Engine dies when turning wheel to far

[hatecars]

I am having this issue that when I turn the wheel too far (turning into my driveway, to get into mcdonalds drive thru) the engine dies. However once I stop and put the car in park it starts right up again..

Strange I know

V8 AWD 2003 Mountaineer


Also seems to run hard(heavy) all the time, sounds like some mack truck..even when in park.

 

[03XLT4X4]

I am having this issue that when I turn the wheel too far (turning into my driveway, to get into mcdonalds drive thru) the engine dies. However once I stop and put the car in park it starts right up again..

Strange I know

V8 AWD 2003 Mountaineer


Also seems to run hard(heavy) all the time, sounds like some mack truck..even when in park.

My little brothers 93 F-150 does that too. 33in tsl thornbirds 3in body lift 4x4 351W. I'd say on his truck not enough back pressure cause he's running straights.

 

[IZwack]

I am having this issue that when I turn the wheel too far (turning into my driveway, to get into mcdonalds drive thru) the engine dies. However once I stop and put the car in park it starts right up again..

Strange I know

V8 AWD 2003 Mountaineer


Also seems to run hard(heavy) all the time, sounds like some mack truck..even when in park.

Sounds like maybe the viscous clutch in the AWD transfer case is locking up. Search for "viscous clutch" and see what you dig up.

 

[hatecars]

So i have an update.

Check Engine light came on..

Went to autzone. codes came back P0171 and P0174...

P0171:
Definition: Fuel trim bank one condition
Explanation: The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.

Probable Cause: 1. If bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF (mass air flow) sensor
2. Fuel injector problem

Essentialy code P0174 says the same thing..

Autozone guy mentioned there was a spray cleaner for the MAF, before spending $125 to replace it.

Also mention something called an ERG..
Also asked when the last time i change my fuel filter was (didn't know of such a thing) and he said normally you want to change it every 30k-40K miles ( I have 100k+) and that is only $17...

So will probably start with the MAF cleaner, then fuel filter.. unless you guys think that is unwise.

 

[03XLT4X4]

So i have an update.

Check Engine light came on..

Went to autzone. codes came back P0171 and P0174...

P0171:
Definition: Fuel trim bank one condition
Explanation: The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.

Probable Cause: 1. If bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF (mass air flow) sensor
2. Fuel injector problem

Essentialy code P0174 says the same thing..

Autozone guy mentioned there was a spray cleaner for the MAF, before spending $125 to replace it.

Also mention something called an ERG..
Also asked when the last time i change my fuel filter was (didn't know of such a thing) and he said normally you want to change it every 30k-40K miles ( I have 100k+) and that is only $17...

So will probably start with the MAF cleaner, then fuel filter.. unless you guys think that is unwise.

Hey buddy, yes try cleaning the MAF that will help. Now when you change the fuel filter don't be surprised if what comes out is black my was too. I am the third owner of my X and nothing has been changed on it. Til I did it myself started with an oil change, spark plugs, fuel filter, an a few little things here and there. I just recently cleaned my throttle body,MAF, and shoved some sea foam in the gas tank and brake booster and it runs a lot better. Hope this helps keep us informed. Good Luck

 

[Brandon96]

P0171 and P0174 were usually upper intake gaskets on the 2nd gens, probably 98% of the time. I had to replace them because of the same codes..

Now, since you have a 3rd Gen V8, I would definitely clean your MAF first and then run some SeaFoam through the engine and put some in the gas tank. If those don't do it I would then suspect your upper intake gaskets. Those two codes are saying both banks of the engine are running lean, meaning it has a vacuum leak somewhere. Unmetered air is getting into engine, the most popular place being those gaskets.

Good writeups on the p0171/p0174 codes and the SeaFoam treatment can be found with the search button.. good luck!

 

[hatecars]

P0171 and P0174 were usually upper intake gaskets on the 2nd gens, probably 98% of the time. I had to replace them because of the same codes..

Now, since you have a 3rd Gen V8, I would definitely clean your MAF first and then run some SeaFoam through the engine and put some in the gas tank. If those don't do it I would then suspect your upper intake gaskets. Those two codes are saying both banks of the engine are running lean, meaning it has a vacuum leak somewhere. Unmetered air is getting into engine, the most popular place being those gaskets.

Good writeups on the p0171/p0174 codes and the SeaFoam treatment can be found with the search button.. good luck!

So I clean my MAF and that seemed to do the trick, however my CEL light is still on, is there any to reset that?

Just out of curiosity, what is a an upper intake gasket and how hard is that to replace?

