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How to: Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

dstro

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Check the spark plugs.

Thanks, I'll double check, but wouldn't all 6 have to be failing for it to be a no start? With spark at each tower on the coil pack? Plus why would I have been able to start it three times, then ten min later nothing?

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Not Sure. That was part of my overall plan anyway, to get it started and then replace the filter. In that order just because it's stuck on an incline and jacking might be a bit sketchy. No feelings of misfire when I crank. I don't think it's a spark issue.

When I first hooked up the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was way low until I purged and pumped a cpl times. Then it was strong and held. It's still strong and holding now, I just don't know what changed in the 5 min it took for me to disconnect and button her up.

Thanks for the replies guys...this is extremely annoying.
 


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2000StreetRod

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clean CKP sensor connector

You might try cleaning the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connections by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector a couple times.

On my 2000 PATS disables the fuel injectors when an unrecognized ignition key is used. 60 psi is plenty of fuel pressure. Try spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold downstream of the throttle plate and see if the engine runs for a second or two. If so, then you probably have a PATS problem.
 




dstro

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You might try cleaning the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connections by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector a couple times.

On my 2000 PATS disables the fuel injectors when an unrecognized ignition key is used. 60 psi is plenty of fuel pressure. Try spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold downstream of the throttle plate and see if the engine runs for a second or two. If so, then you probably have a PATS problem.

Hmm...I didn't notice the THEFT signal flashing differently, but I wasn't looking too carefully, I will check. I was thinking it may be the CKP but I was getting spark, and I thought that if the CKP sensor was off, it would kill the pulses to the ignition coil? Either way...I'm gonna look into these. Thanks!
 




dstro

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ok, so I went out to check all the suggestions, above. Before doing ANYTHING I tried to start her up, and she turned over! I engaged the throttle a couple times, and was hearing a noise, when the rpms would die down to idle. Sounded like a hard revving...deeper and chunkier/clunkier than usual, but not really like misfiring cylinders, and coming from underneath the body (description sucks I know). And I didn't really hear it while sitting at an idle, only when returning, maybe 3-2000rpms. I left the engine on and had a helper accelerate on/of while I crawled underneath. There was white smoke coming from the muffler pan of the exhaust and I notice some dripping liquid. It's black (may be from dirt/rust) and more watery than oil, but it's too dirty to seem like coolant. Anyway, I had my helper kill the engine, and now I can't get it started again.

What was the liquid? Doesn't coolant usually burn white? Why would coolant be so dirty? I feel like there's a leak somewhere in my exhaust...would this lead to a crank no start? Thanks for the suggestions...I'm not sure know which issue should take priority for diagnosis.

Oh and starter fluid in the intake still does not start the car even for a couple seconds...doesn't that bring me back to a spark issue?
 




Kravist

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Checking the fuel pressure is STEP 10. Did you complete the prior steps? If not, go back.

If you have completed the prior steps:

Assuming you are checking fuel pressure at the fuel rail, that is plenty of pressure indicating that your fuel pump is working and that your fuel filter is NOT clogged, so move on to the next step.
 




dstro

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Checking the fuel pressure is STEP 10. Did you complete the prior steps? If not, go back.

If you have completed the prior steps:

Assuming you are checking fuel pressure at the fuel rail, that is plenty of pressure indicating that your fuel pump is working and that your fuel filter is NOT clogged, so move on to the next step.

I checked for everything else prior. I now however have no fuel pressure at the fuel rail, so I am going back and starting from scratch. Thanks.
 




celm

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im having issues also with no starting

i ahve spark
i have fuel
no codes
i sprayed starter fluid in there also and it wont fire
 




2000StreetRod

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won't start on starting fluid

Usually if the engine won't start on starting fluid that indicates no spark or incorrect spark timing.

How did you determine that you have spark?

Check the ignition wires to make sure #5 and #6 are correctly routed. They are not in sequential order on the coil pack.

Clean the crankshaft position sensor by disconnecting and reconnecting the electrical connector twice.

Check compression and spark plugs.
 




celm

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Usually if the engine won't start on starting fluid that indicates no spark or incorrect spark timing.

How did you determine that you have spark?

Check the ignition wires to make sure #5 and #6 are correctly routed. They are not in sequential order on the coil pack.

Clean the crankshaft position sensor by disconnecting and reconecting the electrical connector twice.

Check compression and spark plugs.
I pulled.one of the spark plug wires and stuck a spark plug and watched it.spark while it zapped me.lol

The truck.ran fine Thursday night and wouldn't start on Friday morning
 




BigBear1987

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Great guide ! Parked 97 explorer and wouldn't start...
Went through whole guide only to unplug and disconnect crankcase position sensor and reconnect it again, X roars into life 1st time.
 




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This procedure diagnoses a No Start engine problem. The procedure is based on information from the Ford Service Manual and my personal experience. The numbered steps should be performed in the order listed.

