Fixing up a 97 explorer.

[AP9]

I could be wrong but I think deep pan is for 4WD and shallow pan is for 2WD. When I got mine at Advance I didn't run into that . . . hmm.

And as others have said, get Mercon V ATF. Dexron/Mercon standards are technically obsolete (but it's fine for power steering and transfer case). Get full-synthetic if possible, you'll pay more (synthetic ATF runs about $5-$9 a quart depending on what brand and where you buy it) but it'll be worth it. Most full-synthetic ATFs should meet Mercon V requirements.

 

[nitrodude]

Any issues with using the cheaper mercon/dexron fluid?

Will either one mix alright with the couple quarts that don't come out?

 

[Robman]

I put full synthetic in my explorer trannies ( manual and auto.) 1 of my automatics was triggering the transmission light and not allowing it to go into the higher gears for the highway. I changed the filter and had a "transmission transfusion" done... a transfusion meaning they pump oil in and suck some out in cycles until most of the oil has been interchanged. My point is, is that FULL synthetic oil is the absolute best way to go although it is more expensive. Also it's best to change yer tranny filter whenever you have that tranny pan off.. the filters are cheap. BTW I put another 50 000 kms on that transmission and now use that truck as a farm truck simply because she was getting old and tired.. but the tranny still works great

 

[nitrodude]

I guess I'll get synthetic. Any brand you'd recommend? Mercon/dexron synthetic or Mercon v synthetic?

 

[tgibbonsfordluv]

I thought Mercon V was a full synthetic, but I'm just taking an educated guess.

Autozone's parts listings can be real goofy. Sometimes they list multiple different parts for different engines even though the search filter already knows which engine it is. One could be for the pushrod motor and the other for the SOHC, but I really don't know.

Try looking on rockauto.com (even if you're buying from autozone) their listings can be really detailed sometimes and help you figure out which one you need. Also, I'm in love with the prices at rockauto personally. You have to wait on shipping but can save some serious coin, especially on really big projects.

 

[Robman]

I'm pretty sure Mercon V is a semi synthetic. Mobil 1 is always a good choice but likely almost any full synthetic will do the trick.

 

[AP9]

I'm pretty sure Mercon V is a semi synthetic. Mobil 1 is always a good choice but likely almost any full synthetic will do the trick.

^that. All Mercon V spec ATFs are at least semi-synthetic. When I changed my filter a couple weeks ago I used Mag-1 synthetic: one of the least expensive full-synthetic ATFs around, and yes it's Mercon V. Though I have heard great things about Mobil 1 ATF.

 

[tgibbonsfordluv]

Good to know. I wouldnt worry about it in a transfer case or manual gear box but i'll keep it in mind for an automatic.

 

[Robman]

I don't like to worry about lubricants so I use the full syn in my auto and manual trannies aswell as my transfer case + Lucas additives. In my mind the full syn lubes better, doesn't break down as easily, doesn't expand or contract in temperatures as bad and keep things cleaner. oh and lasts longer. I like to "set it and forget it"

 

[Imploder]

I guess I'll get synthetic. Any brand you'd recommend? Mercon/dexron synthetic or Mercon v synthetic?

Since your on a budget just get any brand Mercon V. I know you don't want to spend a lot of money but you need to get miles out of this truck so put the right fluid. Check some other websites and double check parts (rockauto,advance,autozone)you will be able to figure out which is the right filter. As Ap9 stated I think the deep pan is for 4wd and the shallow pan is 2wd by checking a couple sites you will be able to figure it out. Save money when you can but do it in a way that it doesn't cost you money later.

 

[nitrodude]

Well Said imploder.

The weathers been real lousy here the last few days so I haven't bothered getting the parts. Might run there tomorrow and go shopping lol.

As for the cold starting, pressing the gas and realizing it before trying to start it doesn't seem to help, but giving it a hair of gas while cranking it over seems to make it start faster. Any suggestions? If weather permits ill pull a plug and see how it looks

 

[Dono]

Have you cleaned up your throttle body and idle control valve.
As our vehicles age, it could be almost anything causing your cold start issue. Try cleaning those items up.

 

[Imploder]

Well Said imploder.

The weathers been real lousy here the last few days so I haven't bothered getting the parts. Might run there tomorrow and go shopping lol.

