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Emergency Brake Issue

Haulass

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Joined
March 10, 2018
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City, State
Aberdeen, SD
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
Hey everyone,

I've looked for a thread on this subject but I was unable to find any so I thought I'd ask.

When my emergency break is pedal is press to the floor and is locked in, my Explorer still moves. So, do you think it's the emergency brake cable or the pads themselves? I really want to get this issue fixed because I'm paranoid about the vehicle resting on my transmission. I have a 1998 Ford Explorer.

Thanks in advance!

Brandon
 



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To be clear, it is not an emergency brake. It's a parking brake.

The friction surface on the parking brake shoes tends to crack and eventually fall off the metal backing. To check, remove the brake caliper (and the caliper bracket) and remove the rear disc from the axle. Then the condition of the parking brake shoes can be observed.

If the shoes are okay, they may need to be adjusted. The pedal shouldn't go all the way to the floor. It should stop after 4-5 clicks. Also, often then various parts associated with the parking brake can get rusty an seize if not regularly used.

Changing the parking break shoes is a major PITA unless the axles are removed. I've done it once w/out removing the axles and I'll never do it again w/out removing the axles. It's also a good opportunity to renew the rear diff fluid, axle bearings, and seals.
 






Hey everyone,

I've looked for a thread on this subject but I was unable to find any so I thought I'd ask.

When my emergency break is pedal is press to the floor and is locked in, my Explorer still moves. So, do you think it's the emergency brake cable or the pads themselves? I really want to get this issue fixed because I'm paranoid about the vehicle resting on my transmission. I have a 1998 Ford Explorer.

Thanks in advance!

Brandon
Could be simple shoe adjustment or the entire system will have to be overhauled. You could have a seized cable or actuator mechanism. You have to tear it down and inspect it.
 






Ditto, and not using the parking brakes causes them to not work as well(cable seizes up or stocks etc).

To get them to work best, everything needs to be new or easily moves well. Then you basically tighten the adjustment until you have to fight the rotor to get it on. The rotor should not slip on easily, there should be some resistance to pushing it on over the parking brake linings. I've gotten two of my 2nd gens to hold fairly well, they were about my 4th and 5th attempt to get the brakes tight enough.

Also be careful when installing the rear rotors, to be sure there isn't a significant wear edge for the linings to catch on. If there is, or the center hub hole is very tight on the axle, or corrosion builds up on any of those surfaces, it can be hell to get a rotor off. Always lubricate the hub faces of the axle and rotor inner face of the hub, so they don't bond at all.
 






Wish I had read this prior to doing my Pbrakes. The rotors went on WAY to easily. Guess I'll have to crawl under and tighten up the adjusters. I still felt that they just weren't snug enough after redoing the brakes. (and you're right, they are a b***h to do with the axles in place)
 






I believe you can adjust them from the back side. But each adjuster has to go the opposite way as the other, and it's not easy to tell which way does what to begin with.
 






I believe you can adjust them from the back side. But each adjuster has to go the opposite way as the other, and it's not easy to tell which way does what to begin with.

Yes, there's a rubber plug on the bottom of the backing plate that just pops out. You can use a brake spoon or a flat-blade screw driver. They, the adjuster wheels, should go in the same direction to adjust them out (Upward I think, but not 100% positive of that). If you have to go in the opposite direction on one, it's the wrong adjuster for that side (they're side specific).
 






IF all the parking brake hardware and shoes are functioning properly, easiest way for me was adjusting with everything installed with the tires on the ground. Release the parking brake and turn the star adjusters tight against the drums. Loosen THREE to FOUR "clicks" on both sides and test. Repeat and adjust as needed. If parking brake drag is noticed or heard, loosen one click at a time. Stubby flat blade screwdriver works well for adjusting. Simple.
 






IF all the parking brake hardware and shoes are functioning properly, easiest way for me was adjusting with everything installed with the tires on the ground. Release the parking brake and turn the star adjusters tight against the drums. Loosen THREE to FOUR "clicks" and test. Repeat and adjust as needed. Simple and quick.

I agree, but he will have to lift the auto-adjuster arm (little metal arm that locks the star-wheel in place) in order to loosen it. Just use a second screw driver. When you tighten the star-wheel you'll hear the metal arm "click" as you go. That's the way you'll know your going in the right direction when tightening.

