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Engine hesitates with accelerator push...

The PCV and IAC are some of the easiest things to do on the explorer. First off, get a Haynes manual. It should walk you through changing them and doesn't cost very much.
 



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Road trash

what road trash do you mean? how would i get it out? would'nt it go straight into the engine?
 






Sorry guy's i am from Australia is there a place i can by the Haynes manual on the net?
 






Vbtruck:

Go here for the manual information:

http://www.haynes.com/

The IAC is so easy to replace. It is right on top of the air intake hose and it will take all of 5 minutes. Do a search on this forum for "IAC" and you can find pictures and everything. The PCV valve is difficult to get to, so I would suggest just having your mechanic do it for you. The MAF is easy to get to and to clean. You need a special torx security tool to remove it. Again, do a search on this forum under "MAF" or "MAS", and you will find the info there.

Let us know how the truck is doing after the tune up.

Ps. Use GOOD wires and Motorcraft plugs. I learned the hard way!!

JD:D
 






pcv-positive crankcase ventilation
 






I had my plugs and wires done about 6 months ago..I started having hesitation and my cel light came on and it was a missfire in #4..The cause was the garage that put my plugs and wires in.Did not put the wires on correctly and it melted at the egr or whatever.So i bought new plugs and it was recommended to use oem at $115
 






Yup. Im seeing a pattern here.

JD:rolleyes:
 






OK i got the Major service at ford and it cost $1000AUS so i bought the Haynes manual (thanks) the car doesn't seem to be running that much better for though it still hesitates and i cleaned the MAF Throtle and IAC!!!!!
 






vbtruk:

Hey- sorry to hear of your problems. Re-read this entire thread and you might get a hint of what it could be. For 1,000 dollars - couldn't your mechanic help you with your problem? they shouldn't have let you leave without the truck running at it's best. Well, let's see. What's left? Throttle Position Sensor, maybe the injectors are clogged, perhaps the fuel pump. I don't know- just trying to throw stuff at you to think about. Start asking tougher questions with your mechanic. Also, if they diagnosed your problem and did a 1,000 dollars work and it's not fixed, well then I would be telling your mechanic that he diagnosed the problem incorrectly and that he owes you now!

Good luck.

JD:p
 






hey thanks JD those things you mentioned does the haynes manual tell you how to do them or is it better to get the mechanic to do it. OHH and that was a ford dealership that did the service the 3rd one i have been to!
 






Vbtruk:

Im sure the manual has some info on the items mentioned. The TPS I hear is easy to replace - it's right there in the open. A cheap way to clean the injectors is to use this stuff called "Pro Gaurd" by Chevron. It's good stuff. I just can't believe that a Ford mechanic can't find your problem - that just doesn't sound right.

I'm getting angry just thinking about your problem with these mechanics. Just doesn't seem fair after all the money you have spent.

Good luck with it.

JD
 






97 SOHC w/almost 100,000 miles Summary of a bunch of threads and stuff I've done since Thanksgiving.

Disconnect the negative battery cable before attemping anything below.

If you don't have security torx to remove the MAF sensor a pair of needle nose pliers will do especially if the plastic dolup of stuff FORD put on top of the screw so you can't get to it does not come off cleanly. Electronis Parts Cleaner and a gentle hand w/Q-Tip is the recommend way.

TPS Throttle Positioning sensor, It is a litle black thing on the passenger side connected to the Throttle Body (opposite side of the gas cable and spring) It is under $30 buck at NAPA and takes 5 minutes to replace. You need to squeeze the clip to remove the wire connector.

Replace the IAC Idle Air Controller. It is around $60 from http://www.fordpartsnetwork.com/ plus $6 for S&H (no tax outside FL). It is a 4-5 inch long cylinder (silver in color) that sits on top of the throttle body closer to the rear of the engine.

While you have the air intake off, clean the butterfly valve located at the front of the Throttle body. It will open up as you turn the spring or if someone else is pumping the gas pedal (engine off please ;)

While you have your assistant, have them press and hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor. During this time look at the butterfly valve. Does it seem perfectly level? Can you turn the spring/pull the cable a little more to make the butterfly move so that it is horizontal?
If so, then you have slack in your cable (Most FORD vehicles have this "problem") To fix us a zip-tie as a little spacer at the gas pedal where the cable end meets the actual pedal. There are links on this bord with pics.

Back to butter butterfly: It should look clean brassey/copperie [sic] If you see black stuff that looks like photocopier/laser printer toner the you have a carbon buildup.