Where's "here" Nitrodude? where are you from?
As others have said check your plugs. Dono has a good Idea in checking the Throttle body and idle control valve. Search this site and you will probably find a post on cleaning the throttle body.
If the plugs are good and you clean the throttle body, change the oil and filter, change the trans filter you should see your inexpensive little investment perk up for you. One more thing, put a bottle of Fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank with about 1/4-1/2 tank of gas and let that clean up the fuel system.

All these suggestions are are fairly low cost and easy to do yourself.:smoke:

 

[nitrodude]

Here is Florida.
I did clean the throttle body through the intake but didn't remove it. I also cleaned the iac
A TON of black fluid came out the intake lol.

As said in my first post I already sea flame the crank case then did an oil change as well as sea foamed a few gallons of fresh gas into it.

 

[nitrodude]

Well $60 later I've got 5 quarts of Mercon v autozone brand fluid, 6 double plutonium plugs (parts guy recommended em) and a new filter and gasket for the trans.

Plus have a 285 amp alternator on the way. Life is good

 

[Imploder]

sweet.
you did good.
that's a nice alternator are you going to be powering something large like a housing tract??? LOL
make sure you come back and post the results of these repairs. It's always good to hear when someone makes a plan and carries it out to success and I think your plan will make that rig purr like a kitten.
good luck

 

[nitrodude]

Ill keep you all updated. Hopefully I can get it done today.
The alts to power almost 8,000 watts of audio goodness Lol.

Little nervous after reading some horror stories of changin the ATF to new fluid or doing a flush and soon after or immediately after the trans slips. Something to so with te gritty ness of the old fluid helps the trans not slip while the new fluid is fresh and has detergent in it. Guess we will find out of its a myth or not. Hopefully it's myth lol. Wouldn't be happy if the trans went out on this truck

 

[nitrodude]

How the truck do you get the last two plugs out on the passenger side
?!?!

Have the wheel well out and looking from the top or bottom or side there's no way in hell my fat hands will fit in there to change those plugs. I've got all different size exensions and elbows. But unless I remove the evaporator there's no way I'm getting those two plugs done lol.

 

[nitrodude]

With those 4 plugs replaced it still took a bit to start

And I jacked the truck up and took a peak at my trans pan some more.
First off, pretty sure the driver side cat has to come off-which the bottom bolt on the exit side I can get off easy, the top bolt is facing up with no room to get a wrench on it. What the hell was ford thinking? This truck is damn near impossible to do maintaince to.
Tightened up the pan for the hell of it for now til I figure out what to do.


Here's the new issues.

I noticed the back of the oil pan was seaping previously. So I checked it out with my flashlight and looked around, and the front bolts of the driver side cat were dripping oil, and the top of the exhaust header on the driver side cylinder closest to the firewall where it bolts to the engine is coated in oil. Ran the engine some and burnt some off.
Not sure where the hell that leak is, praying its not the head gasket which it looks like.
I also noticed a slight tick, it's not too loud but its there.

This trucks just full of fun and surprises!

 

[koda2000]

With those 4 plugs replaced it still took a bit to start

And I jacked the truck up and took a peak at my trans pan some more.
First off, pretty sure the driver side cat has to come off-which the bottom bolt on the exit side I can get off easy, the top bolt is facing up with no room to get a wrench on it. What the hell was ford thinking? This truck is damn near impossible to do maintaince to.
Tightened up the pan for the hell of it for now til I figure out what to do.


Here's the new issues.

I noticed the back of the oil pan was seaping previously. So I checked it out with my flashlight and looked around, and the front bolts of the driver side cat were dripping oil, and the top of the exhaust header on the driver side cylinder closest to the firewall where it bolts to the engine is coated in oil. Ran the engine some and burnt some off.
Not sure where the hell that leak is, praying its not the head gasket which it looks like.
I also noticed a slight tick, it's not too loud but its there.

This trucks just full of fun and surprises!

FYI: bad head gaskets don't leak oil. they leak coolant. your engine oil leak might be the pan gasket or valve cover gasket (if your lucky). it could also be the rear crankshaft seal if you see oil between the rear of the oil pan and the transmission bell housing - much bigger job.