Extras on the Mountaineer vs Explorer axle? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Extras on the Mountaineer vs Explorer axle?

FourBinLabs

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City, State
SW Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
Mercury Mountaineer
Ok, this one caught me by surprise.

My 00 Mountaineer had two bad axle seals and had metal chunks stuck to the magnetic plug every time i pulled it to add 80-90 to it. The LSD was also shot so I found a 99-01 explorer with another 3.73 LSD in it back in march and pulled the axle. I wish I knew the exact year on the donor vehicle, but I'm not sure if it would still be there now.

I just put the axle in last night. Everything went smooth enough, but when I went to attach the... I guess we'll call them trailing arms... There were no tabs on the axle to attach them to.

So my question is... These arms that are connected to the frame via a bracket, then go backward toward the axle to connect to the top of the axle. What are they? Is this a handling improvement made to the mountaineer but not the explorer, or is it something they added after the firestone rollover lawsuit?

I removed the passenger arm for now, and have tied up the driver side arm which will be harder to remove. I'd like to find out if I should find a way to weld tabs to my "new" axle, or just remove these arms and not worry about it.
 



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I think those are for V8 engines.
 






Yup, for the v8 explorer or mountaineer. You could leave it off, but I'd suggest welding the brackets onto the axle.
FYI 80-90 is wrong. Ford calls for 75-140 syn with ls additive
 






^ +1 on the fluid weight. Seems that today nobody reads the manuals anymore.
 






Some sohc sports came with them also fyi
 






These are called "anti windup bars", and as far as I know, came only on the 5.0L equipped vehicles. As the name says, they are there to prevent the axle from 'winding up' during hard braking or acceleration. Don't know how critical they are -- probably not a lot. In any case, I would follow the other poster's advice to weld the ears to the new axle and re-attach them.

Ok, this one caught me by surprise.
...
I just put the axle in last night. Everything went smooth enough, but when I went to attach the... I guess we'll call them trailing arms... There were no tabs on the axle to attach them to.

So my question is... These arms that are connected to the frame via a bracket, then go backward toward the axle to connect to the top of the axle. What are they? Is this a handling improvement made to the mountaineer but not the explorer, or is it something they added after the firestone rollover lawsuit?
...
 






A local shop recommended non-synthetic 80w-140+LSD additive instead of the synthetic oil, they said it provides better protection. Just FYI, the shop seems like they know what they are doing and have a good reputation here.
 






Well they're wrong. Full syn 75w-140 with ls additive is what you should run. Regardless of what a "knowledgeable" shop says
 






Some sohc sports came with them also fyi

Really they did? Do you know if it was the 2wd ones or the 4wd ones. I really think my v8 sport could benefit from them.
 












in the 70's ,we put traction bars on our hot rods .w/o them ,springs would break when drag racing.
I`m thinking rear disc brakes might twist the axle .Anti windup bars could be a new name for traction bars.
Question---why does only 1 wheel spin on my 03 mountianeer?I had a 1980 trans-am that limited slip rear end locked in perfect.
[parking brake shoes are w/o liners]
 






Well they're wrong. Full syn 75w-140 with ls additive is what you should run. Regardless of what a "knowledgeable" shop says

Are you saying this from experience, or because that's the factory fill?
 






I think that Ford engineers that specified that fluid are more knowledgeable than a local repair shop guy.
 






This thread is hilarious. First, thanks to everyone here who commented and helped me identify these parts. I plan to weld the tabs from the old axle on when I get some time now that I know what they are for.

Now... To jump into the fluid debate we have going on here. Yes, I didn't read the manual. I think you guys are arguing over a mute point. I think if you keep the axle maintained and check fluid levels every now and again what weight you run isn't going to make a big difference (as long as it's within reason).

Yes, I did fill my replacement axle with 80-90, just like my old axle. I did put in friction modifier when I filled it, as I'm not 100% dense :D
I picked 80w-90 because it was cheap, and I don't worry about the oil thinning at high temps because this is just my winter car so it only gets driven in the cold anyway.

IMHO, Ford specs fluids based on what will yield the best fuel economy, not what will last the longest. They did this some years back when they dropped the motor oil weights on many cars that had called for heavier oils previously. Manufacturers will do many things to improve fleet fuel economy, as the government gives them incentives to do so. Do I run 5w-30 in my f150 w/ a 351 like ford says? Heck no! In fact, I know a lot of guys that run 15w-40 in the 351.

So, keep arguing about what ford tells you to do versus what your tech or your mom told you to do. I'm ready for it :salute:
 






Yeah, sorry, didn't mean to derail your thread.
 






75W-140 is not 'thinner' at operating temperature than 80W-90, so the analogy with engine oil is totally backwards. If you want numbers, viscosity at 100C for "-90" is 14.5 cSt, while for "-140" is 28 cSt.
Since the LS relies on friction, lowering the viscosity is reducing the available torque that can be transmitted via friction, so with thinner oil you have more of an "open" diff than a correct LS one.
It's also synthetic oil probably because the increased temperatures that can be generated inside LS diff (again, friction is used for LS), on summer normal city driving, while cornering. It would thin too much and even break up a regular oil. This is not happening with synthetic, that's why doesn't need to be changed (unless you immerse the axle in water).
And, if you worry about cold starts, you should lower the first number (the one with W suffix), not increase it.

But, hey, it's your truck, your axle, you can do whatever you want... Just don't tell other people that your "mechanic" knows better than the Ford axle designers.
 






75W-140 is not 'thinner' at operating temperature than 80W-90, so the analogy with engine oil is totally backwards. If you want numbers, viscosity at 100C for "-90" is 14.5 cSt, while for "-140" is 28 cSt.
Since the LS relies on friction, lowering the viscosity is reducing the available torque that can be transmitted via friction, so with thinner oil you have more of an "open" diff than a correct LS one.
It's also synthetic oil probably because the increased temperatures that can be generated inside LS diff (again, friction is used for LS), on summer normal city driving, while cornering. It would thin too much and even break up a regular oil. This is not happening with synthetic, that's why doesn't need to be changed (unless you immerse the axle in water).
And, if you worry about cold starts, you should lower the first number (the one with W suffix), not increase it.

But, hey, it's your truck, your axle, you can do whatever you want... Just don't tell other people that your "mechanic" knows better than the Ford axle designers.

You clearly didn't read my response. As I never said 75-140 was thinner at operating temp. I know 80-90 thins as it warms up, but as I posted, this is of no concern to me because this vehicle is only driven when it snows.

Keep telling yourself that an engineer always knows better than real world experience. It's not as if there are things that happen in life that science can't explain.
 






And driven only in straight lines.

OK, I got it, the mechanic (probably high school dropout) knows better than Ford engineers.
 






Yea because the mythical " ford axle designers " built them out of unubtainiun derived from unicorn horns and dragons toes and if you dont go by the handbook that was scribed by elf wizards your truck will come to life and drop you in the lake of fire on mount doom! LMAO get a life!
 



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And driven only in straight lines.

OK, I got it, the mechanic (probably high school dropout) knows better than Ford engineers.

Ford engineers also built the timing system components in the SOHC V6 engine out of plastic and made them essentially unserviceable.

Usually I would agree with you, the designers/engineers know whats best for their application, but they also do make mistakes, and they work under multiple constraints - cost cutting, fuel economy, in addition to functionality / durability.
 






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