Fast idle after lean backfire through manifold | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Fast idle after lean backfire through manifold

Upper to lower platinum wood screws holes are stripped
Sorry it's 100 bucks for a new 1
Do not buy used 1 and you're not gonna fix this 1 trust me I've tried
Good luck

When you tighten those wood screws make them hand tight do not use a wrench or anything just hand tight just enough to squish the oil rings that's why they're leaking now the holes are streped not squishing the o rings
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Upper to lower platinum wood screws holes are stripped
Sorry it's 100 bucks for a new 1
Do not buy used 1 and you're not gonna fix this 1 trust me I've tried
Good luck

When you tighten those wood screws make them hand tight do not use a wrench or anything just hand tight just enough to squish the oil rings that's why they're leaking now the holes are streped not squishing the o rings
Thank you
While I can see that being a possible cause. They arent stripped. I checked each one. You couldn't thread these wood screws in hand tight. The thread fit is to close/ to tight. . They were torqued slightly below the spec when I replaced them last time. A habit of mine on any plastic or aluminum part.
 






On certain intake manifolds, it's advised after replacement, to go back later (after time/miles have passed) and re-torque them because the seals permanently compress some. Maybe that's it?
 






On certain intake manifolds, it's advised after replacement, to go back later (after time/miles have passed) and re-torque them because the seals permanently compress some. Maybe that's it?
Thanks for that idea. Yes, there was a time when just about everything of this nature required Retorquing.
The thing is I never had any vacuum leak or fast idle until after the backfiring through the intake. It happened immediately after that. I honestly don't know where the smoke was coming from except behind the T stat housing where no matter how much light I shined there I couldn't tell exactly where. .. The wood screws had good torque on them when I took them out. I'll double check the service manual for retorquing but I don't believe it calls for that on this model anyway. Tomorrow I will clean the surfaces, put a straight edge on them to make sure they aren't warped, LOOK carefully for any signs of cracks.. If all looks well there I'll put it back together and see what I get. I purchased that BAFX OBDII blue tooth reader. Need to read the instructions and download an app for my Andriod phone. I'll try that out when I get it back together whether the problem is still there or not.
 






On certain intake manifolds, it's advised after replacement, to go back later (after time/miles have passed) and re-torque them because the seals permanently compress some. Maybe that's it?
No re torque required the plastic strips I went through a few lower intakes Because the plastic strips when you torque it to speck Tighten just enough to squish the O. rings

There are a few places underneath the intake that he could be having leak but it seems like anytime I mention a new place to look he's been there and done that
 






No re torque required the plastic strips I went through a few lower intakes Because the plastic strips when you torque it to speck Tighten just enough to squish the O. rings

There are a few places underneath the intake that he could be having leak but it seems like anytime I mention a new place to look he's been there and done that
Just to ensure the threads are good I torqued the upper manifold to the lower with the old seals in place to 62 inch pounds ( Ford spec) on the bench. Checked the lower manifold for warp on a piece of glass and used a 12 steel machinist rule where the dowels are. Everything is flat. Threads are solid. I'm going to try to get it back together tomorrow.
 






You most likely had smoke coming from the EGR inlet tube o ring or bottom of throttle body also there is an evap line there too it connects to the upper intake
 












You most likely had smoke coming from the EGR inlet tube o ring or bottom of throttle body also there is an evap line there too it connects to the upper intake
There is also an oil separator under the intake black box goes to the PCV valve
The hose can come off or the O. ring for the box itself leaks and oil will come out leaked down the motor
 






There is also an oil separator under the intake black box goes to the PCV valve
The hose can come off or the O. ring for the box itself leaks and oil will come out leaked down the motor
I totally forgot about that bro yep that is very possible
 












You most likely had smoke coming from the EGR inlet tube o ring or bottom of throttle body also there is an evap line there too it connects to the upper intake
The smoke was much lower than the EGR connection to the upper manifold.. After having things apart and looking at the line that goes down the front of the engine to the evap system I'd say that is a strong possibility. Can't see much of it. It is in the area where the smoke was coming from. Once back together if the high idle speed is still there it will be easy enough to eliminate or call that the problem. I'm taking a couple days off of this problem. My arthritis is bothering me to much right now. Thanks
 






There is also an oil separator under the intake black box goes to the PCV valve
The hose can come off or the O. ring for the box itself leaks and oil will come out leaked down the motor
I'll have to look into that. No sign of oil leaks there. I'll take a close look though. The amount of wires and vacuum lines they cram into a small space is beyond comprehension.
 






If it turns out to be that evap hose I'll be making up my own red neck version for that price. It will have a whole new routing.. lol I don't recall seeing that oil separator.. ? It's probably there though.
 






The smoke was much lower than the EGR connection to the upper manifold.. After having things apart and looking at the line that goes down the front of the engine to the evap system I'd say that is a strong possibility. Can't see much of it. It is in the area where the smoke was coming from. Once back together if the high idle speed is still there it will be easy enough to eliminate or call that the problem. I'm taking a couple days off of this problem. My arthritis is bothering me to much right now. Thanks
No problem bro i hope you get it figured out
 






If it turns out to be that evap hose I'll be making up my own red neck version for that price. It will have a whole new routing.. lol I don't recall seeing that oil separator.. ? It's probably there though.
Its in the back towards the firewall and it's in the valley under the harness
 






Its in the back towards the firewall and it's in the valley under the harness
Thanks Lee.. I just went out and looked.. Yes I did see it before. Just didn't know what it was for and didn't bother looking into it. The PCV hose is connected securely and there is no sign of any oil leak in that area.
 






Thanks Lee.. I just went out and looked.. Yes I did see it before. Just didn't know what it was for and didn't bother looking into it. The PCV hose is connected securely and there is no sign of any oil leak in that area.
Theres an o ring on the bottom though that dries out and hardens over time causing a leak
 









Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





So far so good I guess there. It's dry as a bone in that area.
Ok you could hook up the smoke machine to the pcv system and see if there's a leak from the breather
 






Featured Content

Back
Top