Engine Removal | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Engine Removal

markyta

New Member
Joined
February 9, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Brooklyn, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004
I have a 2004 Explorer with a 4.0. I have low compression in cylinder #2. After looking what its like to work on the timing chain and cams, it may be better to replace the engine. I was looking through a manual and its saying that the transmission must be removed first. Does anyone know how true this is?
 



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Whenever i removed an engine working for Lexus (i know not a ford) we removed the transmission first then the engine....Only a few applications did allow me to remove both at the same time....its all about clearance in the trans tunnel and bellhousing cutout in the fire wall. Applications differ follow the manual when in doubt
 






All I want to do is pull off the RH cylinder head. I cant believe what a nightmare it is with the timing chain and all the special tools you need. It looked easier to do with the engine out, but according to Ford's service manual, the tranny must come out. I think this is one job i'm going to pass on!
Of course the misfire started happening just after the warranty expired. Ford says the misfire is from a bad head and wants $4000 to fix it! Im running out of options.
 






I believe the trans can stay in the vehical but must be disconnected from the engine block, I don't believe there is enough clearence to pull both the engine and trans out together.

I can't see why you must drop the trans also, I would unbolt it from engine and losen its mount to move it around when need be. I plan on replacing the timing chains in the near future and i'm just going to pull the engine. From what I've read the trans doesn't need to come out but I could be wrong on this. CDW would know.
 






You could do what frick suggested and unbolt the tranny, but leave it in there, just moving it around some for clearances. But honestly, it will probably be harder to do that then it will be to drop the tranny and have it out of the way.
Dropping the tranny is significantly easier then pulling the engine. If you feel uncomfortable dropping the tranny then you certainly don't have enough confidence to pull an engine, IMHO.
 






This is a 3rd gen we're talking about though. You wouldn't think the trans would need to be dropped just unbolted, I haven't seen the inside the engine bay of a 3rd gen but the trans could be more in the engine bay than under the truck its self and may require the trans be pushed more towards the rear for the motor to pull up out, you may also be able to take the front end body parts off for an easier motor pull.
 






Good point Glen, man I gotta start paying attention to the years, lol.
 






I just changed mine out. If you have changed an motor before its not very hard. I read the same thing about the tranny but you do not have to remove it first but you will need to support it as the front will fall down a few inches. No big deal when taking it out put when you put it back in you will need to jack it up.

The hardest part was disconnecting the exhaust (would have been easy with a torch) and getting the fan off.

You also do not need to remove the radiator, plenty of room with it in there.

You will need to remove the intake and that was no fun as it uses a torx bit (30 I think) but the darn things get full of crap and the back ones are hard to get to. I ended up using an easy out for 2 of them.

One of the tranny bolts was had to get to (pass side near the top) its easier to get it from the top after you remove the intake.

Let me know if you run into problems I should be able to help.
 






I think I saw that the point of all this was to replace the timing chains.

I am considering replacing mine preventively, and am hoping to do this job with the engine in the truck. I would rather pull off the front sheet metal that lift the engine in a modern car (too old school, I guess).
 






It was really pretty easy, cheap too 750 for a low mile one. Only took about 3 days taking my time (and a beer or two) would have been 2 days but for the exhaust bolts and fan (its NOT reverse threads LOL)
 






The timing chain replacement requires all kinds of crazy tools as does the head removal. I've done many motors and this one doesnt look too hard. I also found motors for about 800, so thats not too bad. I bought the CD from Ford on Ebay for eight bucks and it answered alot of questions. Thanx for all your feedback everyone.
 






How sad is it that its easier to replace a motor then it is to replace a friggin timing chain LOL
 






So your saying you didn't take out transfer case, axles, driveshaft like the manual says?? I need to replace my engine and there's not many tips out there.
 






I have removed/replaced numerous engines WITH the transmission still ATTACHED to the engine, but never an Explorer. The trick is to have the ability to TILT the engine/trans. upward in the front sufficiently as the assembly is moved forward and upward. The vehicle must be sufficiently up off the ground to allow the tail end of the trans. to go low enough to allow the steep angle needed. Radiator and as much as possible of other stuff in the way must be removed first.

Doing this in such fashion, of course, imposes a very heavy weight on your lifting means. The last such effort I did was a 5.0L HO Mustang engine with an AOD transmission attached to it, installed in a '79 Ranchero.

My 72 Bronco was also done this way, with trans. AND transfer case attached to the 5.0L engine. Advantage to the method is that the transmission of course is not left to be supported within the vehicle by itself, and without floor support under it, the empty vehicle may be wheeled back out of the way easily.

Once or twice, clearances/crossmembers interference required more room in front of the radiator, requiring removal of radiator support structure. Some Ford products have such structure bolted-in, but they are few. Ford calls the crosspiece to which the hood latches when closed, BTW, the "Lock Dowel Support". imp
 






I wAnted to leave trans in vehicle but the book says it has to come out first??
 






If you are doing any timing chain work on the right bank the engine must be removed and separated from the transmission.
 






I have a 2ncd gen, 1999. I removed my engine to replace the timing components and re-installed it. I do not know how much difference there is between the 2ncd gen and 3rd gen, but on mine, there was no reason to completly remove the transmission, let alone touch the transfer case or driveshafts.

I simply supportted the trans with a bottle jack, and unbolted it (torque converter must be undone from flexplate through starterhole also) Un-bolt exhuast from headers, (repeatedly soak the bolts with pb blaster for a few days, makes all the difference). It was necessary to remove the radiator on mine, made a ton more room to work for somthing fairly easy to remove.I detached the Power steering AND A/C pumps together as a unit, and did NOT undo any of the lines, just set them off to the side. Then its just unhooking wires, vaccuum lines, fuel line and things like that and paying attention as you do it. When you've checked 5 times, connect hoist (after removing hood), add tension, undo motor mounts AND plates, and hoist away.

OH!! Make sure you remove your OIL FILTER before you attempt to remove the engine, this gets snagged and is a huge pain in the ass to get off after its already damaged and leaking oil all over the place... ask me how i know....:rolleyes: I was warned of this by someone and i still forgot to do it.

IF you have the time and are not rushed, it really is not incredibly difficult if you pay attention and label/organize bolts and wires etc.

Below is a link to when i did my removal, and replaced timing components. However, it is by far NOT a step by step. But it may help you, and STREETROD has an incredible knowledge base of the 4.0 SOHC.

Good luck!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300579
 












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