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ford 8.8 emergency brake...possible to replace without pulling shafts

iwishihad1

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hey everybody

im really a jeep guy, but i figured who would know more about this then yall. im almost done building my XJ. rear 8.8, dana 44 front, 38s, and 5:13s. i thought it was going to be strictly for trail, but now i want to be able to drive it on the road also, so in VA it needs to be inspected

when i built the 8.8, the original e-brakes were rusted, and corroded so i just pulled it all out, now im kicking myself for it. i found everything i need at napa is about 40 bucks which isn't too bad. ive installed a lock right locker in the rear, which makes pulling the shafts a real pain. is there ANY way to install ebrake pads/springs/adjuster without having to pull the shafts. i dont care if it takes me and extra 2-3 hours, so long as i dont have to pull the shafts

thanks
 



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hey everybody

im really a jeep guy, but i figured who would know more about this then yall. im almost done building my XJ. rear 8.8, dana 44 front, 38s, and 5:13s. i thought it was going to be strictly for trail, but now i want to be able to drive it on the road also, so in VA it needs to be inspected

when i built the 8.8, the original e-brakes were rusted, and corroded so i just pulled it all out, now im kicking myself for it. i found everything i need at napa is about 40 bucks which isn't too bad. ive installed a lock right locker in the rear, which makes pulling the shafts a real pain. is there ANY way to install ebrake pads/springs/adjuster without having to pull the shafts. i dont care if it takes me and extra 2-3 hours, so long as i dont have to pull the shafts

thanks

Definitely can be done, its just a PITA. Long reach pliers may help get the springs off.

You may have to put the shoes in with one spring (the top back one I believe) connected (a trio). Wear leather gloves when you do this, you have to stretch and finagle until you get it right.

Be sure to use lots of high temp brake grease unless you want to do this job again.
 






Ditto... It CAN be done, but it's far from fun...

-Joe
 






took me 2 hours last time I did them on my BII, its really not too bad if you are used to drum brakes. I personally HATE doing drum brakes, but find myself doing them all the time LOL
Of course I convert to rear discs and it comes with a drum brake e brake = sucks, but you only have to do this one time if you can keep yourself from wheeling 7 miles in low range with the E- brake depressed (ooops whats that smell?) and if you use it regular-ly then it should last a good long time.

Air gun is very helpful if your 8.8 has seen some mud LOL
 






thanks everybody....well it sounds possible

anybody got any diagrams, or write ups, so i can see how all the springs, star nut, and other misc pieces go in there?
 






thanks everybody....well it sounds possible

anybody got any diagrams, or write ups, so i can see how all the springs, star nut, and other misc pieces go in there?

www.autozone.com has a manual explaining exactly how it is done. What took me all the time was grinding the rust off the linkages. Make sure you coat all the parts with a thin coat of either anti-sieze or high temp brake grease (not the clear stuff, you have to ask for this product).

I did it once before and it ended up siezing up and had the pleasure again. Make sure your cables are rust free and test that they don't bind in their sheath. May even be worth disconnecting everything to see. If a cable binds, or you have rust, the brakes stay on, you drive with your ebrake and you will be doing it again next inspection.

Also, don't cheap out on the brake shoes. I would opt for a brand name, not worth saving $10 here. THe cheap ones had the friction material slip off.

I did it right, and I use the brake every day now. Works great for years. And yes, I did have a leak where the rear brakes were lost. The e-brake allowed me to drive home safely.
 






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