Figuring Out What Parked The Ex...

[arco777]

I also checked, and the spark plug on the drivers side near the front of the engine (radiator area) is disconnected. this is the one that my dad yanked to get it back in, "claiming" it ran better that way. not sure if that means anything to you guys. Looking in the haynes manual, it says that's the #4 cylinder, the one he thinks has a crack in the block possibly (his words, not mine)

Cylinder head cracks will often dump coolant into a cylinder, causing a misfire. You can often tell by looking at the plugs; an exceptionally clean plug with 5 other normally dirty ones is a good indicator. Perhaps #4 was indeed misfiring due to that, but cutting ignition to it wouldn't help things. Crack in the block is unlikely, crack in the head is likely. The head gasket will need to be replaced anyways but if the head is warped and/or cracked a gasket will only be a temporary fix. Quite a few people on this board with cracked heads have replaced head gaskets instead and only fixed the problem for about 1-3 months till the "gasket" blew again.

I don't believe the stock heads can be fixed for good, an aftermarket replacement is necessary. Some newer 4.0 OHV heads are known to be more reliable though not completely immune, but you could try a junkyard set of OHV heads from a second gen Explorer if you're on the cheap. The material used on the first gen heads is just bad and reman'd ones will eventually fail.

Parts lots like Pick-N-Pull often have pretty low prices and run sales all the time. You could get heads, motors, etc very cheaply there and with warranties. Worth a call.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Cylinder head cracks will often dump coolant into a cylinder, causing a misfire. You can often tell by looking at the plugs; an exceptionally clean plug with 5 other normally dirty ones is a good indicator. Perhaps #4 was indeed misfiring due to that, but cutting ignition to it wouldn't help things. Crack in the block is unlikely, crack in the head is likely. The head gasket will need to be replaced anyways but if the head is warped and/or cracked a gasket will only be a temporary fix. Quite a few people on this board with cracked heads have replaced head gaskets instead and only fixed the problem for about 1-3 months till the "gasket" blew again.

I don't believe the stock heads can be fixed for good, an aftermarket replacement is necessary. Some newer 4.0 OHV heads are known to be more reliable though not completely immune, but you could try a junkyard set of OHV heads from a second gen Explorer if you're on the cheap. The material used on the first gen heads is just bad and reman'd ones will eventually fail.

Parts lots like Pick-N-Pull often have pretty low prices and run sales all the time. You could get heads, motors, etc very cheaply there and with warranties. Worth a call.

I pulled spark plugs 4,5,6 today on the drivers side. 4 and 5 just had your normal combustion stuff on them it appears, but 6 towards the firewall was half dirty/half white. Not white white, but you could see some of the insulator material still. Is this a possible sign of something?

Are the heads cast iron or aluminum? seen that it's cast iron, but believe I saw aluminum in a few places also.

If it means anything else the spark plugs are splitfires. I want to say *maybe* that's the second set of spark plugs. Could be the third, pretty fuzzy in that area

 

[arco777]

Well, on a good running engine, all the plugs will look about the same.

Splitfires will probably be fine. Usually it's the Bosch Platinum +4/+2 and other fancy plugs that these motors don't like. They like Motorcraft platinums and good quality Autolites work fine too.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Well, on a good running engine, all the plugs will look about the same.

Splitfires will probably be fine. Usually it's the Bosch Platinum +4/+2 and other fancy plugs that these motors don't like. They like Motorcraft platinums and good quality Autolites work fine too.

how come they don't like them? We looked into those years ago, but thought the prices sucked on it. I'd get it some nice motorcraft stuff, including a filter no way in hell would it get fram

 

[arco777]

Don't know why. Some people have reported poor performance. My experience with the BP+4s was paying a lot of money for a set of plugs that didn't run any better than cheap copper core Autolites. I have always used the Autolite Platinums but will probably go Motorcraft the next time I change them out.

Motorcraft is the way to go for oil filters, good choice there. I think the Fram air filters are fine though. When I had my stock airbox I had a K&N filter and it didn't add any power, just dirtied my MAF from the filter oil.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Don't know why. Some people have reported poor performance. My experience with the BP+4s was paying a lot of money for a set of plugs that didn't run any better than cheap copper core Autolites. I have always used the Autolite Platinums but will probably go Motorcraft the next time I change them out.

