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Electrical Upgrade Questions

n.a.mccanna

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August 28, 2011
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City, State
Auburndale, Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Mazda B4000 4WD
Don't have enough current from the factory electrical system!

The only additions to the truck's electrical system are; JVC head unit, 2 - 10" JL Audio W0V3, JL Audio XD600 amplifier, StreetGlow 100w Headlights, and a Cobra fuzz buster. Everything else is stock.

So, this is what I have done so far......bought and installed 130A alternator (replaced the factory alternator rated at 95A). Added 2ga. wire from alternator to battery.

This is what I plan to do......Upgrade battery to frame and frame to engine ground wires to the 2ga. wire.

With just the alternator and the alternator to battery wire upgraded, the amperage draw is the same as it was with the lesser alternator (according to the dimming lights and the gauge in-dash). What else should I be doing!?

Any suggestions would b greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 



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Really.....nothing...61 views and no responce.....not even a "that's the right direction" or "no, don't do that, it's a waste"!? Interesting!
 






I think you are on the right track. the BIG 3, is never a bad idea. Alt to battery, battery to ground of chassis, and battery to ground of engine block. and upgraded battery, say a Optima Yellow top, would help to, it is significantly cheaper then other HO batterys. for the BIG 3 I would suggest suing 0 gauge wire, that way you can flow the most amps as possible.

If all this does not help, I would suggest another Alternator upgrade, possible to a 200amp one. but start small, and work your way up.
 






Until you get the Big 3 complete it's not really gonna help that much. Getting the ground's done will complete the circuit.
 






If all this does not help, I would suggest another Alternator upgrade, possible to a 200amp one. but start small, and work your way up.

I really wanted to go with a 200A right from the get go, but I fell onto this 130A, brand new for $85. Had to give it a go before I spent a weeks pay on the 200A! Going to do the grounds tonight after work and see if I fixed the problem.

If I could only do 65mph all the time, this wouldn't b an issue! STUPID SPEED LIMITS!
 






I really wanted to go with a 200A right from the get go, but I fell onto this 130A, brand new for $85. Had to give it a go before I spent a weeks pay on the 200A! Going to do the grounds tonight after work and see if I fixed the problem.

If I could only do 65mph all the time, this wouldn't b an issue! STUPID SPEED LIMITS!

Where did you get a 130 amp alternator for $85? my alternator for my Eddie Bauer, which is 130 amps was $165. I am doing a system in mine soon, and I am doing the BIG 3, and new battery only, until x-mas, or my birthday, depending on how generous everybody is, saving $10 a week otherwise. I will most likely go with a DC Power, or Mechman Alternator.
 






Advanced Auto Parts. Go online. Print out the order and take it into your local store and they'll match the price. Original cost 109.99 - 25% = 82.29 + the $40 core that u get back when u return ur old one. Used the sales code from this site. 25% off alternators over $100.
 






Advanced Auto Parts. Go online. Print out the order and take it into your local store and they'll match the price. Original cost 109.99 - 25% = 82.29 + the $40 core that u get back when u return ur old one. Used the sales code from this site. 25% off alternators over $100.

I ALWAYS forget about those online codes. I did not know they would match the price though, this will help A LOT because there online prices are always cheaper then my local store.
 






You can purchase online and choose in store pickup but then your local store doesn't get credit for the sale. So, go all the way to checkout and just print out the page and take it into the local store and they will match it! No questions asked!

The code by the way was "ALTX"
 






Just an update on my original post.....wasn't able to get to the grounds last night. Lots going on. Maybe tonight!
 






FINALLY got to the work at hand. Replaced the grounds to the motor and body over the weekend and MOST of the dimming has stopped. Still draws alot of power at high volume but that is to b expected. I think that the 130A alternator will do the trick for now. The 200A is looming in the near future!
 






FINALLY got to the work at hand. Replaced the grounds to the motor and body over the weekend and MOST of the dimming has stopped. Still draws alot of power at high volume but that is to b expected. I think that the 130A alternator will do the trick for now. The 200A is looming in the near future!

Glad to see that it helped you, with doing the Big 3 upgrade, it helps a lot if you ever want to upgrade in the future.
 






Stopped by the local electric motor repair shop yesterday.....he said to change out the pulley for a smaller one. What it will do is cause the alternator to spin faster. It won't produce more power or current but it will produce it faster! I think I am going to buy a new battery first and see if that helps. Maybe add a 2nd battery to the truck and then go with the smaller pulley......maybe I should've just bought the 200A from the get!?
 






Stopped by the local electric motor repair shop yesterday.....he said to change out the pulley for a smaller one. What it will do is cause the alternator to spin faster. It won't produce more power or current but it will produce it faster! I think I am going to buy a new battery first and see if that helps. Maybe add a 2nd battery to the truck and then go with the smaller pulley......maybe I should've just bought the 200A from the get!?

Got this off the web:

"Improving Output at Idle Speed
There are several ways to get more power at lower engine speeds. If you only require a little more power at lower engine speeds you may be able to use a smaller pulley. The smaller pulley turns the alternator faster at lower speeds thus making more power. When using a smaller pulley care should be taken not to over rev the motor. If you over rev the alternator with a smaller pulley the alternator can fail."

I would suggest the new battery, Optima Yellow tops are good, and are A LOT cheaper then XS Power batterys, and other competition brands. I understand the buying the larger alternator, but for me at least, the income is just not there. I am building my setup, in steps, which is fine, because when the final product is working like it should, it will be more rewarding.
 






The Diehard Platinum battery from Sears is a re-badged $350 Odyssey for $200. Much better choice than an Optima IMO.
 






The Diehard Platinum battery from Sears is a re-badged $350 Odyssey for $200. Much better choice than an Optima IMO.

I never knew this, thanks for the insight, I may check this out. Now what battery style is it though? For example, is is just a higher quality Lead Acid Battery, or is it something else?
 






It's an AGM battery.

Also Car Quest's AGM is under $200 and is a re-badged Deka if I'm not mistaken. Though I couldn't personally recommend it at the moment as I haven't done any research on this particular battery.

Optima's quality has gone down the tube in the past few years, they aren't what they used to be. Much better alternatives out there for around the same price.

Note: The Sears Diehard Platinum (re-badged Odyssey) has a 4 year free replacement warranty.
 






It's an AGM battery.

Also Car Quest's AGM is under $200 and is a re-badged Deka if I'm not mistaken. Though I couldn't personally recommend it at the moment as I haven't done any research on this particular battery.

Optima's quality has gone down the tube in the past few years, they aren't what they used to be. Much better alternatives out there for around the same price.

Note: The Sears Diehard Platinum (re-badged Odyssey) has a 4 year free replacement warranty.

I have been hearing the about Optima from a few people, I mag go with this Diehard Platinum battery. I was mainly going with Optima, because my father used the same one in 2 trucks, and his race car, and it never gave him a single problem, plus they had the most CCA of any battery in the price range.

I just did a load test on my battery, and found it nearly failing, so an upgrade is needed, sorry for hijacking the thread, but I never knew about the Diehard Batterys.
 






That's what it's here for! Grow and learn!
 



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...and before OptimaJim comes in here saying that people didn't use to have these conversations a few years ago and that is the reason you wouldn't hear about these failure rates and that people aren't treating their AGM's correctly, or that parasitic draw is the culprit...

He's just doing his job. Do a google search and you'll find plenty of people that know how to use a voltmeter, ammeter, and AGM battery tender correctly are having these same failure rates from their Optima's. They switch to a Kinetik, Odyssey, Deka, what-have-you, and haven't had troubles since.
 






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