Factory remote start - need help!

[MBM]

Hey, have a 2002 and my factory remote start is not working. I press the keypad button and the horn sounds, dash lights on, etc, it thinks its running but it never cranks! Anyone know where I should look first? Seems like a relay or fuse issue where it's failing to initiate the start command to the starter relay. Thank you, Mark

 

[HiImBrian]

Hey, have a 2002 and my factory remote start is not working. I press the keypad button and the horn sounds, dash lights on, etc, it thinks its running but it never cranks! Anyone know where I should look first? Seems like a relay or fuse issue where it's failing to initiate the start command to the starter relay. Thank you, Mark

Explorers do not come wit remote start from the factory. They are dealer installed systems made by CodeAlarm. The controller should be in your drivers kick panel somewhere. A little box about the size of a deck of cards. Find the model number and call up CodeAlarm and they will troubleshoot it with you.

They have a programmed ignition crank time or can be set to read your tachometer. That sounds like where your problem is.

 

[MBM]

Thanks for the info. The small module under the dash says FORD security, assume that might be it? I did search some posts on here and saw the method of testing the bypass system, placing a spare key in the ignition, sure enough it started. Im going to check the wiring around the ignition at see if that came off.

 

[HiImBrian]

Thanks for the info. The small module under the dash says FORD security, assume that might be it? I did search some posts on here and saw the method of testing the bypass system, placing a spare key in the ignition, sure enough it started. Im going to check the wiring around the ignition at see if that came off.

Most likely. Check all your wires and if its still acting up call up CodeAlarm. They'll help you troubleshoot it for free. Just try to get a model number off the unit....

 

[MBM]

ok. checked the wire (ribbon cable) around the ignition, it's ok. I found the small remote start module but there is no sticker or info on it, it's nothing more than an small circuit board covered with epoxy in a box. I'll try to get some info and call them. Thanks again

 

[HiImBrian]

ok. checked the wire (ribbon cable) around the ignition, it's ok. I found the small remote start module but there is no sticker or info on it, it's nothing more than an small circuit board covered with epoxy in a box. I'll try to get some info and call them. Thanks again

Good luck. Be sure to write back and tell us what was wrong and how you fixed it.

 

[MBM]

Brian, can I ask a couple more.
Does this look like a code alarm from the photo?
Any other place that there would be another remote start component where i could get the model info?
My theft light does flash when it attempts to start?

Thanks Mark

 

[HiImBrian]

Brian, can I ask a couple more.
Does this look like a code alarm from the photo?
Any other place that there would be another remote start component where i could get the model info?
My theft light does flash when it attempts to start?

Thanks Mark

I can't see your picture. Use photobucket and the IMG code.

If it is labeled ford then yes. Ford has a contract with them. Everything it would need to be hooked up to is right under there. There may be a second box. One the remote start module, the other a PATS bypass.

If it won't crank at all, but will start with the key in the ignition; your bypass most likely needs to be reprogrammed.

 

[MBM]

Ok, what's involved with reprogramming the PATS bypass?

 

[HiImBrian]

Ok, what's involved with reprogramming the PATS bypass?

That would be where you would have to call CodeAlarm. It differs between models. I had to put mine in programming mode and start it a few times. Others require you to put an actual key in the box.

 

[MBM]

Remote start - replaced bypass - still not working

I was confident my issue was related to the PATS bypass module so I installed a new one, DEI 556SW. Both old and new module have 12V input when I send the remote start command, however, the is no ouput voltage whatsoever going to the coil around the key. Not even mV AC or DC. Any thoughts? I have the valet button too, I push it and the LED lights up, but Im not sure to know if its in valet bypass or normal?
Thank you!!

 

[HiImBrian]

I was confident my issue was related to the PATS bypass module so I installed a new one, DEI 556SW. Both old and new module have 12V input when I send the remote start command, however, the is no ouput voltage whatsoever going to the coil around the key. Not even mV AC or DC. Any thoughts? I have the valet button too, I push it and the LED lights up, but Im not sure to know if its in valet bypass or normal?
Thank you!!

That is the same bypass I have.

Did you also replace the wire/coil around the key with a new one? Valet mode should be off, no light.

 

[MBM]

Yes. The module came with a coil for around the key too. With the key on, I hold the valet button in and the horn beeps three times. Do the same thing again and it also beeps three times. Not sure which setting was valet mode but the start didn't work in either. The fact that the remote start works with a key near the ignition leads me to think my problem would not be valet related. I tried moving the coil to several different positions around the ignition. Just not sure how that module could create a magnetic field since I'm not reading any voltage output, even in millivolts! 12V input to module but nothing out to the coil. Maybe it's something I can't even read with a meter.

 

[Rumrcity]

same problem

MBM,
I have the exact same problem as you on my 2003. hence I am really curious as to how you go about correcting this. Please post your fix when you can. I in the mean time plan on calling Codealarm. Thx

 

[Rumrcity]

possible fix

MBM,
OK, stay with me here; I just followed the ignition ribbon wire to the small circuit board epoxy box, then followed the wires from the epoxy box (mine are BLK/RED) to a splice. This splice is just before the a black plug containing the blk/red and now a wht wire. This plug goes into the side of the box saying ford vehicle security system (its the only plug on that side of the box). I disconnected the plug from the vehicle security system box, tried the remote starter and it did the exact same thing (chirp, lights but no start) I then reconnected that plug and then started pinching wires around the splice and now it is working. So now I am going to unwrap the tape from around the splice and see if I can find the culprit. As I said, your problem is exactly the same as mine. Hope this helps.

 

[Rumrcity]

My Remote Starter now works.

Upon removing lots of electrical tape, I found the splice (as mentioned in above) was only for the white wire (spliced to itself, guess wire was a little short). I cut the crimped splice and did a solder splice, tried remote and guess what, it didnt work. So I followed the white wire (away from the ford vehicle security box) to a plug. There I found a diode jumper from the white wire to a light green wire that was also at the plug. I did notice the jumper was in contact with a red wire at the same plug. After adjusting the jumper from the red wire, the vehicle started and has done so at least 10 times. As I put the steering column and kick panel back together, I ensured it started everytime a piece was afixed. My suggestion, recheck your wires. Goodluck.

 

[MBM]

Rumrcity, THANK YOU! I'm gonna try tracing the wires tomorrow.

 

[MBM]

I followed the wires as you mentioned. That diode and small relay checked out ok too. Still not remote starting!!