Extreme clunking & binding in rear end.

[Chris Harrach]

Good evening all. I hope someone here can help with this. I have a 97 EB Explorer, 6 cyl. SOHC, 4 x 4, ControlTrac. Here's the problem: Since Monday, Ive had this EXTREME clunking & binding in the rear end whenever I turn to the left or right. It was so loud that the last time it happened, it startled a woman in the parking lot. Anyway, I read where it might be the emergency brakes snagging, but I've eliminated that. They're fine. Everything else up under the rear end looks fine as well. No leaks, nothing loose, & the sway bar & associated bushings are all ok. I have a Borg Warner 4405 T-Case but it isnt being used. That is to say the drive shaft to the front of the truck was removed when I had it installed. (I dont use 4WD). I cant figure out just what is the cause of this, but the noises that it's making strongly suggest that its not a good thing. :thumbdwn:
I have several questions as to what may be the cause, and Im praying someone here can give me the answer.
1) Is the rear differential shot & need to be replaced?
2) Is the rear wheel bearings/axels need to be replaced?
3) As for checking & putting in rear differential fluid, where do I check it
and fill it at & what type of fluid do I use?
4) Is there a possibility that the SHIFT MOTOR on the Borg Warner T-Case
is malfunctioning and thrying to shift into 4WD by itself?
Any & all suggestions and help is greatly appreciated. I really need to get this taken care of ASAP. Thanks in advance.

 

[deweyville65]

Sounds to me the traction lok, posi traction unit is binding. If it is making that much noise, it is too late to check the oil in the rear end. Pull the cover off the rear, and see what you have. Let us know what you find, then go from there. I'm betting there will be solid pieces in the bottom of the housing. If not you need to change the oil anyway. Fill plug is above the center, top left of thehousing. Use a 3/8 drive extension to remove the plug. Can be a royal PITA to remove. Having a clear plastic tube on the bottle of gear lube will be a big help when putting new lube in.

 

[Chris Harrach]

Thans dewyville65. Will do this first thing this morning. Any idea as to what type of gear oil/lubricant to use on this? Also, if it is the traction lok, posi traction unit thats damaged whats the next step? It sounds like a new rear/differential, unless the traction lok, posi traction unit, is something that is a seperate item that can be switched out. At any rate, thanks for the advice. I'll get on it this morning & let you know.

 

[Chris Harrach]

Extreme clunking & binding in rear end (Cont.)

Is the traction lok, posi traction unit/part's, readily available from the parts stores or are they all part of the entire rear differential as a whole? In short, should I just go and buy a rear end from a salvage yard & insall it all at once? Also, has the transmission suffered any damage from the rear end problems Im having? It drives great and goes thru all the gears without any problems. :scratch:

 

[deweyville65]

Chris, I honestly don't know what parts are available either seperately or as a unit. I have not had to replace any rear end parts other than an axle seal and park brake shoes. I am sure others on here can be more helpful than me in that area. As far as the lube, synthetic is best. It can be found at any parts store. If you don't have the owners manual, I can go look in mine for the recommended lube. Being as underfunded (broke), as I am, I used regular 80-90 if I remember correctly, with a bottle of additive for the traction lok. I however am planning to go to synthetic here pretty soon.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Chris, I honestly don't know what parts are available either seperately or as a unit. I have not had to replace any rear end parts other than an axle seal and park brake shoes. I am sure others on here can be more helpful than me in that area. As far as the lube, synthetic is best. It can be found at any parts store. If you don't have the owners manual, I can go look in mine for the recommended lube. Being as underfunded (broke), as I am, I used regular 80-90 if I remember correctly, with a bottle of additive for the traction lok. I however am planning to go to synthetic here pretty soon.

I believe the limited slip diffs came from the factory with synthetic fluid, but when I did mine I used some 80w-90, with Friction modifier.

Chris if there is not pieces in the case, refill the diff with fluid and add friction modifier. The friction modifier is suppose to quiet down the limited slip diff.

 

[swshawaii]

Ditto. See owners manual link below. (Pages 223-224)

Vehicles equipped with 4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI engines may have a limited slip differential. If your vehicles is equipped with a limited slip differential, add 4 ounces of additive friction modifier C8AZ-19B546-A, Ford specification EST-M2C118–A, for complete refill of 8.8 inch and 9.75 inch rear axles. For Traction-Lok rear axles, add 4 ounces of additive friction modifier C8AZ-19B546-A, Ford specification EST-M2C118–A, whenever the lubricant is changed.]

 

[Chris Harrach]

(Latest update.) Extreme clunking & binding in rear end.