1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start?
Yes: Verify key validity
Check Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
No: Go to next numbered step

2. Check fuel tank gauge reading. If fuel possibly contains water or condensation from cold add treatment to the tank.

3. Turn ignition key from Off to On. Does fuel pump run for a few seconds?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Perform Fuel Pump Electrical Procedure

4. Does "CHECK ENGINE" illuminate?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Perform the PCM Power Procedure

5. Turn ignition key to Start
Does starter motor crank engine?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Perform Starter No crank procedure

6. Does "CHECK ENGINE" illuminate while engine cranks?
Yes: Check crankshaft position (CKP) sensor
One way to check the CKP sensor is to determine if the fuel pump runs when the starter is cranking. This can be done simply by listening to the pump.
No: Go to next numbered step

7. Check battery voltage

8. Perform TPS Test Procedure

9. Check ignition coils, plugs and wires. Some members have experienced ignition faults with Bosch platinum plugs.

10. Perform Fuel pressure test procedure

11. Check fuel injectors

12. Check compression

13. Check EGR system

14. Check engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor if not a cold start




How do I do this cause my Theft lights blinks fast tried my new new key I have.
How do you check that Passive Anty-Theft System (PATS)

1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start?
Yes: Verify key validity
Check Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
 








leoJr

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Subscribing. Very helpful!

I'm moving my comments to a similar "no crank" thread that is more relevant to my issue.

Why isn't that thread a sticky??

Thanks!
 




Kymberlee

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Starting Issues w/ 2008 Ford Explorer XLT

I have a 2008 Ford Explorer XLT that wouldn't start yesterday. Everything checked out to be working. My husband took one of the cables off the battery put it back on and then it started right up. Now still 12 hours later we are still having g to go through this whole process just to start it. Battery is good, fuses are good, and everything runs great....once it's started up. Please help
 








mcdaniel21

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I need help!!! I was driving my 2004 Ford Explorer down the interstate, was coasting down the hill and when i needed to accelerate and hit the gas my truck completely shut off... got it home and hooked it up to a hand held computer and it read the code for throttle stuck open. We change the TPS a year ago, so we changed the the throttle body actuator, recalibrated the throttle, tried to start it... It will crank bit won't start, it is draining my battery immediately as soon as i hit the switch... we checked the ground wires into the battery it was good. Had the battery tested and it was holding 12.5 volts... i would hate to take it to a garage... trying to get some advice before i do.... fyi i am a woman that does not know much about vehicles lol
 








mstiebel

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I'm going crazy and nearing my wit's end!

Background: I just bought my 2002 4.0L Ranger a couple of months ago and it had a rather severe death-rattle. I pulled the motor and replaced the timing chains. I put everything back where it came from without any left over parts. All of the electrical connections went back where they came from. I did separate the harmonic balancer/vibration damper/crank pulley during removal and replaced it with a new OEM vibration damper. All timing parts were replaced with new OEM. A couple aftermarket parts were used here and there (one valve cover bolt, water pump gasket, and a CKP crank position sensor which will be mentioned later in my diagnosis).

So my issue is no start and no spark. I've made it through most of the diagnosis procedure and stuck on item 6.

1. No "THEFT" blinking light and the key worked prior to pulling the motor.

2. The fuel gauge says full, assuming it is working. I have not had the truck long enough to know better.

3. The fuel pump seems to be operating properly. There is a high pitch sound that comes from the fuel tank area. The spark plugs are wet when pulled and smell of fuel.

4. "CHECK ENGINE" illuminates.

5. Motor cranks.

6. "CHECK ENGINE" illuminates after a few turns of the engine when cranking. I attempted listening to the fuel pump to determine if it runs while cranking but it is not loud enough to hear over the starter. I went ahead and replaced the CKP as mentioned above with an aftermarket sensor. Still no spark. I then tested the continuity of the conductors from the sensor to the PCM electrical connector, put the original CKP back on, disconnected and reconnected every connector again and again. Still no spark. I've tested the coil per a procedure listed on this site and it appears to be fine. I've checked and cleaned all ground points.

7. Battery voltage is fine.

8. I have not done the TPS test procedure, but I don't think this would prevent spark.

9. I've tested the coils per a procedure listed on this site and it appears to be fine. I've checked and cleaned all ground points. I bought a set of Bosch platinum plugs to replace the previous plugs while the motor was out. After reading this procedure I opted to put the originals back in since they worked before pulling the motor. I have not changed the wires but they worked before pulling the motor.

Lines 10 through 14 - Fuel appears to be available, compression is fine, EGR shouldn't prevent spark.

So where do I go from here? The new vibration damper has a timing ring that appears to be more of a stamped steel cage versus the more solid ground/machined timing marks on the original damper. Could the different construction be affecting the CKP? Are the OEM CKP sensors more sensitive? It seems there would be more talk about it on these forums if some CKPs weren't compatible.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike.
 




sprucewood

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I'm going crazy and nearing my wit's end!

