Fluctuating temp gauge, losing coolant 01 5.0

[koda2000]

I still suspect the fan clutch. I guess it's possible the w/p impeller is not doing it's job, but based on your video, the results of your fan clutch test are inconclusive, if your engine/radiator was at normal operating temp and the fan spun that easily, I'd say it's bad. the fan clutch is much easier to change than the w/p. didn't you state that as long as the tuck was moving the temp stated ok?

 

[shadowless127]

I still suspect the fan clutch. I guess it's possible the w/p impeller is not doing it's job, but based on your video, the results of your fan clutch test are inconclusive, if your engine/radiator was at normal operating temp and the fan spun that easily, I'd say it's bad. the fan clutch is much easier to change than the w/p. didn't you state that as long as the tuck was moving the temp stated ok?

If the truck is moving the temp is fine, but once I stop for the temp starts to rise.

Here's a pic of me spinning the fan with the engine off. Coolant temp was at 185F prior to me turning the engine off.

 

[koda2000]

If the truck is moving the temp is fine, but once I stop for the temp starts to rise.

Here's a pic of me spinning the fan with the engine off. Coolant temp was at 185F prior to me turning the engine off.

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It's a little hard to see in your video, but seems a bit loose to me. If the problem was the w/p I'd think the temp would rise even while moving. If I go out today, I'll check one of my 5.0 fans with engine hot. While you're moving air is being forced through the radiator as if the fan is spinning. When you're stopped you're depending 100% on the fan to move air.

 

[shadowless127]

If the fan clutch was bad wouldn't the fan spin slow, or not at all? I let the car sit for 30min and started it up and the fan was spinning like normal. I was under the impression a bad clutch would let the fan free spin for an entire revolution.

The only reason I suspect Water Pump is that if the impeller is corroded it won't push enough water through at lower RPMs as it would at higher RPMs.

 

[koda2000]

The fan will always appear to spin. When a clutch goes bad and locks-up (spins at full speed all the time) you hear kind of a roaring sound on startup.

I just went outside and tried spinning the fan on my stone-cold 5.0. I could barely get it to spin freely at all. It wanted to stop immediately once I let go of it. I had to spin it as hard/fast as I could to see any free-wheeling. When my daughter gets home, with her 5.0, I'll try spinning hers hot and see what the difference is.

 

[shadowless127]

The fan will always appear to spin. When a clutch goes bad and locks-up (spins at full speed all the time) you hear kind of a roaring sound on startup.

I just went outside and tried spinning the fan on my stone-cold 5.0. I could barely get it to spin freely at all. It wanted to stop immediately once I let go of it. I had to spin it as hard/fast as I could to see any free-wheeling. When my daughter gets home, with her 5.0, I'll try spinning hers hot and see what the difference is.

So your cold 5.0 fan spins LESS then my initial video of my cold test?

 

[koda2000]

So your cold 5.0 fan spins LESS then my initial video of my cold test?

Yes, absolutely.

My daughter just got home with her 5.0 and I tried spinning her fan by hand. Honestly, I don't see/feel much difference from stone-cold. She just drove about 10 miles on secondary roads and (for what it's worth) her temp gauge shows normal operating temp. Air temp is about 40 degrees F.

 

[shadowless127]

Yes, absolutely.

My daughter just got home with her 5.0 and I tried spinning her fan by hand. Honestly, I don't see/feel much difference from stone-cold. She just drove about 10 miles on secondary roads and (for what it's worth) her temp gauge shows normal operating temp. Air temp is about 40 degrees F.

Ok. For what it's worth, my fan at op temp and cold felt the same as well. It's about 36F here so ambient temp isn't much different.

Guess I'll have my mechanic replace the fan clutch and go from there. If that doesn't work the good news is then it has to be the water pump lol

 

[koda2000]

Ok. For what it's worth, my fan at op temp and cold felt the same as well. It's about 36F here so ambient temp isn't much different.

