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Error Code P 0301 ???

McSlug

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City, State
Perth Western Australia
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Explorer
Error Code P 0301 ??? Done more work.

Pulled a stored code today P0301 cyl 1 misfire

No Cel light on and this was the only code stored.

I did timing and intake gasket repairs 3 months ago and battery was disconnected for well over a week. I have not tried to pull a code since then and the Cel has never come on since the fix.

I have had the occasional misfire maybe two or three but only ever one miss and weeks in between to the next.

In the last week, after 4x4ing on some rough limestone tracks, bottoming out on a few deep ridges and working hard in some soft beach sand, I can now hear a muffled sucking/fluttering type sound. If I give it too much gas it will start to break or choke down. It doesn't shudder it just go's p p p p p p p until it picks up speed. The sucking sound is syncronius with this at the time and is only there when driving under load. Not when free revving. On normal acceleration the sucking sound is constant.

Any Ideas?????
 



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It almost sounds to me like you blew out the intake gaskets again! That would explain the missfire and the sucking sound also the power loss under load! Also you might want to check for a cracked head!
 






I believe a leaking intake gasket would trip the cel.
There is no power loss unless I give it too much gas. If I feed the accelerator right it will take off like a shot and continue to accelerate with out issue. It cruises at 110klm/h with out batting an eyelid. But the sucking is still there.
If I where to coast down the road and rev the engine but not enough to pick up the speed the sound is not there. If I rev the engine to pick up speed the sound is there.
No problem with idle either steady 900rpm
Anyone help with the code???? P 0301 or does this just mean "misfire on cylinder 1 work out the rest for yourself"
 






Compression test

Ok. I have pulled the plug on #1. Looks fine. All plugs and leads where replaced 1 year ago and have about 10k klm's on them.

Did compression test on all cylinders (dry) before fitting them and just finished compression test (dry) on #1 160 psi same as 1 year ago.

I am going to swap lead next just to eliminate that.

Don't want to pull intake yet. I do have spare gaskets but I'm not convinced it's the issue and I cant diagnose with carby cleaner as there is no problem with idle or free revving.

J-RodG: Thanks for your input but could you and my father please refrain from mentioning my vehicle and a cracked head in the same sentence!!!!

It doesn't have a cracked head, It doesn't have a cracked head, It doesn't have a cracked head!!!!
It better not have a cracked head!!!!!!!!
 






Forget last post

I am going to redo my compression test. I did not perform it at wot.
Also I now think that my compression was 190psi and not 160psi when first performed 1 year ago.
I think I will test all cylinders. Wet and dry.

Anyone help with compression spec's?? I believe 160 is close to out of spec.


I replaced my front timing components recently without the timing tools. I now have them, so I think I will bite the bullet, pull the valve covers, and correct the timing. This may not solve the issue but it should be done anyway.
I have had a nagging feeling about the timing being the cause of my problem, but this to me (with my limited knowledge) would explain only half of my symptoms.
 






That's better

Dry compression test on #1. 180psi
Off to do the rest.
 






Nooooooooo

Compression check on 1,2,3 180,170,150 respectively. performed @ WOT
 






Just found this.

.
IMAGE_090.jpg


Is this where my sucking sound is coming from? Guess I'll repair and see.
Any one know the function. It goes around the back of the intake and across the left valve cover and down to somewhere.(on my right hand drive not the side with the coil pack).
It's a faded orange kinda colour
 






Put a bit of oil in #3 and got 160psi up from 150.
 






.
IMAGE_090.jpg


Is this where my sucking sound is coming from? Guess I'll repair and see.
Any one know the function. It goes around the back of the intake and across the left valve cover and down to somewhere.(on my right hand drive not the side with the coil pack).
It's a faded orange kinda colour

repaired no change
 






Cam timing & misfire

If your camshaft timing were out of specification all cylinders on one bank would be equally affected.

Your compression decreases from front to rear. That could be a sign of a failed head gasket. It's too bad you don't know what it was before your problem started for comparison purposes. I would check the compression on the driver side for comparison.

The misfire code was for cylinder #1 which has the highest compression. I doubt it is camshaft timing related. The PCM monitors the power output pulse for each cylinder and reports a misfire when one varies signficantly. Misfires are usually due to ignition, fuel injection or compression. Have you tried adding fuel injector cleaner to the fuel tank?

Does the engine hesitation occur at any specific rpm? You may want to check the vacuum hose to the variable intake vacuum actuator and the linkage from the vacuum actuator to the intake runner control lever. Also check the vacuum hose to the VIS vacuum reservoir.
 






Stuck in 4x4

Thanks Street. but first. I think my problem is related to being stuck in 4wd.
I will fix this issue first and I think the noise will go away. Then I will investigate compression issue further.
Before I went for a test drive I noticed the sound when parked in the shed. At idle it wasn't there but when I shifted into reverse with the foot on the brake. I heard it. So I jacked up the car and presto.
I had a suspicion the noise was coming from inside the t case and the sound was being muffled by it's housing. Hence the sort of fluttering sound. When I first posted about the sound I wasn't confident of the description and was trying to think of a way to express it. It does sound like it's coming from a rotating part.

Ok that said. Do I just unbolt the selector motor and manually change it to 2wd.
What is required to fix the shift motor?
 






Fuse 6 in BJB

I only have 2WD so don't have any first hand knowledge on 4WD but I suggest that you check Fuse 6 (20 amps) in the battery junction box. It supplies 12 volt power to the shift motor. Do your courtesy lamps and power windows still work? If not, then also check Fuse 26 (10 amps) in the central junction box. It supplies 12 volt power to the electric shift control module.
 






Shift motor engages 4x4 low. just not back to 2wd or auto as it's called.
I cannot hear it attempt to shift out of 4x4hi to 2wd. I am going to try the hammer method first. There are a few threads about this issue so I guess I'll have to do some study.
I do believe my breaking down issue to be related to this. Too many revs and the driveline cant keep up. So it chokes down.

I think I will end this thread and start a new one if I need to.

Thanks again for taking the time.

P.s I got the poor mans, base model, Ex no power windows and no other fancy electrics to break.
 






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