Engine cut off, now it cranks and wont turn over

[cjmedina]

It sounds like your getting gas to the cylinders as you said the plugs were wet yet you say there is no spark and you replaced the coil. Spark has to be there at correct time. With out the valve covers off you can't check cam timing but you can also check compression on the left bank.

I think your over looking something here.

Do you smell gas when cranking for a bit?

 

[Ferreus]

I cant detect a noticeable gas smell. I tried switching the relays. no luck. i got new spark plug wires, but still the weak spark from the new coil.

are there any other ignition components that could cause weak spark? this is before even reaching the plugs.

 

[cjmedina]

Even with a week spark you should hear it trying to kick over.

If your cranking it and the injectors are spraying you should smell gas!


Cliff

 

[budwich]

technique is with a spark testing tool purchased at the auto parts store plugged into the plug end of the spark plug wire, connecting the tool through the wire to the coil. the tool is then grounded and the engine cranked. someone watches the spark. it crosses the gap, but is yellow/gold, indicating weak spark. even with new coil.

grounded to where/what? I think that you still to do a compression test on both sides.

 

[Ferreus]

Raining all day yesterday and today, still haven't done full compression test.

Does the self-test (paperclip method) PSM coded retrieval work for my vehicle?

The spark tester was grounded at the body or neg. battery terminal, depending on where the wire reached.

 

[budwich]

the paper clip doesn't work past 95. OK.... as mentioned earlier check your grounds. Put one meter lead on the battery neg.... go around the engine area and ground points and measure "0" ohms every where.... if not, you have grounding issues which might cause electrical problems.

 

[Ferreus]

Are there specific ground points I should be looking for? or just test anything I can find?

 

[Ferreus]

OK. I broke down and took it to a mechanic. He says it's jumped timing. He claims there's a chance the valves are bent and I need a new motor. Should i pay to have him take apart the engine? or should i put the money towards a new car?

 

[cjmedina]

You said you had 180 pounds of compression on the left head.

Check compression on the right head to confirm what the mechanic told you.

You may be able to fix the right head if you didn't bend the valves, or if you did, you could replace the right head.



This is all if what the Mechanic said is correct.

Double check!!!!

Do you have compression on the right side or not?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Make sure he's qualified

OK. I broke down and took it to a mechanic. He says it's jumped timing. He claims there's a chance the valves are bent and I need a new motor. Should i pay to have him take apart the engine? or should i put the money towards a new car?

From your posts I suspect that removing the valve covers to check the timing may require more experience and tools than you have. If your rear cassette is damaged or the rear timing chain is broken then the engine will have to be removed to repair it. Before deciding to have any work done by the "mechanic" make sure he has the special timing tool set and knows how to use it. At least one forum member had his engine destroyed by a "mechanic" that was not familiar with the engine. The "mechanic" tore down the engine, found and replaced failed components, reassembled the engine but incorrectly timed the camshafts. Valves collided with pistons.

If you're considering replacing the engine, I suggest that the timing chains and guides on the donor engine be inspected or some proof of recent replacement be required. Timing chain guides have failed as early as 45,000 miles although the "improved" ones rarely fail that soon. A salvaged engine may come with a warranty but I doubt it would cover the labor to replace a defective engine with another one.

 

[cjmedina]

I bet the mechanic didn't do a Compression test.....DID HE?


Cliff