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>

So i have an update.>>>>>>>>>>>>Probable Cause: 1.MAF (mass air flow) sensor>>>>>>>>

Here is some tips, only use "MAF sensor spray cleaner". It is designed for this specific sensor. Do not drop this sensor once pulled out, it's very fragile and expensive to replace as you just found out. Make sure the vehicle, MAF sensor is cooled off when you pull it out to clean it. This sensor gets very hot during operation and spray cleaners are flammable. You might want to hold the spray cleaner tip straw back a foot or so from the MAF sensor when cleaning it, spray comes out forceful sometimes. Don't let the straw or anything else (your fingers) besides the spray, touch the elctrodes inside of the MAF sensor opening port. After you cleaned it, set it down on a clean rag and let it dry out for approx 20-30 minutes. The MAF cleaner is fast drying according to the label on the can. After doing this, your gas mileage may improve, mine did.


>>>>>>>>>>>So will probably start with the MAF cleaner, then fuel filter.. unless you guys think that is unwise.>>>>>>>>>

Definately do the gas filter, it's only a $10 part. I had mine done at 84,000 miles, and it was clogged up. Like someone else just told you in here, don't be surprised by what comes out of your old filter. BTW, your filter may be a "directional Flow" filter and if it is, your new one should be marked with an "arrow" painted on the outside of it marking the direction of the flow of fuel from the gas tank to the engine. The arrow points towards the engine. You could also think about have a fuel injector cleaning done as well. I had mine done at a Ford Dealership and it cost $89+tax. Good luck.

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>

however my CEL light is still on, is there any to reset that?<<<<<<<<<<<<


>>>>>>>>>Just out of curiosity, what is a an upper intake gasket and how hard is that to replace?

>>>>>>>>>>

You can probably look that up here to be sure, on how to reset the CEL, but I've read posts in here not long ago where guys said to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes or so, reconnect, then run the vehicle at normal driving situations to allow the computer to reset itself. One guy mentioned to remove the fuse to the CEL from the fuse box under the hood. He said it was easier than unhooking the battery terminal. Check for the posts in here first.

Upper air intake manifold gaskets. They can leak, the seals that is, causing a vacuum loss. I know this because I had my mechanic check my vehicle out for this type of problem, but mine were fine. I had no CEL or codes. He told me it would take him most of the day to do this type of repair. He mentioned it being around a $500 job but that can vary from place to place.

 

[Pontisteve]

Cleaning the MAF is an excellent idea to do periodically. Low cost, good results. It is true that the 4.0 engines are somewhat known for intake gasket leaks. With a scan tool hooked up and starting on a cold engine, you'll see large fuel trims when the engine is cold, and the trims go down as the engine warms up and the gasket partially seals better. But seeing this requires a scan tool looking at the STFT's and LTFTs in live datastream.

To stick with simple things you can do without much knowledge or fancy tools, pull the MAF off and clean it with MAF cleaner. Spray the 2 little diode looking things inside the MAF tube particularly. Do be careful not to touch those wires directly with anything, as they are very fragile.

Changing the fuel filter never hurts. The E10 gas we are most often stuck running (contains up to 10% ethanol) really sucks, and tends to deteriorate the fuel filters faster than before. If the filter starts coming apart internally, that can send junk to your injectors.

What's not often known is that the injectors have little fine filters themselves. This helps prevent them from getting clogged internally, but their filters being clogged just stops the fuel from getting into them in the first place, and the end result is the same, bad. Seafoam probably helps to break down any junk in these filter buckets, to where the injector can pass the junk thru. Like passing a kidney stone.

Don't have the injectors professionally cleaned by running injector flush under high pressure thru them. While it probably does help clean the injectors, the O2 sensors get contaminated with this chemical, and if they go bad you're spending $100+ to fix them.

The O2s have a range of about + or - 25% fuel correction. This means these sensors are critical to be in good shape. They should be replaced every 100k or so with nothing but factory replacements from the dealership. Don't go parts store brand here!

There is a ton of mileage to be had in getting a fresh set of O2 sensors, and cleaning the MAF. O2's can be diagnosed by watching the O2 sweeps using a fast scan tool. This is generally not a code: good or bad type situation, unless they are really bad. Remember, the O2 just reports to the PCM how little or much excess oxygen is in the exhaust. Any exhaust leaks can really screw this up, and should be fixed with high priority. But what I'm saying is just because the motor is rich or lean doesn't mean the O2s reporting this indicates a bad O2. The motor might really be rich or lean, as opposed to an O2 sensor being bad.

 

[hatecars]

So it turns out cleaning the MAF didn't fix the problem..