Well I got the rear off and drained. and the worst of my worries was realized. A lot of the teeth/sprockets on the upper, lower, & the left & right were chewed up pretty bad. None of them outright missing, but wore down, broken, etc, etc. I now need to find a Traction lock unit to replace it. No need wasting my time putting it back together the way it is now. Quick couple of questions though:
1.) What would cause this in the first place?
2.) Are the axles in need of replacing as well?
3.) What do these numbers mean? They are stamped on a metal tag attached to the rear differential cover:
Top Line: S615C R
Bottom Line: 4L10 88 6K17
Im guessing it's the numbers associating the number of Gears & the Spline, but I dont know which is which. I saw 3 units for sale on ebay, but I dont know if they are the right ones to go in my Ex. Thanks again in advance for any information & advice.

P.S. As Im looking at this unit with the cover off, I was wondering if this can be removed & replaced WITHOUT taking off the rear end. I ask because on both sides of the unit, there are brackets that appear to be holding it in place. Would love to find out if Im right in my assumption. It seems it would save me a lot of extra work. Also many thanks to deweyville65, 1996BLKBauer, & swshawaii for your responses to this. Cheers.

 

[deweyville65]

What you have, so far, are ruined spider and axle gears. The best thing to do is get a Haynes or Chilton manual. It will show you how go pull the axles out. Thats the first thing to do. Then you can see what shape the ring and pinion are in. Hopefully they are still good. Be sure to clean all the pieces out of the axle tubes and take a good look at the axle bearings. Theres a good chance there are metal pieces and shavings out to the bearings. If there is no other damage, replacing the gears is pretty easy. If the ring and pinion are bad, go find a used rear at the wrecking yard. I am not sure right off how to interpret the codes on the tag. Check your door tag, you can search the codes on line. I think you may have 4:10 gears, but not sure.

 

[Chris Harrach]

(Latest update.) Extreme clunking & binding. STRANGE debris!!

Strange debris found in the rear after I FINALLY got everything out of the differential housing. :scratch: There were two pieces of metal about the size of your fingernail in there, one with 3 numbers on it, & aprox. 2mm thick & another piece that was round, but sort of indented on both sides. Really wierd, because not one matched or corresponded to the broken & cracked rings on either side of the ends of the axles. I did clean out both the axle & differential housings of all the metal shards. Tomorrow I'll replace the rear wheel bearings & seals. I believe the rear end is a salvage yard unit, as there was a white squiggle mark on the housing, very much like those done when you buy a part at the junk yard. All I have to do now is find where I can buy new spider gears. Hope they come with clear insrtuctions, as the flat rings ( dont know what they're called) on either side of the end of the axles, ALL fell off, out of order. Which really shouldn't matter since a lot of them were destroyed. Wish I knew how to post pics I took of the damage. Anyway, if anyone knows a good set of gears to put on, please let me know.

 

[Chris Harrach]

Extreme clunking & binding in rear end. (cont.)

Thanks for the info FordGT55 I'll be on it about that rebuild kit first thing in the morning. I'm sure that the Autozone, Pep Boys or Advance & O'Reillys have the Rear Bearings & seals without too much trouble. And tonight I'll try to get an account with Photobucket. Thanks again. Cheers!

 

[deweyville65]

Chriss, look in your phone book for a shop that rebuilds rearends and transmissions for your gears. A lot of times wrecking yards can point you to a competent shop, or, you might be as well off buying a complete rear axle assembly from the wrecking yard. Just pull the cover and see what it looks like before you hand over your cash.

 

[Chris Harrach]

(Latest update.) Extreme clunking & binding.

Well I have the rear wheel bearings & seals. However Im having a hard time finding the differential side bearings. mainly because I cant find a corresponding part/serial number for them. I need to change the bearings that are on the housing due to all the metal shavings & debris that was found in the housing. If any one knows the part number and Brand for these two bearings please let me know. Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys, and the others dont have a clue as to what I'm talking about. :scratch:Its the last 2 pieces I need before I start putting this all back together. Cheers!

 

[deweyville65]

I'm thinking you will not find those bearings at places like Autozone. Go to NAPA or Carquest. If you are talking about what I think you are, you are going to have to pull the ring gear to replace the bearings. I am thinking you will have to be careful about getting everything back with proper clearances between the ring and pinion. I am not sure about this, as I have never had to replace the side bearings. So maybe someone else has more info about this part.

 

[Chris Harrach]

:scratch:

I'm thinking you will not find those bearings at places like Autozone. Go to NAPA or Carquest. If you are talking about what I think you are, you are going to have to pull the ring gear to replace the bearings. I am thinking you will have to be careful about getting everything back with proper clearances between the ring and pinion. I am not sure about this, as I have never had to replace the side bearings. So maybe someone else has more info about this part.

Thanks for the reply Deweyville65. I was hoping that I didnt have to remove the ring gear in order to remove these two bearings.

 

[Chris Harrach]

Why remove Speedsensor Gear?????

Good afternoon all. Is there anyone here that can explain to me why the speed sensor ring should be removed