Electrical issues with #10mini fuse, a/c and stereo

[Blackroses88]

I'm new to the forums and I have a 97 explorer xlt 5.0 that we just bought a few months ago. Since we have gotten it we have/will be been doing nothing but replacing parts (so far 2 brake lines, gas tank, both front wheel hubs, air filter, stereo have been replaced) because of previous owner neglect.

Right now the A/C blows hot air with working speed control and heat working fine. We also have no power to the stereo and the overhead console. This is what we know is not working but there may be more we are just not sure.

We are also having to replace both driver and passenger upper and lower ball joints plus shocks, tires, rotors, calipers and brake pads all around. We are waiting on delivery of these parts so we figured we would install the stereo in the meantime.

The issue we are trying to fix is no power to the stereo (we've been driving with no radio since we bought it. We ended up buying the Explorer with a blown stereo in it with the wrong wire harness.) We ordered the premium wire harness online, got it and wired everything up. When we hooked the stereo up to the car there was no power to the deck.

We first checked the fuses. #10 and #20 mini fuses inside panel according to the diagram we found. #10 was blown. We then replaced it and it blew again. #20 was fine.

We are not sure but we are now thinking the same issue is causing the a/c to not work. When we turn on the a/c it only blows hot air. The speed control does work and we've had no issues with our heat since we bought the truck in March.

If there is any advise as to what the issue could be or what else we should be checking. One forum that I read stated something about a blower motor relay causing the #10 mini fuse to blow but we want some advise before we start buying stuff. Thanks!

 

[bobflood]

Great source for wiring diagrams, which are an essential tool for chasing electrical issues. Rather than just replace parts, do some analysis first to figure out what is causing the fuse to blow. Good luck.
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
Login ID: rrcc
Login PW: rebsco
Select: Auto Repair Reference Center
Fill in: Find Your Vehicle
Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.

 

[Blackroses88]

I have an update on this. I have the radio now installed and working. I found fuse #29 mini inside blown so we replaced this with a new 10amp fuse and radio works just fine now.

As for fuse #10 constantly blowing we disconnected the speed control deactivation switch located on the master cylinder and replaced fuse #10 inside and the fuse no longer blows and our overhead console is working.

When we unplugged the speed control deactivation switch the wire was wet and there was brake fluid on the inside of the switch. The posts that I have read about the #10 mini fuse blowing was pointing to this switch so this morning when we disconnected the wire that's when the fuse stopped blowing.

I have an appointment this Thursday to have the Speed Control Deactivation Switch that was recalled fixed by the local Ford dealership. I will update afterwards if this fixes the issue.

 

[koda2000]

have you had the brake/cruise control recall done? it adds a jumper wire with fuses to the brake switch on the master cylinder and if leaking (and it sounds like yours is) a new brake switch. a Ford dealership will do this recall for free. unplug the cruise control and leave it unplugged until the recall is done. there is a serious risk of starting a fire w/out the recall.

as far as the A/C, when you say it blows hot air, do you mean heated air or just un-cooled air? if the air coming through is heated your problem may be your blend door. common problem. have you tried it on the A/C MAX setting?

 

[Blackroses88]

have you had the brake/cruise control recall done? it adds a jumper wire with fuses to the brake switch on the master cylinder and if leaking (and it sounds like yours is) a new brake switch. a Ford dealership will do this recall for free. unplug the cruise control and leave it unplugged until the recall is done. there is a serious risk of starting a fire w/out the recall.

as far as the A/C, when you say it blows hot air, do you mean heated air or just un-cooled air? if the air coming through is heated your problem may be your blend door. common problem. have you tried it on the A/C MAX setting?

The recall repairs are going to be done this thursday. I noticed when I unplugged the wire my explorer is braking a lot better (we replaced 2 brakes lines and the pedal was a little squishy. Now it's just fine with wire unplugged.) As far the a/c, it blows un-cooled air. When the #10 fuse was blowing it was blowing hot heated air but since the fuse isn't blowing anymore the a/c blows cool air but not cold.

 

[koda2000]

The recall repairs are going to be done this thursday. I noticed when I unplugged the wire my explorer is braking a lot better (we replaced 2 brakes lines and the pedal was a little squishy. Now it's just fine with wire unplugged.) As far the a/c, it blows un-cooled air. When the #10 fuse was blowing it was blowing hot heated air but since the fuse isn't blowing anymore the a/c blows cool air but not cold.

i don't see why it should brake any different with that wire disconnected, the recall has to do with the cruise control and brake switch overheating/leaking.

as far as the A/C, as long as it's blowing cool air now, i'd suggest you get your refrigerant level checked. it should be between 45-50 psi (depending on outside temp) if fully charged. my '97 isn't cooling too well and the pressure is barely 40 psi. there's also dye in my system, so the PO knew he had a leak. i have a little gauge that i'd gotten at the auto parts store years ago. it comes in handy for checking the A/C. i have a can of R134a and a hose, so i'll plan on adding some refrigerant to bring the pressure up.