Front Drive Shaft?

[koda2000]

My daughter just had her 2000 Mountaineer AWD Tripled A'd to my house because it started making a loud clicking noise yesterday (which is coming from the front end). At first it sounded like it was coming from the driver's side wheel area, but I put it up on 4 safety stands and put it in gear. When I stopped the driver's front wheel front spinning the clicking noise kept happening with just the passenger front wheel spinning. So now I'm thinking front drive shaft. It's a sharp metallic clicking noise. I see RockAuto sells a reman front shaft for $300+ plus shipping, but on eBay I see Detroit Axle offers a brand new one w/free shipping for $159. Has anyone had any experience with the DA drive shafts?

While I need to fix this vehicle, my daughter will be buying a new car in a few weeks, so I don't want to put any more time or money into it than necessary. I'm letting her use my spare XLT in the meantime.

She plans to keep the Mountaineer as a weekend hauler.

Here's the eBay link. It says "brand new" and then it says "reman" under condition... whatever.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-C...AWD-/161566720362?hash=item259e20816a&vxp=mtr

 

[1998Exp]

I have a similar issue with mine: popping sounds from the front driveline somewhere, above 35 MPH, which persist even in neutral. They did go away when I removed the front driveshaft. The joints at its both ends appeared in very good condition, but I replaced the u-joint at the diff end anyway (it's cheap). The Dorman CV that I intended to use for the TC end fell apart before I could even install it, so gave up on that idea. Needless to say, the u-joint replacement had no effect. The half-shafts appear very solid and no clicking on turns, so at this point I think that the front diff is the culprit. This is supported by the fact that the backlash at the front wheels is at the upper limit of Ford's tolerance. Will be interesting to see what you found!

 

[koda2000]

I have a similar issue with mine: popping sounds from the front driveline somewhere, above 35 MPH, which persist even in neutral. They did go away when I removed the front driveshaft. The joints at its both ends appeared in very good condition, but I replaced the u-joint at the diff end anyway (it's cheap). The Dorman CV that I intended to use for the TC end fell apart before I could even install it, so gave up on that idea. Needless to say, the u-joint replacement had no effect. The half-shafts appear very solid and no clicking on turns, so at this point I think that the front diff is the culprit. This is supported by the fact that the backlash at the front wheels is at the upper limit of Ford's tolerance. Will be interesting to see what you found!

Well, it's raining right now, so I wont be crawling under the truck until it stops (which apparently may be Monday). Mine makes the noise as long as the truck is moving, even at a crawl. CV axles usually make noise when turning, so I'm pretty sure it's not axle related. At this point I'm guessing the driveshaft CV joint. I'll post what I find. If it is the driveshaft CV joint it doesn't seem to be worth replacing, as it costs almost as much as the DA driveshaft and is more work and won't replace the rear u-joint.

 

[2TimingTom]

I've got the drive shaft off mine taking up space in the garage right now. Looking at the picture on the ebay ad looks just like mine.

I'd let it go for MUCH less than what the ebay ad is asking.

I can get a part number off it tonight to cross reference if you're interested.

 

[koda2000]

I've got the drive shaft off mine taking up space in the garage right now. Looking at the picture on the ebay ad looks just like mine.

I'd let it go for MUCH less than what the ebay ad is asking.

I can get a part number off it tonight to cross reference if you're interested.

Yes, I'm interested, but I have to do more investigation to make sure that's the problem. I'll let you know. -Thanks.

 

[bubba_gump]

i had the same problem on my 2000 mountaineer i called my mechanic and he said sounds like the viscus clutch is bad and a new transfer case with labor would be $3000 i didnt like the sounds of that so i took it to a tranny shop he looked at it and determined that i needed a new front driveshaft because the stock one had just got old and worn out

 

[SoNic67]

It's the CV joint of the driveshaft. I have replaced mine (the CV) with a Dorman one - very easy. Harder was the U-joint on the other end, but I did that just because that shaft was out anyway.

See here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3252817&postcount=31

 

[koda2000]

It's the CV joint of the driveshaft. I have replaced mine (the CV) with a Dorman one - very easy. Harder was the U-joint on the other end, but I did that just because that shaft was out anyway.

See here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3252817&postcount=31

Thanks, that's the answer I was hoping for. I agree. It looks easy enough to replace the CV (but messy as hell). As soon as it stops raining I'll pull the front driveshaft out and see how the u-joint looks. If the u-joint is also wasted I'll have to decide whether I want to rebuild it or just replace the shaft. Of all my trucks this is the one with the most rust and I don't feel like doing battle with it.

While I don't want to spend a lot of money on this repair (I also need to replace all 4 tires, change the fluids and I have a list of other small repairs to make) it's on my daughters dime and she can easily afford it. She doesn't maintain her vehicles and always waits until the problem makes the vehicle un-drivable before expecting me to fix it. Then she expects me to fix it the same day I get it. She's one of the reasons I have the "spare truck". That's also why I made her get AAA (she lives 50 miles away). Trust me, AAA loses money on her.

I didn't want her to buy this particular Mountaineer to begin with, but it had to be a certain color, with a certain color interior, with a sun roof and this was the only one that met all her criteria. The fact that it was AWD was a surprise to me, as it was advertised as 2WD. I'll be glad when she gets her new Accord as I don't work on foreign/Japanese vehicles and she knows it.

She's going to be in training for her new job for the next 8 weeks so I have plenty of time to do what I need to do for a change, while my spare truck sits at the airport.

 

[1Aauto]

We carry new CV joints, as-well-as replacement front driveshafts for your 2001 Mercury Mountaineer. Here's a link to them on our website, if you would like to take a look at them.