Now I am the same issue(car dies when I make sharp turns) plus, when vehicle is in idle the engine revs all by itself (RPMs go between 500-2000) constantly then vehicle shuts down and says something about "system management recharge"..

Is this still something to do with the vacuum system? I am about to go change spark plugs and fuel filter, not sure it will help but needs it done anyways.

Neighbor also mentioned possible cause: a bad Throttle Position sensor...

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>>>Now I am the same issue(car dies when I make sharp turns) plus, when vehicle is in idle the engine revs all by itself (RPMs go between 500-2000) constantly then vehicle shuts down and says something about "system management recharge"..>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

From what I've read about them, EGR valves can cause idle issues and stalling problems when they don't work right. There is a way of checking them out by removing the vacuum hose to EGR valve and seeing if the engine runs smoother while it idles. If it does run smoother, it usually means a bad EGR valve. Double check this info prior to trying this since I have never done this myself, I just read about it online.

 

[Pontisteve]

The EGR valve is supposed to open only in the following conditions: engine warmed up, and rpm's above idle at part throttle, but never at full throttle. Basically, only when you're cruising. EGR puts burned exhaust gases back into the intake manifold, and this helps with mileage and emissions. EGR valves by nature get carboned up over time. If this carbon causes the EGR valve to stick open, it can result in a serious stumble at idle.

The EGR valve gets vacuum from the intake, with an EGR valve solenoid in line. This solenoid makes or breaks the vacuum connection to the motor, depending on what the PCM commands it to do. A simple way to check to see if the EGR valve is sticking is to apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve via a vacuum gun. If you don't have a gun, bypass the egr solenoid and that will hook vacuum up directly all the time. As soon as you apply vacuum to the EGR valve at idle, the engine will immediately run like crap. If it's already running like crap because of a stuck EGR, then I guess you won't see a difference.

You can remove the EGR valve and clean it with carb cleaner and a brush. That doesn't cost much, just a can of carb cleaner and a new EGR valve gasket. Sometimes you can ever reuse the gasket if you take it off carefully. Not a bad idea to do, but I doubt this is your problem.

What do you mean it says system management recharge?? I have never heard of that. What's saying it, and what exactly is it saying?

Both of your engine codes mean that both engine banks are lean. This generally means you should be looking at either vacuum leaks, bad intake gaskets, rips or tears or loose clamps in the air inlet tubing, etc. Any time air gets into the motor without having to go thru the MAF sensor, it's unmetered air, and that is a problem. The engine won't know that air is in there, so it won't add any fuel for it, and voila you have a lean condition.

Another possibility is a lack of fuel pressure, a clogged fuel filter, a bad fuel pump, a bad fuel pressure regulator, etc.

If you had the right tools, I would say do a fuel pressure test first, and a visual inspection of the air inlet tubing for holes or loose clamps... any leaks. If that isn't it, I would get a can of brakleen, and in the morning when the vehicle is cold, I would start it up and spray small amounts of brakleen onto the intake gaskets. Any rise in RPM indicates the motor sucked in the brakleen thru a vacuum leak, and shows your problem area. Intake gaskets are known to be an issue on 4.0 engines, especially when the motor is cold.

The TPS could be a problem, but I doubt it. Lets leave that test for later. A TPS problem will cause a rolling idle, but usually not a lean code. Think vacuum leaks. Check the PCV valve and grommet too. If you haven't already cleaned the IAC valve, you can try that as well. Not going to fix a lean condition, but could help idle stability.

 

[hatecars]

Ok so I replaced the fuel filter... No difference...

The vehicle in park only, revs the rpms from 500-2000 3-5x then dies. Sounds like its "choking to death", like it can't get enough power..

I plan on replaciing the spark plugs tomorrow to see if that makes a difference

 

[waskly]

changed or cleaned the iac?

 

[hatecars]

The EGR valve is supposed to open only in the following conditions: engine warmed up, and rpm's above idle at part throttle, but never at full throttle. Basically, only when you're cruising. EGR puts burned exhaust gases back into the intake manifold, and this helps with mileage and emissions. EGR valves by nature get carboned up over time. If this carbon causes the EGR valve to stick open, it can result in a serious stumble at idle.

The EGR valve gets vacuum from the intake, with an EGR valve solenoid in line. This solenoid makes or breaks the vacuum connection to the motor, depending on what the PCM commands it to do. A simple way to check to see if the EGR valve is sticking is to apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve via a vacuum gun. If you don't have a gun, bypass the egr solenoid and that will hook vacuum up directly all the time. As soon as you apply vacuum to the EGR valve at idle, the engine will immediately run like crap. If it's already running like crap because of a stuck EGR, then I guess you won't see a difference.

