zekew64
Member
- Joined
- November 19, 2013
- Messages
- 35
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Carbondale, IL
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1992 Ford Ranger XLT
Hey all...
Sorry if this thread is a couple of years old, but I have information I wanted to share, that might make it easier for those contemplating this swap:
I've been a JY and seen the difference in the '95-97 Rangers and the '98+ Rangers. The reason why the dual-piston calipers can be bolted onto a first-gen Ranger or Explorer is that the first-gen Explorers and Rangers had the slide-pin calipers and knuckles. When you upgrade to the '95-97 dual-piston calipers, the steering knuckle becomes a non-wear item (the caliper now uses bolts instead of slides). Also, in 1998, the front suspension got changed from the Twin I-Beam to a Short-Arm/Long-Arm setup, which is similar to a car's suspension.
Also, this swap is actually bolt-in, as you only have to replace the 'wear' parts, such as ball joints and pads. However, I can't recall if the rotor is a hub assembly+rotor, or if the two were made seperate, like a car.
Also, for those of you interested in doing the rear setup, the only part you have to modify is the caliper anchor plate, which is bolted in place of the backing plate for drums. '94-'04 Mustang parts will work, as the brake parts for the Mustang really didn't change much (if at all) in those 10 years. As for the anchor plates, they will have to be bolted to the axle flange, on the INSIDE of the flange. Also, to attach the anchor plates, I would highly recommend using Grade 8 bolts, lock-washers and nuts.
I have already done this on my Ranger, as I swapped in an 8.8 Ranger rear (it came off of a 4.0L) and did this swap at the same time. Only problem I've had is that the passenger-side steel line, from the T-block, broke off (at the time of the swap, I had no place to attach it to the axle). To fix that issue, I got a 7" worm-gear clamp and wrapped that around the line. Haven't had a problem since.
Sorry if this thread is a couple of years old, but I have information I wanted to share, that might make it easier for those contemplating this swap:
I've been a JY and seen the difference in the '95-97 Rangers and the '98+ Rangers. The reason why the dual-piston calipers can be bolted onto a first-gen Ranger or Explorer is that the first-gen Explorers and Rangers had the slide-pin calipers and knuckles. When you upgrade to the '95-97 dual-piston calipers, the steering knuckle becomes a non-wear item (the caliper now uses bolts instead of slides). Also, in 1998, the front suspension got changed from the Twin I-Beam to a Short-Arm/Long-Arm setup, which is similar to a car's suspension.
Also, this swap is actually bolt-in, as you only have to replace the 'wear' parts, such as ball joints and pads. However, I can't recall if the rotor is a hub assembly+rotor, or if the two were made seperate, like a car.
Also, for those of you interested in doing the rear setup, the only part you have to modify is the caliper anchor plate, which is bolted in place of the backing plate for drums. '94-'04 Mustang parts will work, as the brake parts for the Mustang really didn't change much (if at all) in those 10 years. As for the anchor plates, they will have to be bolted to the axle flange, on the INSIDE of the flange. Also, to attach the anchor plates, I would highly recommend using Grade 8 bolts, lock-washers and nuts.
I have already done this on my Ranger, as I swapped in an 8.8 Ranger rear (it came off of a 4.0L) and did this swap at the same time. Only problem I've had is that the passenger-side steel line, from the T-block, broke off (at the time of the swap, I had no place to attach it to the axle). To fix that issue, I got a 7" worm-gear clamp and wrapped that around the line. Haven't had a problem since.
