Front Brakes

[HOG1982]

I have a 1992 Explorer Sport and I cant seem to keep Rotors or Pads on this thing!! I replaced rotors and pads around 7 months ago and they are shot already.
The truck also has very bad vibration and tire howl that is driving me crazy. The tires are B.F GOODRICH and have less than 10,000 miles on them. Rotation did not help the problem. The brakes only have 9,000 miles on them. The truck has 100,400 miles on it and is not used hard at all. I was told by a mechanic that I should get used to putting brakes on this truck because it is a Ford problem. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Arnold D.]

Have you check the condition of your wheel bearings? Bad bearings can cause excessive run-out and ruin the rotors and pads... just a suggestion.

 

[Brian91]

Unfortunately, I have to agree. I have a 91 XLT with 208,000 miles and have gone through so many rotors and pads that I have lost count. I am currently running the top of the line Raybestos pads but I am not sure what rotors I have. These pads have been the longest lasting ones that I have tried and do not squeel like many others. All I can say is get used to going through many sets of pads and rotors......sorry.

 

[gijoecam]

Check the rear brakes... sounds like all the braking is being done by the fronts... my guess is that the rears are out of adjustment.

-Joe-

 

[Goober]

I don't know if it's a Ford thing, but these things are heavy. I haven't really had much of a problem with mine. The pads usually last about 40k (Raybestos Brut-Stop)and at 167,000 miles, I still have the original rotors(last turn a year ago). I can tell the difference though. Seems the thinner they get, the easier they are to start warping(obviously). I'll probably go with ART's when these are gone just for the additional stopping power(I can be hell on them).
I usually run 2 sets of front brakes to one rear set and have also heard the front does ~70% of the stopping duties. If your going through pads that fast I'd check,
1-the calipers are releasing the pads from the rotors
2-bleed/change fluid
3-make sure the rear brakes are working

If your gonna keep it for a while longer, get the upgraded ART's and it should help. They aren't a whole lot more than the regular rotors and seem to be a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[MikeTEC]

I agree with the idea of better rotors. I have slotted rotors from Explorer Express, along with their Performance Friction pads, and on my 93, I have noticed much better stopping power. Just by looking at them, they seem to be more HD than OEM. MikeTEC

 

[Dre]

good rotors yes but when it's time to buy don't just sattle for some cheap Chinese repos. There are some good ones out there. OEM won't give you best rotors too. Two things to consider when you're going this way with your brakes:
1) calipers....... it's about time you installed new ones (made a hell of a difference on mine).
2) rear brakes...... adjustment...... might not be too much left of them as well.


Works,

 

[Maniak]

At around 180k miles we replaced the Ford Rotors with a set from ART.. They are Cryo Treated/Slotted rotors. They ship them with a set of "performance friction" pads..

Since changing them we are not warping rotors anymore.. We used to warp them about every 20k miles (auto tranny and mountain don't mix)..

We are now at 228k miles and rotors are still great.. We are on our 2nd set of pads.. and they still had about 30% meat left on them but I like to change them on my terms.. not the brakes

The Rotors/Pad combo cost about $300 or so (a little higher)

Just another option..

Mark

 

[CONavajo]

I don't know if you have found the problem yet but heres some thoughts. I have a 91' Navajo that was vibrating and making a "howling" type noise that was driving me crazy. The local 4wheelparts that installed the lift climed it was bad ball joints. I pulled everything apart after they couldn't fix it and saw that they put the wheel nut lock in wrong alowing the wheel assembly to drift around. It had completely destroyed the innner bearing and scored the spindle. I did a few hours work on it with $40 in new bearings and now it rides, and sounds, like new. As far as the brakes go I have 150k+ on the original rotors with 4 pad changes. Some easy advice; don't tailgate so you don't have to mash the brakes all the time, pump your brakes once or twice while coming to a stop instead of riding them to the light, and never ride them on a downhill, let the engine slow you in third. If you are already easy on the brakes then check the pins the caliper is supposed to float on. This design is notorious for sticking, and ruining many a pad and rotor prematurely.

 

[Dre]

have you found the problem???

check those calipers,,,

 

[Sschultz]

I agree with Dre Check the calipers. The ford calipers have what is called a square O-ring in the caliper cylinder. It is designed to roll (twist) when the breaks are applied, and then roll back when the breaks are released. Over time dirt and break dust get in the O-ring area and causes them to fail. when they fail, they usually drag on the rotor causing excessive heat and usually warp the rotor, and if allowed to stay in this condition for to long it can eventually take out bearings(replacing rotors, and using the same bearing, but not replacing the calipers, over several pad changes). If you think about it the original break system lasts several thousands of miles. When the pads wore out, you replaced and replaced the secondary failed components (Rotors) with the same results. It's time to replace the root cause of the failure witch, in this case sounds like the calipers.

 

[Ryan1]

yo andre.

about your bumper. how much did that cost you after mods and all


Ryan1

 

[MikeTEC]

Looks like some good advice from everyone. Does anyone know if there is a net consenus on the highest quality caliper replacements (new) for 91-94 Explorers? Ford OEM, Bendix, Raebestos, ect...or others? Price is not a big factor but high quality is. MikeTEC

 

[Dre]

when it was time to replace calipers I just went with regular FLAPS calipers. Cheap rebuilt calipers and if they give you problems again, change them. You can also buy a rebuild kit to fix the old ones but it might not be worth it.

As far as my bumper....... which one? front one I bought from http://www.4wheelparts.com they were the cheapest. Bumper was $230.00 and a winch mount plate was $60.00. Shipping was quite a bit since UPS doesn't take it. (truck). I don't even remember, would have to look on the invoice. Then I had it sandblasted ($60.00) and then welded a brace in the front, and two light tabs. I then drilled two more holes in the plate to mount frame brace supports and painted it using POR-15. I figured that it probably costed me close to $500.oo total after everything. Quite a bit but well worth it. Winch plate fits both, Warn and Ramsey winches.

Later,