Explorer has no spark, will not start

[harrison94]

'91 fod explore, bone stock will not start. i am getting no spark. replaced coil pack, ECM, and crank sencer. Any ideas?

 

[MrShorty]

Do you have power to the ignition module?
Do you have fuel pressure/does the fuel pump run? If not, you might not have power to any of the EEC-IV system.
Any codes from the computer?

 

[tech76903]

I just had the same experience with my 1991 Explorer Sport, and found the EEC Relay to be the culprut. (found under the under hood fuseblock, black on black relay) $11.99 at Advance auto... cheap fix as apposed to the ecm, and other parts... Later

 

[explorerscope]

I'm having a problem with my explorer 93 not starting. A mechanic worked on it and had to flush out water and dirt from the gas tank. then put eveything back but the sender float was put in incorrectly(fuel guage reads full when its really empty). It ran for a while and stalled again. How do I find out if a relay is bad? I had someone switch the starter to ON while I listen to the relays and they "clicked" on, so does this means my problem is not the relay? Also, the vehicle has been down for about a week, I drained the fuel tank, so I can drop it and check the pump connections. After draing the fuel tank, I checked the pressure valve to bleed out fuel pressure and there was not a drop of fuel coming out, does this mean the line is blocked or is this just happening cause I drained the tank first. I thought there was suppose to be residual pressure in the lines

 

[MrShorty]

A clicking sound from a relay is a good start -- it's at least trying to do something, but it doesn't prove that the relay is closing. Best check would be to put a voltmeter across the switched side of the relay and measure the voltage drop across the switch. An open switch should show 12 V voltage drop; a closed switch will show 0 V. It really helps if you have a basic understanding of DC electricity, so review the electrical section in a Chiltons manual for a brief write-up on DC electricity (if you don't have a Chiltons, there's an electronic version at www.autozone.com).

If you drained the tank so there's no fuel for the pump to pump, then there will be no pressure at the fuel rail. Can you hear the pump come on?

 

[explorerscope]

Although I'm not highly mechanical person, I have good working knowledge of how electricity works. Well here's what I did since my last post. I finally got the fuel tank down. Bought myself a 12V DC lamp tester and using the circuit diagram I got I checked power at the relay was good. At the inertia switch, turn starter to on and I heard the relays engage and the light would come on then go off after 1 or 2 seconds. I did the same check after the inertia switch and then right up to the last connector just before the fuel pump and in all instances the light would come on and off, which ,means from what I read, power is at least going to the fuel pump.
I also check the fuel pump ground to ground for continuity and it was good and again check the positive to ground for continuity to see if there was a short, and that test was also good. So next step would be to check the connector at the fuel pump and the pump itself. Am I on the right track?
How do I actually test the pump itself? should I just switch on and see if the pump comes on?cause I can't really hear if it is coming on for that second or 2 with it being in the fuel tank and is there a way to service a fuel pump without buying a new one.
Should I also test cranking the truck with starter fluid?

 

[MrShorty]

One of the leads in the self-test connector (short end, should be same color as relay-to-computer wire) is a fuel pump test lead. With the key on, ground this lead, and the pump should run.

 

[explorerscope]

Where will I find the self test connector?

 

[MrShorty]

Under the hood, Passenger side between the power distribution box/air filter housing and the heater blower. If it hasn't been used in a while, it could be tucked down in there a bit. See www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for a picture of the test connector (and instructions for pulling codes if you ever need to).

 

[explorerscope]

Well I decided to "rip out" the fuel pump from the tank. The sender guage wire was loose which was why the fuel guage was reading full when it was empty. With the pump and assembly out, I had someone switch to ON while I felt for the fuel pump turning or trying to prime. I just felt a little click and that was it. My guess is the pump is jammed and needs to be replaced. If it was working properly I think it suppose to spin the amature making a hissing pumping sound for a second or 2, right?
Well with all that water and dirt that was in the gas tank, it was a matter of time for the pump to give up. I hear something moving about when I shake the fuel pump, is this normal???