Use Throttle Body cleaner and clean shop towels to wipe (really scrub ;) all this crap away.

All this stuff is fairly cheap and "almost" anyone can do this.

Chris
My other toy----
www.peake.com/occ
 






hey thanks so much for all your help guy's i have never been a forum where everyone is so willing to help!!!!! i'll try all that stuff this weekend and let you guy's know, i do have carbon build up that need's to go.
And JD i have had numerous problems with the ford dealer's here in AUS i had that diesel engine noise once and they had the car in about 9 times trying to fix it (it was under warranty still back then) they did all sort's of stuff like replace the timming chain tensioner 3 times and then upgrade the tensioner with a bigger one twice, anyway i got so anoyed that i rang Ford head office. They eventually found the problem wich was a faulty iol pump by which stage i was out of warranty (just) and they wanted me to pay $800 so i wrote to Ford america who passed it back to Ford australia anyway they only wanted to warranty half being the part and i had to pay the other half of the amount wich was labour cost's.
How are the Ford dealers over there?
 






Just the same as any other place, really. Once you find a good mechanic you can trust stick with him . Otherwise, start asking around. Most Ford service centers in the states are more expensive than the smaller shops.

JD
 






hey CHUNT thanks for that i will replace the TPS and IAC do i need to take the Throttle body off to clean it or just leave it on?

by the way in my major service ford replaced all the spark plugs and leads, fuel filter, oil/filter and so forth but it still hesitates when accelerating hard but a little better it seem's to happen to me more on HOT day's and on cold day's not so much, could it be to do with the suction of hot air from the motor into the pod filter, anyway i will replace the IAC and TPS and PCV next week and let you guy's know!
 






I see you havent done a code test on the truck . Do yourself a favor , tests the codes , if you dont have one ,then rent one or take it to a dealer . If your trying to figure it out yourself , the first step is to read the on board codes , the computer , usually doesnt lie . Stop guessing . This forum is very informantive. Unless you dont mind replacing every sensor in your truck . By the time your done with all these suggestions , you still may have the same prob . No disrespect to the suggestion already , and there great as usual , but you gotta do a little more home work. Get more data!!!!!Parts can be expensive and a good scan would be better. Lets just make sure , k. post your reply with the scans.
 






When you take off the air intake tube you will see the front of the throttle body including the butterfly valve. This is where you you will see carbon and can check to see if the valve opens completely when to stomp on the gas pedal. Unlike some rigs, X's will run with the air intake off and you can spray TB cleaner into a running engine. Read the directions on the can.

I agree with strike about codes but for inexpensive parts that you can replace in under 5 minutes that others have had problems is just too tempting. I mean I like working on the old stuff that barely has a computer. Here is me not with the rubber side down....;)

http://www.peake.com/occ/2002MainJamboEvent/Trail6b1iWasNotDriving.JPG

Chris
 






ok thank's chunt.
 






Chunt :Holy **** Did anyone get hurt in that ? Looks like it was a nice rig though.

vbtruk: Well I guess if you dont have means to check for codes . Id say your TPS is bad . I dont think its your IAC , because you didnt mention any idle quality problems . My second guess would be o2 sensors , because you said its more so when its warm , 02 sensors dont come into the picture until they reach a certain temp. My last stab at it would be a faulty ECT sensor , if they go bad , youll have many driveability problems . AS today , I just fixed a later model 302 , and the customer complaint was sometimes started ok , then sometimes wouldnt start at all and would hesitate and had poor gas mileage , it also stallled sometimes . I checked the coolant sensor and it was way out of range , telling the engine it was colder than it actually was , but it didnt fail completely , probably a non oem part that just sucked. So I replaced it and cleared the codes , do this cause your computor needs to get rid of those crappy settings it had to compesate for the bad parts . Test drove and really wasnt happy with the idle quality after a load test , It didnt recover very well , pulled the IAC and found it was carboned up kinda bad . Cleaned it with TB cleaner and reinstalled it and it ran perfect. This is just a little input on some more aggrevating problems Ive run into . Out of all this i purchased a ETC sensor $15 , I new it was bad , and $3 on tb cleaner , instead of $45 for a new IAC , just cleaned it . Thats why I say if you can get a code tester , please do . If you cant , then some of the suggestions could help .
Good Luck and Keep us posted , so we can help others.
 



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what is the ETC sensor? where?
thank's i am getting that haynes manual soon!
 






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