engine knock after top end rebuild | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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engine knock after top end rebuild

sorry, havent been able to post due to javascrpit problems. heres the update: everything is the same. i checked all the vac lines, and decided against messing with the throttle screw to set the idle since its going to the shop.

i dont think my car has a camshaft position sensor. i know it has a crankshaft position sensor though. im super positive that theres no way i could have messed up the timing, but im not ruling anything out.

Pull the octane plug and run it.see if it still does it first
 



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not sure where the cps would be heres my timing chain after replacement of the parts
20140106_171006_zpsbc50dded.jpg
 






not sure where the cps would be heres my timing chain after replacement of the parts
20140106_171006_zpsbc50dded.jpg

Obviously they are not straight up and down but if the crank was it looks like they would be off.that not a poc of what was tdc and them aligned correct?? (Have to ask)

Cps(cam) is on the back of the engine. .
 






you can see the timing marks have just been turned slightly past alignment- but they rotate towards each other and were perfect right before i took out the crank bolt that i had re threaded to help get everything set
 






you can see the timing marks have just been turned slightly past alignment- but they rotate towards each other and were perfect right before i took out the crank bolt that i had re threaded to help get everything set

Idk the cam looks to be one tooth off to me.any other pics??
 






Yea there is no way those are aligned if they are just slightly turned.if you turn the crank counter clockwise to bring the lower dot on the crank to the 12:00 position it would spin the cam counterclockwise moving the dot towards more of the 3:00 position.even after you spin it counterclockwise you would need to spin it past 12:00 (crank) then back to 12:00 to take the tension out..
 






Or wait I need to view this on a real screen.because I just remembered I think the dot is above the key on the crank..what looks to be a dot on my phone is not above the key in this pic...may disregard what I just said.....ill look later at home..
 






when i was preparing to take out the timing chain gear i rotated the marks to be in line with each other while i locked the crank into position. both the crcank and the cam have tabs so the crank pulley and the timing gear cant go on any defferently.

am i wrong in assuming that as long as the crank was locked while i took the timing chain off and replaced the gear that it wouldnt matter when i put the new one on?

neither the cam nor crank moved while i took the chain off. also, it idles nicely and really smooth in park and neutral. would the sputtering in driver and reverse be the result of a mistimed engine?
 






when i was preparing to take out the timing chain gear i rotated the marks to be in line with each other while i locked the crank into position. both the crcank and the cam have tabs so the crank pulley and the timing gear cant go on any defferently.

am i wrong in assuming that as long as the crank was locked while i took the timing chain off and replaced the gear that it wouldnt matter when i put the new one on?

neither the cam nor crank moved while i took the chain off. also, it idles nicely and really smooth in park and neutral. would the sputtering in driver and reverse be the result of a mistimed engine?

Just depends. .what I can see on my phone plus the drinks I have may not be the mark.I swear the dot was above the key..

Do you know where or what the octane plug is?? Have you tried removing it?
 






no neither. i tried searching but it brought me back to this thread lol
 












O and what I thought was a timing dot wasnt. ..lol
 






well as of 30 mins ago i had it towed to the dealership. i didnt tell them that the heads are from a 98 or that i had canged the timing chain stuff, but i did tell them about all the stuff i replaced stock. of course as soon as the ex gets loaded, the lower radiator hose starts to leak.... it was too late for me to tighten the screw on the band before the guy drove away. hopefully the dealer remembers to tighten and top off before they come to me with anything lol
 






so update from the dealer: said he adjusted my "firing order" which i think means he switched some psark plug wires around. he said its running and to come get it.. not even gonna charge me.

of course i am suspicious as my experience with bringing my car to the dealer has been they want to get rid of it as fast as possible. so, ill put some extra zipties on the egr hoses and hope it actually runs like they say it will
 






Man hope it was that simple.
 












ok, serious question: i never bled the power steering system after i replaced the pump and hoses, even though i did fill it up.

can i drive home on the freeway and bleed it at home or should i have them do it for like 70 bucks.
 






Ive never had to ""bleed"" a power steering on a first gen.idk how you would even do that..
 






i made it back ok. i thought after the power steering system drained you had to bleed it by having the cap off anf turning the wheels back and forth till bubbles stopped showing up in the fill tube. it ran fine, only hard part was putting the hood into the back of a scion xa and re attatching it in the dark. i got it to align well enough to close but ill have to do a better job tomorrow with more light.

it did fine on the freeway, and im wondering if theres any way to test the cooling system's efficiency in a controlled way. just so i dont get surprised on a hot day in traffic or something
 



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Was there anything wrong with the cooling system to begine with? What makes you think it wouldnt be up to pair now?you could always step up to a HD fan and clutch but will hurt mpg if its not needed
 






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