Motorcraft is the way to go for oil filters, good choice there. I think the Fram air filters are fine though. When I had my stock airbox I had a K&N filter and it didn't add any power, just dirtied my MAF from the filter oil.

i'll get some photos posted tommorrow, way too tired after moving around tons of boxes here

What do you recommend to replace the part that goes from the air cleaner box to the manifold? My parents put a generic flexible hose on it and took the stock part off when a electric fan was installed. It has a huge bracket that blocks the way for the oem part.

It just looks ghetto and I don't know if they have better fans on the market now? I assume the electric is still way better then a clutch fan? (especially since ford uses that yellowish plastic that cracks pretty quick)

 

[lifted93xplorer]

I must appologize about my last post, if I were you I'd disregard every sentance because the wife had just pissed me off and I was venting. I didn't realize what it meant to you until I read more into what you wrote later and I'm sorry. I really do see why you want it with only 64000 miles the drivetrain is like new still and it gives you something to tinker with. You know the original owner and you know the truck was not beaten so I'm sure it's in great shape body and interior wise. Also I can definatly see why you want to dissasemble the engine, for piece of mind and the cause of it's overheating may not be as bad as suspected. Besides it's not like your out anything to tear into it. If it was mine I would disect the engine whether I was putting a different motor in or not. As far as the air bellows you said was replaced, just keep in mind if there is a hole between the mass airflow meter and intake it will only start and die when the time comes. When you pull the heads also check for bent pushrods then dump diesel down the cylinders so it can work all around the rings because you don't need a broken ring if avoidable and I wouldn't waste your money on oil and a filter yet because you'll do that when your ready to fire it up. It's a really good sign there is no water in the oil because even if there was coolant getting into the combustion chamber it would have worked past the rings and into the oil pan so it might not be as bad as initally thought. So with all seriousness I wish you good luck and happy wrenching, it'll be a good motor to get some experience with as they are fairly simple with a solid bottom end.

 

[Tony H]

If you had water in the oil and the oil looked milky foamy, After 10 years, the water and oil would separate. The oil would be sitting on top of water so when you pull the dipstick to check it, it will look normal

 

[arco777]

i'll get some photos posted tommorrow, way too tired after moving around tons of boxes here

What do you recommend to replace the part that goes from the air cleaner box to the manifold? My parents put a generic flexible hose on it and took the stock part off when a electric fan was installed. It has a huge bracket that blocks the way for the oem part.

It just looks ghetto and I don't know if they have better fans on the market now? I assume the electric is still way better then a clutch fan? (especially since ford uses that yellowish plastic that cracks pretty quick)

No idea why they did all that... the stock intake tube is not restrictive and works fine even with modified motors. Only under heavy modification would you need to replace that. And even then, it makes no sense to replace the tube when the airbox is what's restricting flow. The box can be replaced with an open element high flow cone type air filter easily. Make sure your setup still has the oil vent, no air leaks, and a correctly installed MAF sensor. Otherwise you'll have problems. Might consider spending a dollar at the junkyard to restore the stock piece.

Also there's no reason to have an electric fan. True it adds a couple HP in theory but just adds more trouble in terms of wiring and possible overheating if it fails or doesn't turn on. The engine mounted fan works great and I haven't heard of anyone having problems with them; these motors stay cool very well with them. The white plastic doesn't seem to be weak; some white plastic is and some gets brittle when exposed to sunlight but I don't think the Ford fan has any of those issues. If you plan to keep the electric fan, make sure it's pulling air the correct direction and that whatever turns it on (manual switch or automatic temp-activated switch) is set up correctly.

 

[Tony H]

It is way down the road but I would look to loose the Electric fan too. It is getting in the way of the stock Plumbing from the MAF sensor and teh stock setup seems fine to me.
I have always used Autolite Copper Plugs #765. Cheap and they work. I have never seen the hype in all these Multi fire plugs.. the only advantage to Plats is that they last longer, but I like to pull the plugs once a year anyway just to make sure they didn't rust themselves in, especially on the harder plugs to access.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Here are the photos now that i've had some sleep!

