Engine takes several cranks to start

[PEAR0119]

I am not sure if this is a potential issue or not but it's certainly a concern at the moment. Lately the Explorer is taking a more than normal amount of cranks for the engine to start. Usually it starts in 1 or 2 rolls of the engine, but lately its taking about 4-5 rolls of the engine to finally start. once started the engine runs perfectly with no indications of any issues at all. Also, when starting the engine I always leave the key in the "ON" position for a second or two to allow the fuel system to pressurize before attempting to start the engine.

So my question then to the Explorer community would be, is this a reason to be concerned? And if so, where would be the first place to start looking for issues?

 

[nleipziger]

Mine does the exact same thing with 158K on the odometer. I'll be interested in any replies.

 

[Rcflyer330]

I have a 2010 Ford Explorer V6 90k miles and I have noticed that when it's colder out it likes to take a few more cranks to start than if it it warm out. Last winter when it was in the negatives some times it would take even longer to start. In my case I think it is just the starting battery being really cold and starting to weaken from being 4 years old.

 

[PEAR0119]

Currently I have about 65k miles on mine and I am still on original plugs and wire, so I am wondering if I should be replacing these at some point soon. Also, my air filter is a bit dirty but shouldn't be causing this issue. I might be able to attribute it to the 6 month old gas that's in it, but that can be a long shot.

Looks like I am going to be doing some routine maintenance soon.

 

[wifes2011xlt]

Another vote for battery's response to weather but could also be battery losing cold cranking amps due to bad plates. Next time you're near a parts store, stop in and ask them to run a conduciveness test on your battery to measure cranking amps, particularly cold cranking amps. It's free.

 

[PEAR0119]

Another vote for battery's response to weather but could also be battery losing cold cranking amps due to bad plates. Next time you're near a parts store, stop in and ask them to run a conduciveness test on your battery to measure cranking amps, particularly cold cranking amps. It's free.

Sounds like a plan. I have had such bad luck with batteries in this truck, I mean I am on my 3rd battery in 4 years. If I need a replacement what would your recommendations be? I am starting to get annoyed with cheap batteries.

 

[wifes2011xlt]

Sounds like you have bigger problems than the type or brand of battery you're installing. I would get your alternator and regulator tested (for free) too. If those check ok, then I would suspect a bad connection somewhere or some parasitic draw, neither of which are any fun to diagnose.

 

[PEAR0119]

Sounds like you have bigger problems than the type or brand of battery you're installing. I would get your alternator and regulator tested (for free) too. If those check ok, then I would suspect a bad connection somewhere or some parasitic draw, neither of which are any fun to diagnose.

Well, it's probably has more to do with the fact that it sits for about 5-6 months straight during the summer. It is stored in doors with a trickle charger on it but the battery always ends up completely dead and refuses to take a charge. Over the past 2 winters I have always had the airbag light stay on during cold start-ups which would indicate a bad battery, but in fact it is a brand new battery.

 

[wifes2011xlt]

Manual or automatic charger?

 

[PEAR0119]

Manual or automatic charger?

automatic. Right now I am running an EverMaxx battery from Wal-mart, which seems to be better than the motomaster batteries from Canadian Tire (Gotta love living in Canada).

 

[wifes2011xlt]

Best bet would be to use a smart charger or manually plug/unplug your automatic charger as needed. Leaving a battery plugged into a charger for 6 months at a time, even at a trickle charge, could overcharge your battery, which then could lead to shorter lifespan, which sounds like you're all to familiar with.

 

[magnawake]

My 07 EB 4x4 has 138K and its cranking longer than it used to. I was concerned too nut I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, air filter and it still cranks long. It used to just fire right up. Thats the reason Im on here looking. No results.

 

[Boomyal]

Best bet would be to use a smart charger or manually plug/unplug your automatic charger as needed. Leaving a battery plugged into a charger for 6 months at a time, even at a trickle charge, could overcharge your battery, which then could lead to shorter lifespan, which sounds like you're all to familiar with.

He needs a FLOAT CHARGER, not a trickle charger. All you need to do, for a good battery, is to keep a few electrons moving around during long periods of inactivity. I have a half dozen Harbor Freight float chargers. I use them on my boat, my Mustang, my Suburban and my forklift battery.

I seldom have a battery failure any more.

 

[Boomyal]

...another thing I would try, re, the start issue, is to turn the key on and wait a few seconds before turning it to start. You could have a fuel pressure bleed down. Go a week with waiting for 30 seconds before you start and see if that makes a difference.

If it was a battery issue, you would be able to hear a reduction in turnover speed.

 

[PEAR0119]

I don't have a reduction in turnover speed, it's kinda weird as it now only happens some times. And my train of thought on that is the fact sometimes I leave the key in the run position before starting and other times I just go and start without waiting a bit in the "run" position.

Currently I have 104,000 km (around 62k miles), so plugs and wires shouldn't be an issue at this point, but couldn't hurt I guess.

 

[nleipziger]

Well folks, I had the same problem as first stated. Much longer cranking time to start. Started every time but took longer. Yesterday the battery died completely so off to Walmart for a 850CCA battery for $109. About $50 cheaper than Advanced or Autozone and it was a battery made in the USA by Johnson Controls. Starting problem solved! Starts up in about 1/2 second. I would not have suspected the battery.....

 

[magnawake]

Glad to hear someone finally had good results. Mine is still having the same problems cranking so I guess I'll need to buy another battery also. When cranking sometimes I let off the key too early and it coughes, like a misfire. No codes show up though.

 

[banditxp]

Glad to hear someone finally had good results. Mine is still having the same problems cranking so I guess I'll need to buy another battery also. When cranking sometimes I let off the key too early and it coughes, like a misfire. No codes show up though.

let the key off too early? i my 08 V8 i can just quickly turn the key to start and let go and it will finish's starting on its own. its just like a push button start in most newer cars/trucks. unless the V6's are different?

 

[magnawake]

let the key off too early? i my 08 V8 i can just quickly turn the key to start and let go and it will finish's starting on its own. its just like a push button start in most newer cars/trucks. unless the V6's are different?

My 4.0 is different. You need to keep pressure on the key turning it just like older cars. Once it starts, then let off the key.

 

[matsavol]

let the key off too early? i my 08 V8 i can just quickly turn the key to start and let go and it will finish's starting on its own. its just like a push button start in most newer cars/trucks. unless the V6's are different?

That's interesting... My 06 V8 definitely does not work like this: It will stop cranking immediately after releasing the key. Maybe they did change the behavior between the model years?