Fixing up a 97 explorer.

[nitrodude]

FYI: bad head gaskets don't leak oil. they leak coolant. your engine oil leak might be the pan gasket or valve cover gasket (if your lucky). it could also be the rear crankshaft seal if you see oil between the rear of the oil pan and the transmission bell housing - much bigger job.

The oil looks like its coming from the head gasket.
Could be the valve cover gasket though.
I just know the top o the 3rd cylinder header is coated in oil lol

 

[Dono]

My money' on the valve cover gasket.

Careful not to strip the bolts that go in to the upper intake manifold. Its aluminum, and the bolts cross thread in to the manifold easily.

Other than that, valve cover gaskets are not a difficult job.

 

[nitrodude]

Also the four plugs I did manage to get out we're black. Looks like its running rich?

 

[Robman]

to take the trans pan off on my SOHC, I just drop the front driveshaft and the pan will finagle out of there without removing the cat. It was a 98' SOHC with true duals back to the muffler. My ohv trans pan was easier access.

 

[08_sploder]

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[nitrodude]

My x is 2wd.

 

[koda2000]

most likely the valve cover gasket is leaking. fairly easy fix. as far as the black plugs, yes this is indicative of running rich. also try wiping your finger in the tip of the exhaust pipe. if it comes out black, you're definitely running rich. this can be caused by faulty/worn out O2 sensors. have they ever been changed? they're good for about 100-120K.

 

[nitrodude]

No idea on previous maintaince for this truck. Other then the couple receipts in the glove box for brakes in 2011, a misfire/Code reading where they replaced one spark plug and fixed an open circuit on a fuel injector? And scanned codes.

Guess ill be seeing how hard it is to replace the valve gaskets, I did em on my old accord as it wasn't bad-except scrapping 10 year old gasket off it.

 

[koda2000]

No idea on previous maintaince for this truck. Other then the couple receipts in the glove box for brakes in 2011, a misfire/Code reading where they replaced one spark plug and fixed an open circuit on a fuel injector? And scanned codes.

Guess ill be seeing how hard it is to replace the valve gaskets, I did em on my old accord as it wasn't bad-except scrapping 10 year old gasket off it.

i'm guessing no scrapping required (they should be rubber) but I could be wrong about that. be sure to buy quality replacements (like Felpro brand) and see if Felpro offers a premium set for your valve covers (the blue rubber ones with the anti-crush sleeves, more expensive but well worth it).

 

[nitrodude]

The accords used to be rubber but after 10+ year of engine heat they were more like melted plastic lol.
Ill check with autozone today.
I also need a new seal for the passenger side pop out ent window (the small window on the 2 doors) mine seems to have been replace with thin weather striping that doesn't seal at all.

 

[koda2000]

The accords used to be rubber but after 10+ year of engine heat they were more like melted plastic lol.
Ill check with autozone today.
I also need a new seal for the passenger side pop out ent window (the small window on the 2 doors) mine seems to have been replace with thin weather striping that doesn't seal at all.

for the window seal, check with RockAuto, LMC Truck or Google it.

 

[tgibbonsfordluv]

FYI: bad head gaskets don't leak oil. they leak coolant. your engine oil leak might be the pan gasket or valve cover gasket (if your lucky). it could also be the rear crankshaft seal if you see oil between the rear of the oil pan and the transmission bell housing - much bigger job.

Head gaskets CAN leak oil, I've seen it. Admittedly, I've never heard of an ex doing it. If there's a lot of oil, sometimes you can get lucky and see it flowing if you inspect it while the engine is running and the oil passages are pressurized. Won't do it like that for a valve cover gasket, but a head or intake gasket will.

For your hard to reach bolt on the trans pan, try a gear wrench with a flexing head. May give you just enough room to slip over the top and get it out. Here's a link so you can see what they look like.

http://toolguyd.com/gearwrench-flex-head-ratcheting-wrench-sets-30/

I'm really not sure on your 2 plugs though. I'll let someone with a SOHC explorer field that one.

 

[tgibbonsfordluv]

The oil looks like its coming from the head gasket.
Could be the valve cover gasket though.
I just know the top o the 3rd cylinder header is coated in oil lol

Top of the cylinder head is probably the valve cover gasket. The head gasket will run it down the side of the block. Oil does not leak "up".

