Front locker install

[afastfour]

I am currently installing a Genuine Gear "Quick-Lok" type locker in my '94 EB Explorer w/ the D-35...has anyone done this? I am unclear about what to do or when to install the passenger side stub shaft and c-clip. I have the carrier out of the housing, and from what it looks like, the locker can not be installed w/o the carrier being out of the housing, due to the roll-pin style of retainer that holds the center pin in. I installed the rear locker w/o problems, but this one has got me stumped. Anyone have any experience w/ these "lunch box" lockers? Thanks for any and all help. Email afastfour@yahoo.com if it is more convienient. Thanks again.

Jamie

 

[RangerX]

This link might help you. http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/InstallingAFrontLocker.htm

 

[410Fortune]

Wow there are some good tips in there. I notice people forget to line up the U joints on the inner and outer shaft on the passenger side, you can almost always chime in with your 2 cents on that one, but he picked it up!

That article should be exactly what you are looking for.
Also DO weld the cap on the slip yoke stub shaft, the last thing you want is for it to come apart on the trial or wherever and have to dis assemble it all again..

 

[afastfour]

After sitting down w/ this, I think that I will be able to install the locker in the differential while it is in the case. I think that I will be able to drive the roll pin in with the one bearing cap removed. I coulpe of issues...why would you not replace the vertical bolt holding the case into the radius arm? Also, I am going to reinstall the c-clip on my axle...I am not sure what he is talking about w/ the spring...anyone done this? And lastly, what are they talking about welding? I will post tomorrow and let you know how this worked out for me...thanks to all who replied.

 

[410Fortune]

OKay if you can get the C clip in there, do it.
I have been running the spring for over a year now, you see with many lockers you cannot get the C clip in there, so the stub shaft wants to fall out of the carrier.
The only way to keep enough pressure on the stub shaft to keep it in the carrier is to run a stiff spring in the slip yoke. The spring pressure will blow the end cap off of the slip yoke, so you have to put a couple tack welds on it.

the trick is getting the right spring tension and the right spring length, because too stiff of a spring will cause all sorts of problems as well, it puts pressure on the outer axleshaft where it is retained in the spindle with the star washer and C clip. it can also allow the stub shaft to move around quite a bit in the carrier, making it difficult to keep the axle shaft lube seal from leaking.....


Now as far as the carrier to beam bolt is concerend, it is there for a reason and should be re-installed. The way the TTB is designed the carrier becomes a structural part of the drivers side beam, that is the purpose of this bolt.
I see no reason why not to re-install it. Who is telling you not to?
I have seen many many aftermarket radius arms that need "clearancing" with a grinder in this area to clear the beam, but never a problem getting that bolt back in.