You can remove the EGR valve and clean it with carb cleaner and a brush. That doesn't cost much, just a can of carb cleaner and a new EGR valve gasket. Sometimes you can ever reuse the gasket if you take it off carefully. Not a bad idea to do, but I doubt this is your problem. How hard is this to do? I am a novice of sorts (brakes, spark plugs, fuel filter today)?

What do you mean it says system management recharge?? Where my digital info is (mileage, mpg, trip etc) it says something "system recharge" or something like that (it flashes really quickly)I have never heard of that. What's saying it, and what exactly is it saying?

Both of your engine codes mean that both engine banks are lean. This generally means you should be looking at either vacuum leaks, bad intake gaskets, rips or tears or loose clamps in the air inlet tubing, etc. Any time air gets into the motor without having to go thru the MAF sensor, it's unmetered air, and that is a problem. The engine won't know that air is in there, so it won't add any fuel for it, and voila you have a lean condition.Is it possible that cleaning my MAF sensor didn't do anything because the MAF sensor is bad? How would I check this?

Another possibility is a lack of fuel pressure, a clogged fuel filter, a bad fuel pump, a bad fuel pressure regulator, etc. I think if it any of these I will have to have my mechanic look at it because i wouldn't know where to begin...

If you had the right tools, I would say do a fuel pressure test first, and a visual inspection of the air inlet tubing for holes or loose clamps... any leaks. If that isn't it, I would get a can of brakleen, and in the morning when the vehicle is cold, I would start it up and spray small amounts of brakleen onto the intake gaskets. Any rise in RPM indicates the motor sucked in the brakleen thru a vacuum leak, and shows your problem area. Intake gaskets are known to be an issue on 4.0 engines, especially when the motor is cold.

The TPS could be a problem, but I doubt it. Lets leave that test for later. A TPS problem will cause a rolling idle, but usually not a lean code. Think vacuum leaks. Check the PCV valve and grommet too. If you haven't already cleaned the IAC valve, you can try that as well. Not going to fix a lean condition, but could help idle stability.

 

[hatecars]

changed or cleaned the iac?

What is IAC?

 

[hatecars]

So for giggles, i just went out and unplugged my MAF... The rpms didn't move but the engine did stall..

So i am going to clean my IAC tomorrow and put it new spark plugs and then if nothing else trying buying a new MAF..

 

[Pontisteve]

So for giggles, i just went out and unplugged my MAF... The rpms didn't move but the engine did stall..

So i am going to clean my IAC tomorrow and put it new spark plugs and then if nothing else trying buying a new MAF..

When you unplug the MAF, the PCM looks up the "Load w/ Failed MAF" table, and fuels from it instead. If your truck is bone stock, this is a very accurate table, and the vehicle will run and idle fine. You should also know that MAF failures are not common, and the sensors aren't cheap, and the aftermarket sensors are junk compared to the Ford sensor. Don't buy a MAF, you'll most likely be wasting your money.

You're painting a picture here. You've got both banks lean. The idle surging comes from the lean condition causing the motor to nearly stall. The PCM detects this low rpm, and compensates hard for it, raising the idle via the IAC motor. It overshoots the desired idle rpm, and suddenly the IAC closes and RPM plummets. Then, the whole process repeats. This is the up and down idle speed you're experiencing.

As long as your IAC is clean, and it probably is, this is not your problem. IAC is idle air control motor. It's a solenoid that bolts onto the side of your throttle body.

In searching for a picture of an IAC for you, I ran across this thread that you need to read!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217062

 

[Pontisteve]

You can remove the EGR valve and clean it with carb cleaner and a brush.
How hard is this to do? I am a novice of sorts (brakes, spark plugs, fuel filter today)?

Fairly easy, just unbolt the EGR valve, and clean anything that looks nasty. But this is probably not your problem.

What do you mean it says system management recharge?? Where my digital info is (mileage, mpg, trip etc) it says something "system recharge" or something like that (it flashes really quickly)I have never heard of that. What's saying it, and what exactly is it saying?

Sounds like it may be saying Air Conditioning System Recharge needed, or something like that. The A/C is the only thing on a car that get's "recharged".

Is it possible that cleaning my MAF sensor didn't do anything because the MAF sensor is bad? How would I check this?

You would need to view live data with a good scantool, and look for the airflow to be around .7 lbs per hour at idle, and go up consistently from there, as you raise rpms.