise that is...

Anyhow, the pump i use looks like the barrel of a grease gun. I like it, and it's strong enough that I wont break it. Worth it if you are into things for the long haul.

 

[Ray Lobato]

Hi Tom,
We did a couple of stream crossings on Steel Bender. I noticed that when I was putting the sway bars back the rear axle vent tube had come off and the first water crossing was deep enough to have gotten water in through the vent tube. Gerald was there when I saw this, so I think he is probably getting it changed just to make sure. Gerald I also got my rear dif fluids changed and didn't want to pay the extra 100 bucks either. Let me know what you come up with so I can do my front too. Dead Link Removed As far as the infamous Moab dust getting into the diffs, well unless your vent tube comes off and there is a sudden change in temp you should be OK.
Hey Weatherman,
Where did you get this pump gun? Sounds like it would be something handy to have just for things like this. Dead Link Removed

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Happy Wheelin'
Ray L.
97 XLT 4X4 4.0L SOHC
Dead Link Removed

 

[Dre]

Hey, I've been thinking about doing it myself for a while and even bought oil. If my memory serves me right I think I saw this device (pump) at Pep Boys the other day. Made specifically for the purpose. I got to go by the store tomorrow anyway so I'll pick one up and finally change the dif fluids.

Will let you know,
Dead Link Removed

Later,


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Andre Hryn
94 Limited
Andre's "baby"

 

[GJarrett]

Tom,

Ray was right about the stream crossing on Steelbender, but that's not what worried me. It was only about a fifteen ft wide crossing so I wasn't in it for very long, even though both Ray and I crossed it twice including our quick pre-run the day before. I don't think that's a big deal.

What worried me was a river crossing I made a couple weeks beforehand. It was a muddy river about 60 yards wide and up to my headlights. Once across, I had to come back through it again. I can verify that the weatherseals on my doors work great; the waterline on my door jambs came up way above seat height and yet not a drop seeped into the cab. My engine bay was covered in muddy dried up water and I had to hose off my K&N filter.

THAT crossing is why I want to change my diffy fluids before much more time elapses.



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Gerald
"Nerves of Steel; Brain of Chipmunk"
'99 Eddie Bauer 4x4 4.0L SOHC aka "The Jeepeater"
Dead Link Removed
"What the heck is he doing out here in that thing???"

 

[JAY]

I wish I had seen this earlier. An easy way to drain your front diff is to remove the lower bolt from the diff housing and drill it all the way through. The lower bolt goes inside the diff housing and makes a great drain plug when drill all the way through. It is quick and easy, just be careful not to mess up the threads.

JAY

 

[mattadams]

Wow Jay that actually sounds useful. Just for reference, heres the only time I've been REALLY worried about what was in my diff, and it turns out no mud got into my diffs at all (at least none that I could see while pumping):

Who's the U-Boat commander? Dead Link Removed

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Matt Adams
94 Explorer 4-door nick-named "Tippy"
http://bart.is-s.com/~explorers/madams/

 

[GJarrett]

Thanks Jay! I have NOT done it yet; was planning for this weekend. So you saw the thread in time to help me.

I'm gonna look into your easy fix and will do it if it applies to my front.



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Gerald
"Nerves of Steel; Brain of Chipmunk"
'99 Eddie Bauer 4x4 4.0L SOHC aka "The Jeepeater"
Dead Link Removed
"What the heck is he doing out here in that thing???"

 

[Dre]

Just got the pump - $4.99 plus tax at Pep Boys but idea of putting a drain plug sounds good. The only think is what size of a plug should I use? there were at least ten different sizes at the store. Well, should be able to look at it by the end of the week.

Later,

Dead Link Removed


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Andre Hryn
94 Limited
Andre's "baby"

 

[RangerX]

Gerald,
Jay's trick on drilling the bolt is for TTB Dana 35's. It may or may not work on your later model IFS. I've never looked that close at one to know how similar they are. Jay, any idea?

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Bill Collins
93 Ranger XLT 4X4
Modified

 

[GJarrett]

Bill,
I've already checked it out. I cannot find the lower plug.

I think I've got the inverse Dana 35 which must be different from yours because there ain't no holes in the bottom nowhere at all. I'll just siphon it out. No big deal, and a heckuva lot cheaper than paying the Ford dealership 1.5 hours labor to drop the case.

I'm thinking of siphoning as much as I can out, then filling it with 10w-30 and running it a couple of miles to rinse it out, then draining that out and refilling. I would think that would be a good way to go.

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Gerald
"Nerves of Steel; Brain of Chipmunk"
'99 Eddie Bauer 4x4 4.0L SOHC aka "The Jeepeater"
Dead Link Removed
"What the heck is he doing out here in that thing???"

 

[JAY]

Gerald,
What I did was use a drill bit just big enough to fit inside the threads of the hole and used a very slow drill speed so I could make sure I wasn't rubbing on the threads. I than took a tap to it just to make sure I didn't wreck the threads. I didn't need to tap it out, the threads were fine but I figured why not since I had a tap. I than dumped some liquid solvent into the filler hole to wash out any metal shavings. I than let the diff sit for about an hour so all the solvent and old fluid could drip out. Now when ever I suspect contamination all I need to do is pull the lower bolt to drain the fluid.

JAY