EB wont start, need help

[GunnerSchenck]

also, just a random q, if i do end up having to replace my injectors. autozone sells them for 68.99, is that just one? cuz then i'd have to replace 6, so thatd be like...ha idk alot

 

[mr cribb]

also, just a random q, if i do end up having to replace my injectors. autozone sells them for 68.99, is that just one? cuz then i'd have to replace 6, so thatd be like...ha idk alot

$420 ish... pass

Rockauto.com has got to have better prices.

 

[wantdeath]

there is a youtube video of a guy using some kind of syringe and a can of carb cleaner and a spare injector plug with a power source and a switch. but it looks like a huge pain in the ass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY

 

[GunnerSchenck]

which one of the fuel lines leading to the fuel rail is the return line? because someone(who used to be a mechanic) looked at the thing and said he thinks the fuel lines in the bay are reversed? i just wanted to check which line is the return line and which is the one that feeds the gas to the rail?

 

[MrShorty]

The return line should be coming off of the FPR. The supply line goes to the fuel rail, and is the line coming out of the fuel filter.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

im going to test the wire on the injectors to see if they're getting power. i have a circuit tester, but what setting do i use it on to read if it's getting power? and do i have to pull the connector off and check it, or can i just put it against the wire on the outside?

 

[GunnerSchenck]

okay, so ive tested them and i'm pretty sure they're not getting power. what do i do now? check the wiring back to the computer? could it be the computer? it sat there for 5 years till i bought it so do you think that could make the computer go bad? or could one of the wires being messed up cause this?

 

[MrShorty]

Do you have a wiring diagram? Even the one in Chilton's gives a decent picture of the injector circuits.

Your injectors should have a constant 12 V power supply with the key, and then they fire when the computer completes the ground side of the circuit. If you look at your wiring diagram, you should see that the injectors are getting power from the EEC relay, so I'd probably got the relay and make sure the relay is closing. If the relay is closing, and the injectors don't have power, then there's a break somewhere between the relay and the injector. If the relay isn't closing, then you need to figure out why the relay is stuck open.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

yeah i have one of the manuals. and i thought that was the power running to the computer. oops. would getting a new EEC relay fix it do you think? cuz to be honest im sick of this thing chilling in the garage. i wanna take it out now that its getting nice ha

 

[MrShorty]

yeah i have one of the manuals. and i thought that was the power running to the computer.

You read it correctly, the injectors share the same power supply as the PCM.

would getting a new EEC relay fix it do you think?

only if something is wrong with the EEC relay preventing it from closing.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

how do i check to see if the relay is closing? and do you know where it's located so i know where to chase down the wiring to?
so, from where i'm at with this now, do you recommend checking the computer or the EEC relay first? this is my first time dealing with any of this so i'm not gunna lie, i'm pretty lost. i mean, i get the concept, just don't know how to go about fixing any of this.

 

[MrShorty]

The relays are inside the power distribution box. On my '92, the top half of the box with the fuses lifts up and out to reveal the relays underneath.

I would start by putting my voltmeter on the "outlet" of the relay (the red wire in this case), and turn the key on. If it shows 12 V, the relay is obviously closed. If it shows 0 V, then the relay didn't close, or there's a break in the power upstream of the relay.

So, put the voltmeter on the "inlet" wire (yellow I think, the one from the fuse). If this has 12 V, then the relay didn't close. If this doesn't have 12 V, then fault is further upstream (maybe the fuse).

If it looks like the relay is not closing, before declaring the relay defunct, check the coil side of the relay for a complete circuit. Basically, if there is current flowing through the coil side of the relay and the relay isn't closing, the relay is bad.

I would test it in place, so this will not necessarily determine if the fault is in the relay or if it is corrosion in the relay socket. If you get that far, consider checking the socket for continuity before replacing the relay.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

okay inside of the EEC relay test part i see a bunch of wires, which two should i test? i see a white w/ purple line, red w/ light blue line, a spot with a red w/ green line and a grayish with a pinkish red line, grayish black w/ red line, 2 blue w/ orange lines, and a tanish orange wire w/ a orange line.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

or am i looking at the wrong thing? cuz i'm looking at a little block on the back of the distribution block that says "EEC Relay Test" on the top