Front shock replacement help

[M-three]

Hi everyone,
I am planning on replacing my Explorers schocks this weekend. My truck just rolled past 90k miles and im pretty sure it still has the factory shocks. Anyway, I read Hartman's write up on shock replacement and I have a quick question. I would like to take the front wheels off to do this ( I will also be doing my brakes so they will be off already). I was just wondering if I had to support the lower A arm with a jack stand to keep the torsion bar from pushing the whole hub to the floor after the shock is removed. I hope this make sense, thanks in advance.

 

[EBInterceptor]

You won't need to support the A-arm. It's a really easy job. If you look in the useful threads section the write up should be in there on how to replace 2nd gen shocks.

 

[Hartman]

The shock doesn't hold up any weight so you don't have to support the a-arm.

 

[Kamaaina]

I beg to differ but the front shock is what controls the travel of the lower A-arm when it "tops-out". Notice that there isn't any rubber bumper for topping out, the shock reaches full extension and stops everything. So if you don't support the lower arm the A-arm will drop (make that slam) on to whatever the next limiting factor is, probably the ball joints. I just hope your head isn't under the arm when the shock is disconnected this way.

 

[Hartman]

Have you ever changed your front shocks? The suspension doesn't move at all when you take out the front shocks. It is not the limiting factor on the suspension.

 

[Kamaaina]

When I removed the front shocks and jacked up the front end the tire/wheel assembly drops an additional 1-1/2", then the ball joints hit their travel limit.

 

[Hartman]

You sure you're not hallucinating?

 

[Kamaaina]

Nope! No drugs, either! One quick check is to look at your upper shock mount rubber bushing as you jack up the front end. When you reach the extreme droop position I'll bet that upper mount is squashed. If the shock wasn't there what would limit the maximum droop? There's no bump stops for droop.

 

[Hartman]

I didn't experience any of that. My suspension doesn't move at all when I take the shocks out.

 

[Kamaaina]

Do you remove your shocks with the tires on the ground?

 

[Hartman]

I always jack my truck up and remove the tires to install shocks.

 

[Kamaaina]

Hmmmmm. I wonder what stops your suspension from dropping any further w/o the shocks. I always change the shocks with my "X" on the ground so the shocks aren't max'ed out extended. This thread is sure getting long!!!

 

[M-three]

So let me get this straight, I dont want to lose a hand or mess up my ride doing this. I can jack up my EX, take off the wheel and remove the shock without worrying about the torsion bar "slamming" the whole thing to the ground. And thanks to the three of you for all the replys.

 

[Hartman]

See what you did now, you made him think that the suspension will "slam" down, which is totally untrue! It's as simple as jacking the truck up, taking the tire off, and unbolting the shocks. Or, leave the tire on, turn the wheel all the way to one side and change them that way. Nothing is going to slam or snap or anything.

 

[EBInterceptor]

I thought this thread ended this afternoon since I've been gone, and look what I missed. I'm agreeing with Hartman though. There was no drooping that I noticed. For the inners of the wheels to hit the ground though, the X would have to be very low to start. Considering that you have to have the front end high enough to get the tires off, there is still quite a bit of space between the ground and the brakes and everything. If anything, I had to compress the shocks to get them into place, not bring the a-arms up the shock mounts. Which if everything drooped badly it would be the other way around.

 

[Bronco638]

I just did mine about a month ago. The front suspension did not move after I jacked up the truck, removed the front wheels and disconnected the shocks. I did find it easier, for installation and removal, to remove that "tar paper" skirt from the inner wheel well. That will give you access to the top of the shock without having to reach into the engine compartment. Be careful with the plastic fasteners, they can break or you can rip the skirt. Also, I had to use a propane torch to warm up the top shock bolts, they were rusted in place. If you do this, be sure to shield the lines and wires that run close by. Don't be intimidated, it's not a difficult job. Be sure to have metric tools.
Dave.

 

[Hartman]

Those little skirts have been gone off my truck for a long time!

 

[M-three]

I am done. My truck drives better then when I got it. Thanks for everyone's advice. All it took was about three hours, half a 6 pack, half a pack of smokes plus a couple skinned knuckles. And no, nothing "slammed" when i took off the front shocks. thanks again.

 

[Hartman]

Congrats.