Extras on the Mountaineer vs Explorer axle?

[delexploder]

JD that looks purdy

 

[jd4242]

I just dug mine out and took some pics. It appears to be 5/8" diameter.
I'll post a couple pics shortly.
I still have to disagree with them being rare though. As I said, I found my replacement easily. The yard I got it at, had 3-4 more Rangers with them. Several other yards I called said they had them too. I THINK anything with the 4.0L-OHV had them.

Me and my buddys are both 4.0 and dont have them.ive never seen them in the yards either. Rps is where I got its rare.either way good info to know for sure.

 

[jd4242]

oooo, pretty!

JD that looks purdy

Lol thanks.more about how it functions tho.made a huge difference

 

[Carguy3J]

Me and my buddys are both 4.0 and dont have them.ive never seen them in the yards either. Rps is where I got its rare.either way good info to know for sure.

Well, the offroad guys LOVE to rip sway bars off and toss them in the garbage. So, maybe they've just been gone by the time you find them?

Here's the pics:

Sorry they're a little blurry. I've had a fever for a week and a half. My hands weren't too steady.

Notice how its weirdly asymetrical.

One thing that does seem to be frustratingly rare is new bushings (for the bar-to-axle). I can't even find a listing anywhere. As you can see, I have new links, but the bushings are the junkyard ones.

 

[jd4242]

Yea could be.especially sense they bolt on with u-bolts.

 

[SoNic67]

Me and my buddys are both 4.0 and dont have them.ive never seen them in the yards either. Rps is where I got its rare.either way good info to know for sure.

Maybe because you check only the Pick-And-Pull in Virginia Beach? They have just ONE V8 Montaineer there...

 

[jd4242]

Maybe because you check only the Pick-And-Pull in Virginia Beach? They have just ONE V8 Montaineer there...

We was talking about rangers and having a rear sway bar.

 

[FourBinLabs]

If this vehicle in question is used exclusively in the winter, then all the more reason to use the specified 75w140 Synthetic. After an overnight cold "soak" the 75w140 synthetic will begin to flow and lubricate much quicker/sooner then a higher viscosity conventional.
Also, Ford did ORIGINALLY specify the 80w-90, but they then realized that it was leading to increased warranty claims (ie, things were wearing out too quickly), so they issued TSB's with updated specs, to the 75w140.
Besides the technical reasons, full-synthetic gear oil does not have that signature perma-stink that conventional gear oil does. That alone is worth it.

I will agree that 75w140 will start flowing sooner after cold soak, but I wonder if the difference is as big as you think. I also would speculate that the TSB's updating to 75w140 were resulting from vehicles that were driven in warmer climates, drove long distances at high speed, or were towing. The viscosity of 80-90 at 100° C is not much more than half of what it would be with 75w140, this is where you will run into a problems. As per the smell, I couldn't care less.

You should be running the 75w140 synthetic, if you care about doing things the "right" way when it comes to your vehicle. If you are of the hillbilly engineering, "run it till she ain't gots no 'mor liiiffe ta geeeve" then throw whatever you want in it. What the hell, use dish detergent. Its kinda slippery right?

I appreciate your humor, and actually yes that is somewhat my philosophy with the particular vehicle. I bought it in '07 with a salvage title. It's sole purpose in life is to absorb the wear and tear of winter driving so that my other vehicle does not. It has substantial rust from the salt and will probably move on down the road before it ever needs another axle. I could get 80-90 cheap (read free) and I bought this axle for $120. For this vehicle, the "right" way is cheap.

Same as the genius and his buddies running 15w40 in the motor specifying 5w30. Unless your motor is ALREADY shot and knocking, using an oil that thick IS harmful, and will lead to premature wear. Especially in winter/cold weather. It takes much longer to flow to and lubricate critical surfaces at startup. It puts more pressure on seals, and makes your motor work harder to overcome increased internal drag. Its fine for a "big truck" diesel, designed for it. But if the oem says 5w30, then you can bet that the oil passages and various clearances are tighter, and intended/designed for that viscosity oil. The seals are meant to seal under the oil pressures the system is designed to produce. You go and throw such a "heavier" oil in there, and you just raised the pressure significantly, possibly leading to premature seal failures/leaks. Of course, then you'll just think you need even thicker oil, or "motor honey", to stop the leaks you caused.

