few quick questions, putting tranny back in

[AltimateX]

UPDATE: HELP! few quick questions, putting tranny back in

ok. im putting my tranny back in on my 97 xlt, 4x4 with that auto 4x4 option thing. its an auto. well, i have the transmission back in and everything but im having trouble with a couple electrical cables and a hose.

one is up there in the front up high. its a green connector. i just can't find where it goes into. the other is also green but a dark green. its on the left side of the tranny. there is a bunch of wire loom that all the wires are ran in and it splits into four directions. this cable comes off the top of this four way split thing.

also, there is a hose. i can't remember where this thing went. you know those top bolts that hold the tranny in place? well this bracket hooked up to one of them and had two hoses. one i believe was the vacuum line which hooked right up on top of the tranny. this other hose is bigger and has a plug at one end and the other end is open.

if anyone could help me i would greatly appreciate it. i pulled it all so far and now that the tranny is fixed i want to get it back in there. im no mechanic, just have been learning what i can from repairing my own cars for about 4 1/2 years now. this is the first tranny i've even done so im still such a newb at this, so please excuse my lack of technical expertise.

please help though lol. i want to get this thing back on the ground and on the road! im so close lol.

 

[checkedout]

I've never done this but I hope this helps:

Transmission -- 4x4

1. Position the torque converter to the transmission. Align the converter to the front pump by rotating and pushing it inward until full engagement is made. Lightly lubricate the torque converter pilot hub using Ford Mutli-Purpose Grease DOAZ-19584-AA (or equivalent.)

2. CAUTION: The torque converter drive flats must not disengage from the pump gear.

Note: The torque converter must rest squarely against the flexplate. This indicates that the torque converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.

Position the transmission and jack under the vehicle. Raise the transmission into position. Rotate the torque converter to align the indexed stud with the index mark and with flexplate mounting holes. Position the transmission to the engine.

3. Install seven transmission-to-engine bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38-51 N-m (28-38 lb-ft).

4. Connect both transmission 16-pin connectors at the left and right rear cylinder heads. Position and connect the transfer case vent hose and shift motor connector. Install the vehicle speed (VSS) sensor. Install and securely tighten the vehicle speed (VSS) sensor retaining nut. Connect the vehicle speed (VSS) sensor connector.

5. Position the transmission crossmember and loosely install the mount nuts. Install the left and right crossmember bolts and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 85-118N-m(63-87 lb-ft). Lower the transmission. Tighten the mount nuts to 85-118N-m (63-87 lb-ft).

6. Remove the engine support jack stand.

7. Note: Use the crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the converter.

Install four new torque converter nuts. Tighten the nuts to 27-46N-m(20-34 lb-ft).

8. Disconnect and remove the safety strap from the transmission. Lower and remove the transmission jack from under the vehicle.

9. Position the transmission fill tube and install the bolt. Tighten the bolt to 38-51N-m (28-38 lb-ft).

10. CAUTION: Use care not to bend or damage the cooler lines. The case connector fittings must be held in place to prevent them from moving while tightening the tube nut.

Remove the caps from the transmission cooler lines and fittings. Install the lines. Tighten the fittings to 35-43N-m(26-32 lb-ft).

11. Position the starter motor. Install the stud and bolt. Tighten the retainers to 22-28N-m (16-21 lb-ft). Position the ground wire at the starter motor stud and securely install the nut.

12. Connect the shift cable to the bracket and lever.

13. Position the crossover pipe to the exhaust manifolds and loosely install the bolts.

14. Using new gaskets, position the converter assembly between the muffler inlet and crossover pipe outlet. Install the retainers at the muffler inlet and crossover pipe outlet. Tighten the retainers to 34-46N-m (25-34 lb-ft). Connect three HO2S connectors and locators. Tighten the crossover pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts to 34-46N-m (25-34 lb-ft).

15. Position the front driveshaft and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts at the front axle flange to 15-20N-m (11-15 lb-ft). Tighten the transfer case flange bolts to 21-32 N-m (16-24 lb-ft.)

16. Position the rear driveshaft and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 88-118N-m (65-87 lb-ft).

17. Position the skid plate and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 22-28N-m (16-21 lb-ft).

18. Lower the vehicle.

19. Install the fan shroud-to-radiator bolts. Tighten the bolts to 6-8N-m (53-71 lb-in).

20. Place the shift control selector lever in the D or OVERDRIVE position. Hang a 1.4 kg (3 lb) weight on the end of the shift control selector lever.

21. Raise the vehicle. Refer to «Section 00-02».

22. Pry the shift cable end from the manual control lever ball stud. Release the lock tab on the top side of the cable by pushing down on two tangs. Move the shift cable back and forth through the full adjustment length four or five times, in order to remove any dirt. Make sure the adjuster body moves freely. Shift the transmission to the D position by moving the transmission lever all the way forward (clockwise) and then rearward three detent positions. Holding the cable end fitting, push the cable rearward until the end fitting lines up with the outer manual control lever ball stud. Connect the cable end fitting to the ball stud. Push up on the lock tab to lock the adjuster body in the correctly adjusted position. Make sure the locator tab is properly seated in the bracket. Make sure the shift cable is clipped to the floor pan at the white cable mark and that the cable is routed into the tunnel.

