Front Suspension Overhaul Questions

[shaker1]

I am getting ready to perform some suspension maintenance and looking for advice to make everything go as smoothly as possible.

Last weekend I installed new ES3000 shocks on my 98 4WD XLT (123,000). No previous suspension work ever. Drives true and straight, no uneven tire wear.

The outer TREs seem to have excessive play, so I have ordered them from fastpartsnetwork. Also, I ordered Energy Suspension sway bar bushings/end links.

Tomorrow, I will jack up the wheels and check for excess play from the ball joints and wheel bearings.

My questions are:

1. How can I tell if the inner ties rods are needing replacement? Are these best left to the dealer?

2. Given the torsion bar suspension, do the lower ball joints tend to wear out more quickly than the upper ball joints?

3. Does the 4WD version have (reasonably) serviceable/greasable wheel bearings? Seems to require removal/disassembly of the hub, etc.

4. Anything else I should consider checking/ replacing while the outer TREs and sway bar is being serviced?

5. Is it possible to reinstall the TREs by measuring the length and counting the turns (on removal) and not require an alignment?

TIA, Steve

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I can answer #3.
NO. The front wheel bearings are not serviceable. To replace them you buy the whole front hub. They run $150-200 per hub depending on where & what brand you buy.

 

[shaker1]

Thanks Dan, it sure looked like a big pain. One less thing to worry about!

 

[ncc]

Hi there!

I'm not sure what your budget is, but I just completely rebuilt the front-end on my '97 Eddie Bauer. We use this vehicle as our family grocery-getter and as a highway-driven commuter so I didn't need anything too spectacular as far as parts went.

If you're going to be tearing in there anyway, you should try to do as many things as possible; trust me, you'll appreciate the difference!

In a nutshell, here's what I went through:

2 Lower Ball Joints @ $31.48/each
2 Outer Tie Rod Ends @ $31.48/each
2 Inner Tie Rods @ $31.48/each
(yes, these parts all surprisingly were the exact same price!)
2 Upper Control Arms w/Integrated Upper Ball Joints @ $118.88/each
2 Front Shocks (Monroe) @ $22.96/each
Cotter Pin Asst'd Set @ $2.48/pack
New Nuts and Bolts where needed @ approx. $10

Total Cost: $485.04
Awesomely Improved Handling: Priceless!

Hope this gives you an idea of what you're looking at. Feel free to ask questions if you run into any snags during your project!

BTW, for what it's worth, I did also completely replace all four calipers, pads and rotors on the truck as well as the rear shocks at the same time. Something to consider....

Jeremy
'97 EB 4.0L SOHC

 

[ncc]

Oh yeah, and your question about doing a rough alignment is spot-on....

If you count the number of threads showing on your old TRE's and then match your new ones to their respective number on each side, you should be pretty darn close. If you do go ahead and replace the upper control arms, though, you might throw your alignment off a little bit. Either way, it's a good idea to have a professional alignment done after performing this kind of work.

 

[shaker1]

Oh yeah, and your question about doing a rough alignment is spot-on....

If you count the number of threads showing on your old TRE's and then match your new ones to their respective number on each side, you should be pretty darn close. If you do go ahead and replace the upper control arms, though, you might throw your alignment off a little bit. Either way, it's a good idea to have a professional alignment done after performing this kind of work.

Thanks, you really nailed my main questions! I was trying to decide if I should just replace everything or go the minimalist route. Today I jacked up each side and checked for excess play in the balljoints and visually inspected the control arm bushings. Everything seems quite solid and looks great!

I will do the TREs and sway bar bushings and see how that improves steering response and handling. Then when I do the balljoints and bushings, I will do a complete replacement like you did, all at once. Then I follow that up with a professional alignment.

Right now my brakes are strong (20,000 miles on new frt. rotors and Raybestos metallic pads all around). But, when I do them again, it will be 4 new calipers, rotors, pads, speed bleeders and braided lines.

Thanks again, I am sure I will be asking questions when I tear into the front end!

 

[Jefe]

I would do inner TRE's at the same time you do the outers, regardless of wear. You'll be 90% of the way to doing the inners by removing the outers. Not to mention not having to pay to align it twice.

 

[Turdle]

An option for you


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball...014QQitemZ330014589288QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

These are greasable units

 

[shaker1]

I would do inner TRE's at the same time you do the outers, regardless of wear. You'll be 90% of the way to doing the inners by removing the outers. Not to mention not having to pay to align it twice.

Thanks Jefe,

Exactly the kind of advice I was looking for!

Steve

 

[shaker1]

An option for you


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball...014QQitemZ330014589288QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

These are greasable units

Unfortunately, I already ordered the outer TREs and Sway bar kit. Never even thought of Ebay. Still, it may even be worth it, just for the inner TREs and balljoint kits!

Thanks,

Steve

 

[shaker1]

Ok, since I have decided to do both inner and outer TREs at the same time, are there any special tools or procedures necessary for the inner TREs? How about the boots? Can they be removed and replaced without new parts (assuming they are not damaged. Or is it a good idea to replace them anyhow?

 

[Jefe]

You will need to remove the metal straps that hold on the boots (pry off with screwdriver) and replace them with something else when finished. I used a couple large wire ties. To remove the inner TRE you will need to steer the wheel so that the joint is visible, and use a couple of large wrenches to remove it, one on the R&P and one on the joint. I used a large crecent wrench and a pipe wrench.
Remove the inner and outer TRE's as one unit, and then set up the new set to the same length so that your alignment is at least close.

 

[shaker1]

Almost missed your response here. Thanks, this is what I needed to hear. I've got the cable ties for the boot (and that looks like what they provide with replacement boots anyhow). I didn't even think of steering the wheels to get access to the fitting...DUH!

Thanks again!