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flashing 4x4 lights after gear change?

Post padder :p
 



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dreamr said:
Hey your supposed to solve my 4x4 issues so we can go play again not
heckle. j/k
You put all that money into the WRONG TRUCK :navajo: :D
 












:navajo: Not the one I was thinking about. :navajo:

:navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo: :navajo:
 


















dreamr said:
Does it connect to a removable part such as the hall sensors for easy cleaning, or is it wired into that internal abs ring described in the locker instructions?
Yes, one bolt and the hall sensor should come out.
 






Well I kept wondering if I had got that shift motor back together as I should, and furthermore if it even worked. I completely disassembled and cleaned it again before getting everything perfectly aligned. I tried for 1/2 an hour with various 1/16th to 1/8" increments to get the sensor just right, but it never kicked in when plugged into the vehicle. I did connect the shift motor to a 12 volt power source and it instantly kicked on.
I think this should rule the motor out completely.

I pulled the radio bezel yet again to get at the wiring running to the TOD relay and the GEM. I connected the brown wire back to itself, but of course that had no effect on my concerns.

While it was apart we pulled the 4x4 switch out and tested it. Not really knowing what I was looking for I generally just tested for continuity between the pins in it's various positions. None were registering so I opened the cap up.

Inside the three circuits for the three 4x4 settings each have their own resistor with a stamped on value.
The largest in physical size, and what I believe to be 4-low is stamped 361 and tested out at 362
Next was stamped 180 something I believe, but showed no resistance when tested.
The third was stamped 396 and also had no resistance.

Does that mean the switch is caput? If so, would that trigger the 4x4 lights, as well as stopping the 4-low shift?

Also while I was cleaning up the locker wiring I checked all of the lines and the sensor on the brake pedal. All was well.

So as I understand it. I flip the switch and a signal is sent to the GEM which then sends the signal to the shift motor for the 4-low shift, or to the TOD relay which engages the front driveshaft clutches. Knowing that the shift motor works, but is not getting power to it signifies to me that the problem is earlier in the system than the motor and hall sensor harness. Indicating that either the switch isn't notifying the GEM, or the GEM isn't sending out the signal.

Given, the signal may being stopped by the GEM due to whatever is causing the lights, but it keeps nagging at me that when this first started I still was able to shift into low range for a day or two with all the other symptoms consistent with the present.

So I guess to summarize what I think I know.

Brakes/ABS= all sensors appear to be plugged in and in good condition. System is functioning normally

Shift Motor= clean and operating normally with outside power supply. Does not turn on when attached to harness.

Speed/hall Sensors= cleaned and appear to be ok. Does anyone know how to test these?

Wiring between GEM and t-case= intact and in good condition

GEM= ?????????? I have no clue how to test the functions??????????

Dash Switch=again I have no clue how to test the function, but my test above seems odd to me.

Any input? particularly on the switch test results and the testing of the GEM signals.
 






I've been following this, wish i could help more. If you hooked the shift motor back up and tried it on the truck, then that is another reason that would say that your switch is bad. Well, maybe. If something isn't allow it to work, like he GEM, then i don't know.

I'm interested to see what comes of this.
 






I am going to start calling the junk yards looking for an 87 to 00 X.
If I can find me a good old fashioned you pull, then I plan on picking up a new switch, GEM, and speed sensors from t-case and rear differential.
I hate spending money pointlessly, but it has to be in the switch or GEM. I have no idea how to test the speed sensors, so I might as well try and find some super cheap replacements at the junk yard.

Is there a specific code on the GEM that I need to match?
Or, are they all interchangeable from 97-00????
 






Well where am I at on all of this?

The problem remains unchanged. As I mentioned in earlier posts:
The shift motor has been torn down and tested.

The hall-sensors and the rear dif VSS have been removed cleaned and tested.

I pulled the cover on the rear dif to check the ABS/Excitor ring

Wiring from t-case to behind the dash is intact.

I have a 4x4 switch on the way as I can't find specs to test mine, and it
cost next to nothing.

My EEC programming has been recalibrated for the new gears

Where to now? I have been trying to locate a parts donor at a junk yard, with no luck so it looks like new stuff will have to replace whatever is broken. Meaning I want to avoid unneccessary cost. All I can think of next is the GEM or that stupid switch, but I doubt that would cause the lights to flash.