Guess I'll have my mechanic replace the fan clutch and go from there. If that doesn't work the good news is then it has to be the water pump lol

Well, good luck. I hope it fixes your problem. Labor shouldn't be bad on the clutch replacement. Disconnect the trans lines at the rad, 2 bolts to release the fan shroud and they'll have enough room to remove/replace the fan and clutch. I did this job a couple of months ago to replace my badly cracked plastic fan. It's a little tight, but if I can do the job with my huge hands, the mechanic should be able to.

 

[shadowless127]

Well, good luck. I hope it fixes your problem. Labor shouldn't be bad on the clutch replacement. Disconnect the trans lines at the rad, 2 bolts to release the fan shroud and they'll have enough room to remove/replace the fan and clutch. I did this job a couple of months ago to replace my badly cracked plastic fan. It's a little tight, but if I can do the job with my huge hands, the mechanic should be able to.

AllData book time shows 0.7hrs so it shouldn't be bad. Just wish fan clutches were a bit cheaper then $100.

 

[koda2000]

AllData book time shows 0.7hrs so it shouldn't be bad. Just wish fan clutches were a bit cheaper then $100.

Well, I don't know what quality you'd be happy with, but they can be had for less.

Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Radiato...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a7e03e7a&vxp=mtr

You can also check prices on frugalmechanic.com and Amazon.

 

[shadowless127]

Well, I don't know what quality you'd be happy with, but they can be had for less.

Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Radiato...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a7e03e7a&vxp=mtr

You can also check prices on frugalmechanic.com and Amazon.

Actually found some Pepboys Coupons (they are the only store that has it locally) and was able to snag a Hayden Clutch for $83 with tax. Pick it up tonight, will have it installed this weekend.

 

[shadowless127]

UPDATE: Got the X back from the mechanic, and I was right, the water pump was bad. Actually, to call it bad would be polite. All 6 fins were gone and 2 of the blades were gone.

 

[koda2000]

UPDATE: Got the X back from the mechanic, and I was right, the water pump was bad. Actually, to call it bad would be polite. All 6 fins were gone and 2 of the blades were gone.

Humph... That's unusual (but not unheard of). Did the impeller fins rust away? If the cooling system was serviced regularly (every 2-3 years or so) there shouldn't have been any rust. Well at least you got it solved. What did they charge you to replace the W/P? Did you have them install a new fan clutch while they were in there?

 

[shadowless127]

Humph... That's unusual (but not unheard of). Did the impeller fins rust away? If the cooling system was serviced regularly (every 2-3 years or so) there shouldn't have been any rust. Well at least you got it solved. What did they charge you to replace the W/P? Did you have them install a new fan clutch while they were in there?

I paid to have the system flushed a little less than 3 years ago, and was actually going to schedule another flush before this happened.

They rusted away, my mechanic didn't seem surprised at all, he says it's more common then you'd think on pumps with metal impellers. He charged me $250 for the pump, a new elbow hose, and labor. No, didn't do the fan clutch. I had him test it prior to diagnosing the water pump and he said it's functioning correctly, which is what led him to the water pump.

 

[koda2000]

I paid to have the system flushed a little less than 3 years ago, and was actually going to schedule another flush before this happened.

They rusted away, my mechanic didn't seem surprised at all, he says it's more common then you'd think on pumps with metal impellers. He charged me $250 for the pump, a new elbow hose, and labor. No, didn't do the fan clutch. I had him test it prior to diagnosing the water pump and he said it's functioning correctly, which is what led him to the water pump.

$250 is a good price for the pump and that much labor.

 

[shadowless127]

$250 is a good price for the pump and that much labor.

It's going rate for the job around here, but my step mom has been using him exclusively for years and he has always done right by her. I'll be going back there in a few months to have the system flushed again to get rid of any remaining residue from the failed WP and have my AC serviced (I'm not going another summer with no AC).