^(This is the #4 spark plug, sorry I couldn't get a better shot. was just using my general point and shoot versus the rebel xti I have. just looks like regular wear on the spark plug to me, #6 was more clean then #4 and #5 though. Couldn't see bright white on the insulator, but more white then on the others. Not sure if that means anything)^

^(This is the #4 cylinder/spark plug that my mom/dad thinks probably has a crack in it, here's hoping it's just the cylinder head (even though those are expensive sadly to replace. better then a long block replacement fee)^

^(Kinda hard to see, but it's regular motor oil. With what Tony H said though, i'm wondering if I should fully drain the oil pan to see what comes out)^

^(Here are the gaps I am wondering about in the upper intake manifold. Are those seriously supposed to be there? they aren't sucking in air and dirt?)^

^(64,248.5 Miles On The Odometer, yes it's correct)^

Also, if I was to go to the junkyard and pull some heads off a donor vehicle, am I only able to harvest from Rangers and Explorers? or I can help myself to the Aerostars of this vintage also? Not sure if there is any difference between the van and truck engine configurations

 

[arco777]

You can pull Aerostar heads but not too many came with the 4.0, and the Aerostar's going to be a pain to pull any engine parts from.

Rangers and Explorers are your best bet but the OHV was used for many years so newer Rangers and 2nd gen Xs will have them and the updated heads to boot.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

You can pull Aerostar heads but not too many came with the 4.0, and the Aerostar's going to be a pain to pull any engine parts from.

Rangers and Explorers are your best bet but the OHV was used for many years so newer Rangers and 2nd gen Xs will have them and the updated heads to boot.

how modern can I go for the newer updated (thicker?) head design? Don't want to end up with incompatiable parts. If I beat someone else to the engine first and snag them, they aren't going to give me any issues like what it currently faces? No use in paying for a problem switch

 

[Tony H]

how modern can I go for the newer updated (thicker?) head design? Don't want to end up with incompatiable parts. If I beat someone else to the engine first and snag them, they aren't going to give me any issues like what it currently faces? No use in paying for a problem switch

This is what worries me. Swapping in Unknown Heads is dangerous. The car may have been junked 'cause it overheated and toasted the Heads.

See how the disassembly goeas. If nothing else, if you get replacement heads have a shop check for Flatness.

 

[Tony H]

Oh...those gaps.. they're normal. they go to teh Fuel Rail, no Vacuum issues there

 

[mohavewolfpup]

so the gaps aren't sucking air in at all? just looks peculiar, like it's holes in it. Today I started tear down on the engine, got the alternator removed, electric fan, upper radiator hose, compressor moved forward, throttle body disconnected, etc.

When I took apart the upper radiator hose, the part that connects into the thermostat housing had a severe amount of rust in it and the housing itself on it's connector is really rusted bad also. I'm positive this is bad, but how bad?

Is that a sign of issues to come in the lower half of the engine? One of the heater core hoses looks original to the engine, judging by the spring clips. Generally my mom hated those on the vehicle, so when we replaced hoses they got yanked off and tossed for some of the better ones you screw on.

Debating if I do more work tommorrow since it is 60 again, or go to my volunteer "job"

thanks for everyones help so far!

edit: while I remember, I found where the one vaccum connection blew off. It was basically a rubber cap that blew off upon startup, so it was replaced with a piece of tubing/hose that had a bolt driven into it's end then pushed onto the nipple. It's the one vaccum connection closest to the IAC if I remember correctly. any idea what it does and why it would blow off?

 

[94Sport5Sp]

Hi:

I have been reading this thread since you originally posted your question and I was going to keep my 2 cents out of it but I cannot.

If you are really serious about learning then my advice is DO NOT REPLACE ANYTHING until you have run at least some basic tests. The first thing I learned about fixing things (anything) is to try to determine what the REAL problem is. In my uncle’s garage I learned that any half qualified individual can replace a part but a real mechanic will determine which part to replace.

As I understand, from your opening comments, you have two objectives. To use this as a learning experience and to spend the least amount of money since money is not your strong point. With these two thoughts in mind then the first part of learning is learning how to be a diagnostician. That is learn to identify the problem before you fix something.