 

[nitrodude]

I can get to all the trans pan bolts, problem would be trying to drop the pan with the cat still in-I don't think it would clear the cat and slide out.
The bolt I can't reach is on the cat. And I don't think I could get the torque to break lose that old rusty bolt with one of those lol

Ill clean the oil off and check to see if I can see where it's leaking from

 

[koda2000]

"Head gaskets CAN leak oil, I've seen it."

granted i'm a bit old school, but I've never seen an engine that had oil passages running into the block through a head gasket. they typically drain back into the valley. maybe if the head was cracked... where did you see this happening.

 

[nitrodude]

Anyone know the correct part number from rockauto for the passenger side 2 door pop out window gasket? They have a ton of different ones listed, not sure which one will work. It's been pouring everyday here in Florida need tho fixed ASAP

 

[xpolice-explorer]

"6 double plutonium plugs (parts guy recommended em)"

Absolutely no advantage here...IMHO a waste of $$$. NGK or AUTOLITE are very reliable, last longer, and much cheaper.

You also haven't said whether or not you have finally replaced the other 2 plugs. Very hard on the coils trying to fire mismatched (2) plugs, and I have seen people leave a factory installed plug in because they could not get to it . Could still be some of your starting issue if you haven't.

You replaced plugs but not wires? Also no advantage in putting new plugs in; if there is high resistance in a wire or two and your not getting enough through to fire them.

Just something to think about.

 

[nitrodude]

Haven't found a way to get the other two plugs out

This isn't my daily vehicle yet. Not even registered. Getting very thing sorted out with it before I start driving it. Once I get it all done I want to daily drive it.
If you have any recommendations to get out the last two plugs, please let me know.

As it is the three plugs I pulled from the driver side were motorcraft while the plugi managed to get out from the passenger side was a autolite.


The plugs I purchased were autolite double Platinum. Guy said they were better for higher mileage vehicles plus they had a rebate on em plus the regular platinum were out of stock.

 

[koda2000]

Haven't found a way to get the other two plugs out

This isn't my daily vehicle yet. Not even registered. Getting very thing sorted out with it before I start driving it. Once I get it all done I want to daily drive it.
If you have any recommendations to get out the last two plugs, please let me know.

As it is the three plugs I pulled from the driver side were motorcraft while the plugi managed to get out from the passenger side was a autolite.


The plugs I purchased were autolite double Platinum. Guy said they were better for higher mileage vehicles plus they had a rebate on em plus the regular platinum were out of stock.

there's nothing wrong with using Autolite, or Motorcraft, double platinum plugs. they're both made by the same company (Autolite) and single platinum plugs are what is recommended for your engine. the double's will last a little longer, so there's no harm there. I don't have any advice for changing your last 2 plugs, but going through the wheel well, or from the top, many have accomplished this task, so don't give up. I've always found that some combination of extensions and a universal joint usually works. I do advise you to also install new plug wires anytime you change the plugs, as they wear out at about the same time (75-100K). changing these parts may, or may not solve your hard-start problems, but it's the place to begin.

 

[nitrodude]

Work on this trucks been slow.
Been trying to figure out where the oil leak is from, I started to think alve cover gasket was correct due to oil being on the driver side header from the cylinder closest to the firewall.
But looking closer, the oil looks like its coming from something higher up then the valve cover gasket.
The far back valve cover bolt is coated in oil, as well as part of the valve cover.
Not sure what else around there can leak oil, I can't see any visible leaks.

I noticed the black crud/assumed oil on the headers right after changing the spark plugs. Maybe the soot came out of the cylinder? (Hope not)
Not sure what else it could be or were to look for leaks.
Tried tightening the valves cover bolts I could reach and they seemed pretty snug.

Any suggestions on what to check/look for?

I also noticed my passenger side upper
shock bolt was loose! So many small issues with this truck.
I also hear a small amount of chain/valve noise, as well as a random tapping noise from under the engine by the oil pan. Hope it's not a rod Beaton after all the time and money spent on everything else on this truck!