Background: I just bought my 2002 4.0L Ranger a couple of months ago and it had a rather severe death-rattle. I pulled the motor and replaced the timing chains. I put everything back where it came from without any left over parts. All of the electrical connections went back where they came from. I did separate the harmonic balancer/vibration damper/crank pulley during removal and replaced it with a new OEM vibration damper. All timing parts were replaced with new OEM. A couple aftermarket parts were used here and there (one valve cover bolt, water pump gasket, and a CKP crank position sensor which will be mentioned later in my diagnosis).

So my issue is no start and no spark. I've made it through most of the diagnosis procedure and stuck on item 6.

1. No "THEFT" blinking light and the key worked prior to pulling the motor.

2. The fuel gauge says full, assuming it is working. I have not had the truck long enough to know better.

3. The fuel pump seems to be operating properly. There is a high pitch sound that comes from the fuel tank area. The spark plugs are wet when pulled and smell of fuel.

4. "CHECK ENGINE" illuminates.

5. Motor cranks.

6. "CHECK ENGINE" illuminates after a few turns of the engine when cranking. I attempted listening to the fuel pump to determine if it runs while cranking but it is not loud enough to hear over the starter. I went ahead and replaced the CKP as mentioned above with an aftermarket sensor. Still no spark. I then tested the continuity of the conductors from the sensor to the PCM electrical connector, put the original CKP back on, disconnected and reconnected every connector again and again. Still no spark. I've tested the coil per a procedure listed on this site and it appears to be fine. I've checked and cleaned all ground points.

7. Battery voltage is fine.

8. I have not done the TPS test procedure, but I don't think this would prevent spark.

9. I've tested the coils per a procedure listed on this site and it appears to be fine. I've checked and cleaned all ground points. I bought a set of Bosch platinum plugs to replace the previous plugs while the motor was out. After reading this procedure I opted to put the originals back in since they worked before pulling the motor. I have not changed the wires but they worked before pulling the motor.

Lines 10 through 14 - Fuel appears to be available, compression is fine, EGR shouldn't prevent spark.

So where do I go from here? The new vibration damper has a timing ring that appears to be more of a stamped steel cage versus the more solid ground/machined timing marks on the original damper. Could the different construction be affecting the CKP? Are the OEM CKP sensors more sensitive? It seems there would be more talk about it on these forums if some CKPs weren't compatible.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike.
I'm going crazy and nearing my wit's end!

Background: I just bought my 2002 4.0L Ranger a couple of months ago and it had a rather severe death-rattle. I pulled the motor and replaced the timing chains. I put everything back where it came from without any left over parts. All of the electrical connections went back where they came from. I did separate the harmonic balancer/vibration damper/crank pulley during removal and replaced it with a new OEM vibration damper. All timing parts were replaced with new OEM. A couple aftermarket parts were used here and there (one valve cover bolt, water pump gasket, and a CKP crank position sensor which will be mentioned later in my diagnosis).

So my issue is no start and no spark. I've made it through most of the diagnosis procedure and stuck on item 6.

1. No "THEFT" blinking light and the key worked prior to pulling the motor.

2. The fuel gauge says full, assuming it is working. I have not had the truck long enough to know better.

3. The fuel pump seems to be operating properly. There is a high pitch sound that comes from the fuel tank area. The spark plugs are wet when pulled and smell of fuel.

4. "CHECK ENGINE" illuminates.

5. Motor cranks.

6. "CHECK ENGINE" illuminates after a few turns of the engine when cranking. I attempted listening to the fuel pump to determine if it runs while cranking but it is not loud enough to hear over the starter. I went ahead and replaced the CKP as mentioned above with an aftermarket sensor. Still no spark. I then tested the continuity of the conductors from the sensor to the PCM electrical connector, put the original CKP back on, disconnected and reconnected every connector again and again. Still no spark. I've tested the coil per a procedure listed on this site and it appears to be fine. I've checked and cleaned all ground points.

7. Battery voltage is fine.

8. I have not done the TPS test procedure, but I don't think this would prevent spark.

9. I've tested the coils per a procedure listed on this site and it appears to be fine. I've checked and cleaned all ground points. I bought a set of Bosch platinum plugs to replace the previous plugs while the motor was out. After reading this procedure I opted to put the originals back in since they worked before pulling the motor. I have not changed the wires but they worked before pulling the motor.

Lines 10 through 14 - Fuel appears to be available, compression is fine, EGR shouldn't prevent spark.

So where do I go from here? The new vibration damper has a timing ring that appears to be more of a stamped steel cage versus the more solid ground/machined timing marks on the original damper. Could the different construction be affecting the CKP? Are the OEM CKP sensors more sensitive? It seems there would be more talk about it on these forums if some CKPs weren't compatible.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike.
 


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sprucewood

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Mike, you have spent lots time and money so why not replace the coil pack. Be sure your grounding the spark plug as you crank the engine over or spark will not occur. Check the fuse box ignition relay for continuity or replace both of them.
Buy a chilton repair manual and go to the ignition pages and the troublshooting pages. Also check the schraider valve for fuel pressure.
 




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