So I guess in short? I'll ask a couple questions again to seek an answer ;)

Can I use any GEM from a 1997 to 2000 control trac explorer?

How do I test the GEM?

Anymore ideas???

Please, I don't want to go to the dealer and explain how and why my truck has changed so much since fall. (we need a pathetic smiley)
 












I was thinking last night about my lights blinking when i took out the electric case for the new one. I said earlier that i didn't remember them blinking, but thats because my memory is fading, lol.

I now remember that after i put the manual in, i pulled the radio out and found the wires running to the dash lights for the 4x4 and i cut them.

I'd say it's going to have to be your GEM.
 






I am beginning to think that it is in the GEM as well, but I really hope that I am worng.

I finally gave up!
I went to the dealership to price new sensors (both hall and VSS)
about 50 for each hall and another 30 for the vss :rolleyes:

In my opinion that is to much money just to test a theory. While I was there I scheduled a diagnostic appointment on Tuesday morning. Hopefully they can quickly find a part at fault that is covered by warranty ;)

In the meantime........................I have three days to try and positively diagnose and correct my issue if I want to save some cash for mods.
 






Don't go to a Ford Dealer for the codes. I called and got quoted for $80, just to read the codes.
Then I went to a local "Autolab" shop and they read the codes for $30 Bucks and now I know that my flashing was caused by the Xfercase Fr shaft speed sensor. So I ordered that at the same shop for $32 instead of $42 at the Ford Dealership and I hope tomorrow I should be able have fun in that upcoming Snowstorm in Michigan again...

Just check yahoo yellow pages for shops and call a few to see if they can scan the 4x4 module and have them quote you for just the scan.
 






The guys at the neighborhood garage do a lot of little things for me for free (like welding and in this case use their fancy scanners)

Sad thing is they found nothing but the fact that my A/c is getting low. I don't know if their Snap-On computer thingy can communicate with the GEM but they thought it would.

Ahh what the hell we'll let Ford have a go. That way if their is an expensive part the diagnostics go toward the warranty deductible.

I'll let y'all know what comes of it tomorrow.
 












So after 4 hours at the dealer guess what their diagnosis is????

They're not sure and as confused as me.

In a way that makes me feel better, but not really.

They were able to eliminate all of the things that I eliminated in the above several posts above :rolleyes:

The tech had two more thoughts on it. His first thought is that it very well could be the TOD relay. I guess there are really 2 relays back there. One for the auto and high, and a second Shift control relay for low) Or the GEM is at fault.

The relay is currently being sent up from Portland and will be installed for a test tomorrow as they didn't have a used unit on hand to test with.

Hopefully that will cure the issue being under 50$ if not well I guess I get to buy a new GEM. Oops let me rephrase that. Easy-care gets to buy a new GEM :D Still got 13'000 miles on that warranty hope I don't need it again, but it has already paid for itself 3 times over (thanks to mechanic error).
 



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Well....................................................
To update the thread a little. The ford techs spent a couple hours with my girl this morning. A new TOD relay and shift control relay (both behind dash) were installed.

The symptoms remained unchanged. They (3 of em :D ) spent the next hour and a half running through the entire diagnostic procedure again. They even followed the book LoL. They had 5 shift motors and a big rubber mallet under there at one point :D

In the end they buttoned it all back up and decided that it must be in the GEM for they had tested absolutely everything else they could think of.

The sad part is that the dealership has covered the cost of all the parts they have had to order to test with. The GEM though I have to buy. They claim this is due to it being a pretty vehicle specific application that they do not stock at service centers. The part that intrigued me was when he (service writer) says he'll call Easy Care after the new GEM theory is tested and see if they will cover it if that is what is wrong. If it's not I'm supposed to pay for it. Hmmm

Well I guess we will see if a new GEM cures the problem on Monday.
I still find it very unusual though that the GEM would just decide to fail on the day I was regeared.

One other oddity. This whole time they have been unable to get my truck to shift into 4 low electronically. You can obviously shift it by hand. So anyway no 4 low. As they wen't to pull it out of the shop guess what happened. She decided to shift in to 4 low on her own and refused to shift back out. She's just teasing them, and trying to keep me from scarring her when I test out that new locker. :D :fire: :D

So the tech goes back into the shop and comes out with a little black box with probes. He plugs it into the GEM and "spikes" it back into auto. Out of curiosity I had him try to send it to low and the truck refused. Now how does this all work?
 






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