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Front end overhaul

ctxlt98

New Member
Joined
March 16, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Burlington, CT
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT
The front end on my 98 XLT 4x4 is shot and I'm getting ready to do some work. I have already got a ton of great info from this site as well as some youtube videos so thanks to everyone who has posted videos, pics, etc!

My question is am I missing anything? I already replaced the shocks. I am going to do upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and sway bar end links. Is there anything else I should be looking at to replace while I have it apart? My mechanic skills are fair at best so this should be fun!
 



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Look for any signs of leakage from your steering rack before you start putting it back together.
 






You could add some 4* adjustable camber bolts to the Upper control arms to dial in the alignment better.

Check the pass side UCA bushings if you go with the 2 pc UBJ arm replacement.

Also check the rack & pinion bushings. If there bad, they can give a false reading with TRE's. In other words, if the R&P bushings are shot, there is up & down play in the rack. This will allow the wheels to move in/out and make one think the TRE's are bad.

Check the Hubs for any slack/play. The wheel will have play in any direction you move it (back and forth), if they are going out, unlike BJ's or TRE's that need side to side or top & bottom slack/play to diagnose.

Check the torsion bar pads for wear or worn out. Replace them if they are.

Check the 3rd member (front diff) rear mount for broken bushing.

Check the trans rubber mount to make sure it is not torn and is still attached to the metal mount. This can give false front end diagnoses as well with clunks and slamming.

Check the C/V axles thoroughly for torn boots, leakage, etc...

While your under, might as well check the U-joints on the drive shafts.

If you need anything help wise, just ask away, were all here for ya. ;)
 






Thanks!! Its posts like these that make this a cool site. It sounds like I have my work cut out for me.
 


















almost finished

It took me about 10 hours to do upper and lower balljoints, tie rods, sway bar bushings and endlinks. It cost about $600 at napa and I spent $100 at sears on some tools I needed. The guy at napa claimed that Moog is not what it used to be and recomended the napa suspension parts instead. Maybe he's a good salesman, maybe he's right?

I have never done a job like this, so it was a little intimidating before starting. It actually turned out great and was pretty easy. There is just a lot to take apart and put together.

Now to the alignment shop...
 












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