As mentioned by previous posters the first thing is to run some test to confirm your belief of what the problem is. Some of these tests may require special tools like pressure test the cooling system. Locally to us there are various parts store with "loan a tool" programs. That would be my first suggestion to you. Call them to see if that is available and what tools they have.

Ok, enough of a tirade lets get down to doing something. Will the motor turn over by hand? This has also been suggested in a previous post and I think it is a good place to start. No special tools and no expense involved.

In previous posts it has been recommended to put some fluids in the cylinders. If this was a motor which had been running good when last parked then I would concur. This motor however has been cooked at least once and possibly several times. Now we are worried about adding another scratch? Penny wise pound foolish say my uncles. Adding fluids to the cylinder will mask information which could help you.

If you have access to a working vehicle (preferably truck like) then use it to test what it feels like to turn the motor over by hand. (Remember vehicle in neutral or park.) Then apply the same pressure (maybe a little bit more) to the x. If it moves then you know nothing is sized. Now before you start really turning it over we need to know if there is water in the oil pan.

Your dip stick test is not helpful enough. Water will emulsify but not mix with oil and oil will float on water. So unless there is lots of water it will not show up. You need something which will draw from the lowest spot in the oil pan or you need to drain the oil. Now being a cheap guy trying to fix a broken engine I would get a super clean container and drain the oil. If there is no water then I would put the oil back in. Remember there is a good chance the motor has already suffered damage so reusing the oil is not a major contaminant. But if you can afford it and do not want to take a chance then put new oil back in.

Now take the spark plugs out and note which cylinders have spark plugs of different color and these become suspect number 1 of potential problems. With the spark plugs out turn the engine over by hand (assuming it moved in previous test) for one or two revolutions.

Now do a compression test.(Yes I know the engine has been dry for many years.) We want to know the uniformity or lack thereof. Need a compression tester for this. It would also help if you had a remote starter switch. This is essentially a wire with two clips on one end and a toggle switch on the other. Fasten the clips to the starter solenoid and toggle the switch to spin the starter with no key in ignition. Remember 3 or 4 revs per cylinder max.

That how I would tackle this problem and the information I would try to obtain. But then, as I said earlier I am cheap and only want to spend money when I know it will fix something.

This was slightly long winded but then inflation has caused my 2 cents to be worth so much less so I have to say more to get the same value.

Hope that helps
PaMnd

 

[rhauf]

how modern can I go for the newer updated (thicker?) head design? Don't want to end up with incompatiable parts. If I beat someone else to the engine first and snag them, they aren't going to give me any issues like what it currently faces? No use in paying for a problem switch

there are two head designs which will work for you're explorer. the 91tm and 93tm. the only differences between them that i know of is the exhaust port design. somewhere around 95 or 96 they changed the chamber size of the head (i believe smaller) so if you use heads off say, a '96 you're compression will be way too high and it'll predetonate and stuff..

but the heads have casting numbers on them, look for 91tm or 93tm. ...all of this information is on this forum you just have to search around.

by the way.. thats one clean looking engine from the pics.. wish mine was that clean! hah

 

[snoranger]

there are two head designs which will work for you're explorer. the 91tm and 93tm. the only differences between them that i know of is the exhaust port design. somewhere around 95 or 96 they changed the chamber size of the head (i believe smaller) so if you use heads off say, a '96 you're compression will be way too high and it'll predetonate and stuff..

but the heads have casting numbers on them, look for 91tm or 93tm. ...all of this information is on this forum you just have to search around.

by the way.. thats one clean looking engine from the pics.. wish mine was that clean! hah

They changed in 95. (95tm's)

 

[mohavewolfpup]

<snip>

At this point right now, i'm information gathering, not throwing paw fulls of cash at the engine and hoping it works. The heads are coming off so I can check for visual cracking and then i'm debating if I find a place in town that magnafluxes them and whatever else they can do to determine if they are garbage if a visual inspection doesn't net anything.

The vehicle is already written off in my familys eyes, i'm not putting in huge amounts of cash into it until i'm sure my theories are going to play out on it. I don't need a giant I told you so if I was "foolish" enough (at this point) to put new heads on it and it blows up in my face.

Relax, i'm not that stupid