Ford has been thinning their oil specs across the board since '01. I don't know if it is true now, but there were a few years that they were specifying 5w-20 in the US and 5w-30 in Europe for the same engine. The only difference was the Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) requirements imposed upon them by the federal government. Think what is written in the book is always in your best interest? It's fine if you do, but I'm not one to buy that kind of thing straight out without doing my homework.

 

[tree11]

Limited slip rear end is not working on my 2 wheel drive.Haynes repair manual says nothing about rear end.
I`' m stuck at home in the snow because only 1 wheel spins. has weight in the back.
who knows how to fix it?

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Limited slip rear end is not working on my 2 wheel drive.Haynes repair manual says nothing about rear end.
I`' m stuck at home in the snow because only 1 wheel spins. has weight in the back.
who knows how to fix it?

Most of the 2WD explorers and mountaineers were open carrier, so first off check you door tag to confirm which axle you have. If in fact is a limited slip and it doesnt work, that means the clutch packs inside the axle are worn out. That does not mean the axle is broken, just means you are stuck with an open carrier that only powers one tire as you have experienced. You can drive it like that basically forever.

To get the limited slip working the only fix is replacing the clutch packs inside the axle. In theory can be done with the axle in place, but frankly is a whole lot easier with the axle removed and on a bench. It you are going to put that much work and exspense into it, you would be much better off getting a luchbox locker for a few extra dollars. The lockers work a heck of a lot better than any limited slip.

What's the best quick cheap fix to get you moving? Very simple $50 solution: Get a pair of snow chains. Chain up your rear wheels and drive where you please. Follow the directions on that come with the chains -- keep them tight and dont go above 30 mph or so, take them off on dry pavement or they will damage the road and quickly wear out. That's what everyone did in the 60's and 70's when just about all passenger cars were V8 rear wheel drive with stock open carrier differentials. Worked then, still works. People have just mostly forgotten about tire chains and winter snow tires because most passenger cars now are front wheel drive.

 

[koda2000]

assuming your truck is equipped with a LSD (check your door tag, it should say something like axle "D4" for a LSD 3:73 ratio). i believe the "D" is the code for a LSD. if you don't see that, you have an open rear diff, and that's why only one wheel spins in the snow. both of my 2WD trucks have LSD's.

most limited slip diffs use clutch plates and springs to provide the power to both rear wheels while allowing one wheel to slip when you go around corners. the clutch plates wear out or the springs break, then you're limited slip is non functional. LSD's also require a special friction modifier in the gear oil.

you can disassemble the dif and repair it, or you can replace the complete working diff from the salvage yard unit.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

In an emergency situation you can improvise tire chains to get you out of snow drifts or wet terrain by running a cable or chain in a loop over the tread and through the spokeholes in the wheel. Put two or three evenly spaced around the wheel. Can cause wheel damage, but in an emergency can save your behind.

Basic idea is to replicate this: http://www.etrailer.com/Tire-Chains/Glacier/PW6081.html?feed=npn&gclid=COfkg9CuurwCFQbl7AodLwoAzQ

 

[jd4242]

Well, the offroad guys LOVE to rip sway bars off and toss them in the garbage. So, maybe they've just been gone by the time you find them?

Here's the pics:
View attachment 77051

View attachment 77052

View attachment 77053

View attachment 77054

Sorry they're a little blurry. I've had a fever for a week and a half. My hands weren't too steady.

Notice how its weirdly asymetrical.

One thing that does seem to be frustratingly rare is new bushings (for the bar-to-axle). I can't even find a listing anywhere. As you can see, I have new links, but the bushings are the junkyard ones.

Did this mount infront the axle and between the frame rail by chance?? You have a picture of it installed??