The auto-adjuster is supposed to tighten the star-wheel automatically when you hit the brakes while in reverse. The shoes rock and pull on a small cable attached to the lever. They typically don't work great, or sometimes the cable can break.

When working on drum-style brakes (which is what the parking brake is) I take the adjusters apart, clean them and apply anti-seize to the threads. This keeps them moving easily and prevents them from rusting.
 






I take the adjusters apart, clean them and apply anti-seize to the threads. This keeps them moving easily and prevents them from rusting.
^ Best parking brake advice EVER. Also, get in the habit of applying the PB ***** putting the shifter in park, every time.

EDIT- Oops, meant BEFORE, not after.
 






^ Best parking brake advice EVER. Also, get in the habit of applying the PB after putting the shifter in park, every time.

And to get it to release more easily, step on the brake pedal while pulling the release handle.
 






I agree, but he will have to lift the auto-adjuster arm (little metal arm that locks the star-wheel in place) in order to loosen it. Just use a second screw driver. When you tighten the star-wheel you'll hear the metal arm "click" as you go. That's the way you'll know your going in the right direction when tightening.

The auto-adjuster is supposed to tighten the star-wheel automatically when you hit the brakes while in reverse. The shoes rock and pull on a small cable attached to the lever. They typically don't work great, or sometimes the cable can break.

When working on drum-style brakes (which is what the parking brake is) I take the adjusters apart, clean them and apply anti-seize to the threads. This keeps them moving easily and prevents them from rusting.

Ok, only problem I have with that is I don't recall seeing ANY form of auto-adjuster on the parking brake (I looked, used to work on drum brakes a lot when I was young). I just figured being parking brakes the designers didn't see a need for an auto-adjuster. If there were one in there you could simply adjust your parking brakes by pressing the pedal multiple times. So now the question is... Did Ford put an auto-adjust in the Explorer Parking brakes and I'm just missing it somehow? or was it never there to begin with?
 












Yep, thats the PDF i was using (I have all 5000 pages of the Manual downloaded). Didn't make any mention of auto-anything. Though I sure wish Ford had chosen to make them auto adjust.
 






I can't say with 100% certainty it should have them, but all drum style brakes I've worked on have had them. W/O an auto adjuster the brake shoes would need regular manual adjustment. I'm pretty sure the last Explorer 4-wheel disc brake parking brakes I changed had the auto adjust cables and levers, but it was 5 years ago, so perhaps not... ? It's possible I'm remembering the drum rear brakes on my '01 Sport Trac.
 






The only reason I can think of that Ford would have left auto adjusters off of the parking brake is that Parking brake shoes shouldn't wear out. Think of it, when would parking brakes ever have high friction/heat applied to them? In theory, the vehicle is not moving when they are applied, and (hopefully) they are released prior to the vehicle moving again. Perhaps Ford was counting on this and the adjusters are there only to set the gap between the shoes and the drum on installation.
 






The only reason I can think of that Ford would have left auto adjusters off of the parking brake is that Parking brake shoes shouldn't wear out. Think of it, when would parking brakes ever have high friction/heat applied to them? In theory, the vehicle is not moving when they are applied, and (hopefully) they are released prior to the vehicle moving again. Perhaps Ford was counting on this and the adjusters are there only to set the gap between the shoes and the drum on installation.

Yeah, I thought about that too. God knows there's not much room back there for anything extra.
 






The only reason I can think of that Ford would have left auto adjusters off of the parking brake is that Parking brake shoes shouldn't wear out. Think of it, when would parking brakes ever have high friction/heat applied to them? In theory, the vehicle is not moving when they are applied, and (hopefully) they are released prior to the vehicle moving again. Perhaps Ford was counting on this and the adjusters are there only to set the gap between the shoes and the drum on installation.

That's what I recall thinking when I replaced them the first time. I don't recall anything there which would help them adjust themselves. The parts are very small, about the same as an drum brakes, but the adjuster and arm, spring etc, they are cute and fragile. I've bought new hardware kits for the last two trucks I did(my 99 and new 98). I compared the OEM parts with the new ones, and used a combination of what seemed better.
 






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