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Engine bogging

Joined
April 13, 2022
Messages
35
Reaction score
6
City, State
Portland
Year, Model & Trim Level
07 sport Trac 4.0
So in the beginning I had clogged cats...half the power rough idle. I cut the cats off I left the upstream 02 sensors. Bought new ones and straight piped it to the muffler. After this I'm having a bogging issue. I replaced EGR valve and EGR tube connector because I thought I heard an air leak. I still hear air but when I spray carb cleaner I get no results I've been through 2 hole cans. I've pealed back the plastic on all connectors to make sure here wasn't a short. So when I'm driving it boggs out between gears. When I hold the idle at 1500 or higher it boggs in about 3 seconds. Any ideas? Oh yeah I changed the fuel filter also. Any help is appreciated thx
 



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Figure out why the cats failed, then replace them.
 






Figure out why the cats failed, then replace them.
My sister owned the vehicle before me and blew the motor. I'm thinking maybe that had something to do with the cats going bad. I really didn't want to eliminate the cats but I didn't have the money to replace them. I heard if you leave the upstream O2 sensors it wouldn't effect the motor any. I just pulled the codes again today and the main code was evap solenoid. Could that cause my symptoms?
 






it could iirc, it ca n cause power loss iirc, not too sure, never had an evap issue to learn from yet!
 






it could iirc, it ca n cause power loss iirc, not too sure, never had an evap issue to learn from yet!
Well I have one arriving tomorrow so I'll let ya know lol.
 






I think you need the front cats. Otherwise t expects to see a change between the front o2s and the rears.

What codes do you have?
 






I think you need the front cats. Otherwise t expects to see a change between the front o2s and the rears.

What codes do you have?

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Ok...so I just went out there with an incense and held it up to where I can hear the air leak and I watched the smoke go right in where the gasket is on the EGR valve. Both the EGR, gasket, and tube connector that the egr bolts to are all new. I checked the gasket and it's in the right way so I'm trying to seal it with gasket sealer and see in the morning if it worked
 






Remove it completely and flatten it on a grinder. If it’s leaking around the gasket it’s not flat.
 






Remove it completely and flatten it on a grinder. If it’s leaking around the gasket it’s not flat.
Yeah I'm confused both new parts. I bought the tube connector because I thought the o ring was leaking and the EGR for the map sensor. I had to get the tube connector from Ford. I'm gonna see if the gasket sealer works I took it apart and did both sides. If that don't work I'll take it back apart and check it with a straight edge
 






So I'm still dealing with this issue. I took the EGR back off and plugged holes and blew through it. Well there is a tiny hole underneath the metal diaphragm that is leaking air. I'm almost certain this is the air leak I'm hearing anyone know what this hole is for? When I spray my carb cleaner at it it changes the idle so I know it's sucking air. I thought it was coming from the gasket but it's not. That hole is right above the gasket area
 












Wanted to update this thread. I feel stupid but I'm glad this situation is over. What I thought was an air leak I could hear was not an air leak. It may be the injectors I'm hearing or something else. Anyways I learned there was a fuse to the heater circuits/ o2 sensors. I took a look and a 15 amp fuse is what was causing all my issues with it bogging and rough idling. Changed the fuse and all better. I must have shorted it out when I cut the cats out. Anyways it's been fun...not lol. Thx all for helping out.
 






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