23. Lower the vehicle.

24. Connect the negative battery cable.

25. Fill the transmission to the proper level with Motorcraft MERCON®Mutli-Purpose Auto0matic Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX (or equivalent) and install the fluid level indicator.

26. Remove the 1.4 kg (3 lb) weight from the shift control selector lever. After the adjustment, check for P position engagement. Check the shift control selector lever in all positions with the engine running to make sure the transmission/detent action is correct. Readjust as necessary.

27. Check the operation of the transmission.

 

[410Fortune]

sounds like your oxygen sensor connectors (the green ones)


Not sure what hoses you are talking about but one may be the transmission vent tube.
the bracket that bolts to the upper bellhousing bolts also holds the dipstick in place as well as the transmission vent tube.

I hope you seated your torque converter properly, you can destroy your new trans if you dont get it mounted on the trans correctly and then stabbed to the flywheel correctly. When you thread the nut on the torque converter stud, after the trans is mounted to the engine, it should pull the converter forward about 1/4" or so...

 

[AltimateX]

thanks guys that helps out

that one green connector was for the 02 sensor. i didn't even think about it since i have that part of the exhaust off. i still can't figure out the other one though. i searched everywhere and cannot find where it goes. its not for the 02 sensors. although it looks similar to the other 02 sensor connector. all i can really tell you is that its on the left side of the tranny going up from like a four way intersection of connectors branching off. its dark green with yellow inside, its a female end.wish i had a digi cam with me but im not at my house.

 

[410Fortune]

you should have 4 02 sensors, what you are describing sounds like one of the forward (upstream) sensors.
The blue ones are the catalyist monitors.

Do you have all 4 02 sensors hooked up?

 

[AltimateX]

yeah, i followed the wires and 3 of my 02 sensors are hooked up. i don't have the other hooked up yet because i have to put that part of the exhaust back on but i already found where that plugs into. it plugs into that other green connector i was talking about. so 3 are in and 1 goes somewhere else. so im still stuck with this one wire.

i was hoping to get it done tonight but the ford dealer had to order me a couple gaskets and they won't be in until tomorrow so when i come in to work on the explorer tomorrow i'll bring a digi cam so i can take some pics of the wire im talking about.

thanks for the help so far i'll post pics tomorrow

 

[AltimateX]

UPDATE:

ok. its all together. i still need to figure out where that plug goes. i really need to take a pic for you guys of it but i keep forgetting to grab the camera.

anyway. i wasn't sure how much tranny fluid to put in so i put like 4 quarts in just to check and test that it would work. well, its still up in the air and my dad put it in drive and all 4 wheels spun just fine. so we put it on the ground and the rpm just goes up but no movement. no weird sounds or anything though. it sounded just fine. we checked the dipstick and it didn't even show any fluid. i was out of time and couldn't go any further but my dad thinks it just needs more tranny fluid. anyone know how much it takes? does this sound like tranny fluid? maybe it just needs more and needs to circulate? i need to put more in tomorrow. there was no tranny fluid leaking. idk this sucks.

also, the overdrive off light was on. my dad said he tried pushing the button for it but the light stayed on. could this be because of that one plug? could that have controlled the overdrive?

last thing, this sucks but my water pump went out. lol. its leaking anti freeze right on the engine so now i have to go and get a new pump for it. just more time and more work again.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes your plug likely goes into the transmission somewhere and may very well be causeing the OD light, that or lack of fluid.


4 quarts is not NEARLY enough fluid, try like 8-10 or more depending on how much was drained and how large your cooling system is.

 

[AltimateX]

well, the tranny was out so all the fluid was drained.

how long does it take to circulate? do i need to do something special to build up pressure? i was told im supposed to go from park to drive and keep going through all the gears a few times to get all the fluid working.

 

[AltimateX]

ok. it will move now but i have no reverse!!! what could be up? this sucks. could it be something to do with the shift lever? maybe not engaging? could the reverse and overdrive have to do with that one plug?

please help lol. i need to get this thing moving.

 

[AltimateX]

i guess i should explain what happened in the first place. my output shaft broke and i thought it was the transfer case. so i pulled the transfer case and noticed the output shaft was broken so i pulled the tranny to then. i took the tranny to a tranny shop and had them put a new output shaft in and they also put in a new input shaft i think it was called. so then i go it back and put the tranny and transfer case back in and this is what its doing. idk if that helps at all. my dad said once all they did was do a tranny flush on his van and then the tranny went. he said the autos can be tempermental. isn't there a pump that or something that controls reverse.

 

[410Fortune]

take the truck to the trans shop that built it, have them look at it now that you have it together.

 

[BrooklynBay]

When you put it in reverse, do you see your reverse lights come on? If not, then your DTR might be out of alignment. Check your setting on the transfer case too.