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Engine running rough, while air is on!

OK now i am getting real sick to daeth with this ****! i got a torque wrench and it doesn't make sence i am supose to twist the botom half but i can't figure it out and on the lowest setting it still seem's to be bolting it to hard so i might need another one does anyone know why it won't seal properly! it'll be the 5th time a pull it apart tommorow to try and fix those f-ing gasket's
 



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Did you buy a inch torque wrench or a foot pound torque wrench . Youll need a inch pound torque wrench to tighten them to 123 inch pounds not foot pounds , you could crush or break a few things at 123 ft lbs. Also make sure the o-rings didnt shift when insatlling them . Try not to move the manifold when bolting it down , otherwise the o-ring could shift causing a manifold leak. When you torque them start from the center and work your way outwards First torque them to about 50 in-lbs , then start again and torque them to final torque of 123 in lbs . BTW the in-lbs torque wrench will probably be a 3/8 drive .
 






ok strike but the o rings are real hard to keep from shifting when initaly putting the lower intake back in as it is so tight and i need to squeeze it in there but how tight should the upeer intake be and it is also real hard to keep from moving when initally installing it back becasue of that ****y ECT but i'll try, any other tips?
thank's
 






I have 53 to 62 inch lbs for the upper intake . Just curious did they clear the codes for you? Was the codes cleared after you changed the o-rings? Did the x run better after you changed them or the same?
 






Strike thanks i heard it was about 5ft lbs(50 inch lbs) for upper intake! Ford did clear the codes and the truck ran just the same after i changes them and the CEL came back on after 45 minutes both times so i disconnect the battery every time that i do it and that clears the CEL.
i will get a better torque wrench and try again let you know! but if all else fails i will just add SILICON GASKET MAKER/SEALER TO THE GASKETS AND SEE IF THAT WORKS.
also can i use VALVOLINE SYN power steering fluid or have to be mercon v? i have searched but with not much of an answer? and can i use a different tranny fluid than mercon v as in AUSTRALIA we don't have AMSOIL products and FORD charge heaps for MERCON V?
 






This my understanding of the OBDII system . You have to use a special scan tool , such as the dealers use .A matter of fact if you disconnect the battery , itll erase stored operating parameters and the truck will run rough for a period of time until the computer relearns the info . The OBDI systems you can clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for a short time. If your truck is 96 or newer you have the OBDII system . You may have to run the truck for a while to see if the problem is better.
 






As far as the fluids , I wouldnt use anything but what the manufacture recommends , which is mercon fluids for both . You dont have to to use Fords brand mercon .
 






NO IT'S DEFINATLY NOT RIGHT COS AFTER I REPLACED THE GASKETS AND FORD CHECKED AND CLEARED THE CODE IT STILL CAME BACK WITH A CEL FOR THE SAME PROBLEM AND I PULLED IT APART AND CLEANED AND RE DID IT BUT THE SAME THING HAPPENED AFTER FORD WIPPED THE CODE.
I'LL TRY AGAIN.
 






Hey strike you know what really suks here in AUS i can only buy MERCON grade fluid from ford because none of the other companies have a Mercon fluid in there range here. that really stinks, and Ford want $20 per litre so to flush the whole system i'll need 8-9 litres of Mercon ATF
 






How much to get it shipped from a online store or Amsoil . Might be alot cheaper.
 






Strike i am waiting for a reply but with your shipping rates i think it will be a lot!!!
Anyway stupidly enough i have screwed to hard in to the lower intake manifold and stuffed the thread on the 2 centre screws how can i fix this??? should i use some type of solvent or a bigger screw????
 






Not sure what you meant as far as the two center bolts .Did you strip the treads out by over torqueing or did you mean something else? Stripped threads can be repaired by installing a heili-coil , bought at most auto stores . Will have to be drilled over size , taped out , then the heili-coil installed . Should come with instructions . Just make sure you get the right size. Take one of the bolts with you . If you meant something else , please repost.
 






Oh , I was looking at several synthetics and they cover a wide range of fluids . dextron , atf , mecron , mecronV . So Im thinking a synthetic will be your best bet. If you can get it .
 






Yeah strike you got it right the 2 centre screws that bolt down the uper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold! Thanks, i'll get that heli coil although i have never heard of them i just hope they sell them over here and my prob should be fixed.
Thank's heaps Strike.
 






i am so ready to kill this INTAKE MAINIFOLD it just won't seal tight!!!! i can't use helli coil's on the upper intake manifold as they are deep and it wont work and now 2 of the lower intake bolt's to the block are not torquing so i'll need heli coil's for that i am starting to get really pissed off.
 






Hows the condition of the bolt threads , or are there some threads actually missing out of the bolt holes? The heli coils wont work because the hole is too deep ? They should work though , I never ran into a problem using them before . I may have never ran into a situation like yours before , I guess . Well if they wont work and theyre stripped , you should be able to find a welding or machine shop that can reweld the aluminum , drill and retap them . As far as the block the heli coils should definitely work .

Sorry your having such a rough time with this x , wish I lived closer I could give you a hand .
 






Strike thanks so much for your help! i should get it sooner or later. I wish you were here to, it's my own fault to begin with i shouldn't have stuffed around with it so much!!!! anyway i might get a next size up screw for the upper intake manifold to grip the plastic better or use bolts i'll have to see but the block will need to be done with thread insert's the thread doesn't look all that bad but it just keeps turning and won't torque, it hing maybe this is cause i worked on it while the block was still warm. Anyway if you have any more ideas please let me know. Oh and ford wanted $2000 for a new lower intake plenum so i said F$@K that idea!!! Anyway i wont give up i am still trying. Just one question? when i do fix it after dissconectting the BATERY is it possible for the CEL to come back on as it is a memory code that need's to be wiped with the FORD scanner on my OBD II????
 






Strike just one more thing, i found an AMSOIL dealer here and there stuff is $2.00 a litre cheaper than the Ford MERCON V so i'll be converting next month.
 






Someone correct me if Im wrong , but on a obdII system you can only clear with a scanner . a obdI system you can do it by disconnecting the battery . I think you can clear the codes by disconnecting the battery , but the truck may run rough for a while til the computer relearns.
 



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Thanks heaps for all you help guy's esspically Strike "I FIXED IT" leaking o ring's and the MAF sensor replaced so she run's like new and purring like a kitten she run's real nice now to pulls real hard!
Thanks guys.
 






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