Flushing the brake fluid - ABS

[SoNic67]

How do I purge the master using the purge valve as seen in the picture (with the rubber cap, like at calipers). Is it like the procedure for calipers?

 

[waskly]

think that port is blocked off, for a clutch application. not a bleeder for a master.

 

[DUNE RCR]

You have to bench bleed the master cylinder. I haven't done one in forever but its not too terribly hard. Just search the web and I'm sure you will find a video to help you do it. I'm going to be doing it here in the next few months when I take my truck off the road for a complete rebuild. Just remember to keep fluid levels topped off at all times, because as soon as you get even the tiniest bubble in the system you have to start the procedure all over again.

 

[DUNE RCR]

Here try watching this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOuDEiwiozQ

 

[SoNic67]

think that port is blocked off, for a clutch application. not a bleeder for a master.

Aaah, makes sense. Thanks.

You have to bench bleed the master cylinder.

I realized that I need to look for bleeding on the vehicle, not on bench.

However, I want to flush all the fluid, including the ABS body. In case that I do trap air in it... I think I can command opening the ABS valves with my ScanXL - is there a document to describe the procedure?

 

[DUNE RCR]

I have always just bled everything separately and working down the line as I go, master cyl>front brakes>back brakes... I have never bled an ABS module though.

 

[Torqueranger]

It's a pain in the butt trying to bleed the abs system because you need a special computer to cycle the solenoids but I heard that it can be done without the computer but you have to fool the system and make the abs work...

 

[Talon1]

You can bleed the abs without the expensesive solenoid cycling machine. It's pretty easy. Focus on the calipers. Remove them from the rotors and pump your brakes until the pistons come out. I put some spacers in the caliper to prevent the piston from coming completely out. Then remove the bleeder valve and the brake line. Don't drain the caliper. I stuck cotton balls in the brake line to reduce drainage. MAKE SURE YOUR RESEVOIR IS FULL BEFORE DOING THIS! Hold the caliper flat, so no fluid spills and proceed to pour more fluid into either the brake line hole or the bleeder hole, all the way to the top. Might want to shake it a little to be sure as much fluid gets in there as possible. Then reinstall the line and valve and take a c clamp and press the pistons down all the way. I did this three times each side and fixed air in the abs system. It is basically a reverse bleeding method and works great.

 

[SoNic67]

But that will push all the gunk from the lines INSIDE the ABS block. Is asking for troubles IMO.

 

[Talon1]

So your saying gunk lives in you abs block? Doesnt make sense. By the time I figured this system out, I had bled my brakes so much that all fluid was new and when I pushed fluid back thru the calipers, no gunk came out of the block. What level of gunk would cause problems, anyway? One thing we know is that air can and does get trappped, but not so sure about gunk.
I have been driving my vehicle and having zero problems. Your speculations of doubt appear to be unfounded. Anyone is welcome to take their car to the stealership. Do you work at one?

 

[ford91exploder]

Use a pressure bleeder, I built one out of a garden sprayer and a KD pressure bleed adapter set, then all you have to do is fill the sprayer with a few quarts of brake fluid attach the adapter to the master cylinder and open the bleeder valves till fluid runs clear easy and you dont need a helper