Mercury Mountaineer Driveshaft

 

[SoNic67]

Thanks, that's the answer I was hoping for. I agree. It looks easy enough to replace the CV (but messy as hell). As soon as it stops raining I'll pull the front driveshaft out and see how the u-joint looks. If the u-joint is also wasted I'll have to decide whether I want to rebuild it or just replace the shaft.

It's cheaper to replace the CV and the U-Joint. But if the shaft is rusted, I can tell you the U-Joint will put up a fight. I managed to crack the cup on one of the U-Joints (on rear shaft) because it wasn't going in.
And without a bench vise, don't even try the U-joints.

 

[koda2000]

It's cheaper to replace the CV and the U-Joint. But if the shaft is rusted, I can tell you the U-Joint will put up a fight. I managed to crack the cup on one of the U-Joints (on rear shaft) because it wasn't going in.
And without a bench vise, don't even try the U-joints.

I'm thinking I'll buy this for the CV joint and if I also need to replace the u-joint I'll buy that locally and use by mechanic friends press and torch if necessary to change it (and I do have a bench vice). I wonder if I can borrow that tool shown in the CV rebuild video that tightens the band clamp on the boot?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Front-D...201-/371447531320?hash=item567bff8738&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-JOINT-BA...hash=item4d391ab300&item=331670532864&vxp=mtr

 

[1998Exp]

I would suggest reading members' reviews on this site before purchasing the Dorman CV joint - they seems mixed, with some complaining about very short life for the rubber boot. If my experience is worth anything, I purchased one of those from Amazon. The first thing that caught my eye was a note inside the box, instructing to check the motion and return if it's not smooth or some such. That told me something about their quality control (or rather lack thereof). As soon as I took that thing out of the box, it simply fell apart, with the balls spilling out. It went back the same day...
If you are going to purchase this item, I would suggest to spend a little more and get it locally, so you can perform the 'recommended inspection' right at the counter, and be spared the possible hassle of shipping it back.

I'm thinking I'll buy this for the CV
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Front-D...201-/371447531320?hash=item567bff8738&vxp=mtr

 

[koda2000]

I would suggest reading members' reviews on this site before purchasing the Dorman CV joint - they seems mixed, with some complaining about very short life for the rubber boot. If my experience is worth anything, I purchased one of those from Amazon. The first thing that caught my eye was a note inside the box, instructing to check the motion and return if it's not smooth or some such. That told me something about their quality control (or rather lack thereof). As soon as I took that thing out of the box, it simply fell apart, with the balls spilling out. It went back the same day...
If you are going to purchase this item, I would suggest to spend a little more and get it locally, so you can perform the 'recommended inspection' right at the counter, and be spared the possible hassle of shipping it back.

I appreciate the advice on the Dorman piece. I'm really not a huge fan of Dorman stuff anyway.

 

[SoNic67]

I am not a fan either, but it seems that all the CV's and rebuild axles out there use the same thing. Mine lasted for now...
I have reused the OE bolts, gasket and back cap, they looked sturdier. I have used a wide tie-wrap for better sealing the booth.

 

[koda2000]

I am not a fan either, but it seems that all the CV's and rebuild axles out there use the same thing. Mine lasted for now...
I have reused the OE bolts, gasket and back cap, they looked sturdier. I have used a wide tie-wrap for better sealing the booth.

Update:
I've done some additional research and there doesn't seem to be any other choices regarding CV repair kits. I also checked customer reviews on the Dorman kit (PN 932-201) and the two complaints people had were that the bolts provided are too short (I can just reuse my old bolts) and that the boot quality is poor (maybe I can reuse my OE boot if it's not torn). Approx 70% of the reviews were positive and all the negative reviews were regarding the bolts and boot. No one with boot complaints said whether there vehicles were lifted or not. If they were that might explain the boot problems.

How many miles do you have on the Dorman boot?

BTW, I've used plastic ties on CV boots in the past and while they have worked I found that they eventually break and had to be replaced periodically.

 

[SoNic67]

I guess I didn't remember right... I took a peek now and I have the metallic strap on it.
I did replace the CV 2 years ago, drove 21k miles (always write the date and mileage in the car "journal"). It still looks and feels brand new.

 

[bill06447]

I have done the CV joint...quite a simple procedure, and much more cost effective than the whole shaft. During reassembly, mount with two of the old longer bolts, using them to compress the boot to the cover so the new bolts can get a start, then replace the two longer ones with the short ones.

Bill

 

[koda2000]

I have done the CV joint...quite a simple procedure, and much more cost effective than the whole shaft. During reassembly, mount with two of the old longer bolts, using them to compress the boot to the cover so the new bolts can get a start, then replace the two longer ones with the short ones.

Bill

Good tip. I'd rather use the hex head bolts than the Allen's.

 

[SoNic67]

I have used the Allen's because they seemed "larger". The hex head needs to be smaller to leave room for the socket around it. The stamped steel is fairly thin, that's why they have the 3 "pairing" brackets, to distribute the load evenly.
Front U-Joint is similar situation, a hex socket barely fits.

PS: I have an Allen set for use with 3/8" ratchet, because of my Ford vehicles.

 

[koda2000]

I have used the Allen's because they seemed "larger". The hex head needs to be smaller to leave room for the socket around it. The stamped steel is fairly thin, that's why they have the 3 "pairing" brackets, to distribute the load evenly.
Front U-Joint is similar situation, a hex socket barely fits.

PS: I have an Allen set for use with 3/8" ratchet, because of my Ford vehicles.

I have Allen sockets to work on my motorcycles. I'll see what seems to work best bolt-wise. What's the torque spec for those bolts? I figure around 22-25 ft lbs. I don't recall that I've ever had to use an Allen on my Fords, and I've had a lot of stuff apart. What I need to buy are some female torx sockets (what are they called... E-sockets?)