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Frustrations With Fuse 10

Outlaw376

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Joined
March 30, 2025
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City, State
South Burlington, VT
Year, Model & Trim Level
97’ Explorer XLT 4x4 Auto
I’ve got a 1997 Explorer 4x4 Auto that keeps blowing fuse #10 and I am having trouble diagnosing where the short is. I’ve found the helms wiring diagrams online for a 1999 explorer and i imagine they are pretty similar if not exactly the same. Ive also followed along with several other posts on here with similar problems with fuse 10 just blowing every time you pop in a new fuse and one user found that it was the rear blower and another found that it was the message center. The symptoms in mine most align with bcgreens problems in this thread.

The car was passed to me from my brother and when i got it fuse 10 was blown, there was no display from the overhead console and it wouldn’t shift into 4x4. So a week or so into owning I replaced the fuse and it kept blowing them so i dove a little deeper suspecting something with the GEM module so i dove in and disconected it, removed it, inspected it and found nothing out of the ordinary so I put it back in and replaced the fuse and this time the fuse didn’t pop. This held for a majority of this past winter up until a few weeks ago when it blew again (no display and no 4x4). From when i got it as well the front blower would work but it wouldn’t only turn on when i had the setting set to just upper vents and motor speed set to 3 (super weird but it would work every time). In addition to this the rear blower would work but it would only turn on if the front blower was set to off. Now since The fuse blew I’ve had no response from either blower motor, every so often the front will kick on randomly but nothing in particular seems to get it going and the rear wont go at all. In addition to this now when i replace the fuse and turn the key to on it just burns the fuse out immediately.

So my gut reaction to all of this has been that there is a short somewhere from fuse 10 in the aux box to one of the accessories that it controls, so I’ve gone through and disconnected the speed control servo, the overhead console, the steering rate sensor, the function selector switch(according to wiring diagrams this is the climate control on ones not equipped with EATC), The Turn Signal Flasher, The GEM module, The shift lock actuator and the Wiring harness under where the message center would be if mine had one. With all of these disconnected i still blow fuses when they’re replaced and the key is turned on. So my thought is that somewhere along the line the wire has rubbed through and is making contact with a ground. In addition to this Ive used my multimeter to do a continuity test from the out side of the fuse slot in the panel to the hot wire in each of these connectors and it rings out like it should but it will also ring out on wires that I assume are grounds as well.

So i guess my big question is do my diagnostic methods seem like they make sense or is there something im missing? I am at a loss here and have done enough head scratching for one weekend so i figured id make a post to hopefully have someone here point me in the right direction.

Cheers and thanks in advance hopefully we can find the problem.
 



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Fuse 10 in the interior fuse panel?

Blower only working on high is usually a bad thermactor in the heater box

I’ll get you the proper wiring schematic for fuse 10 in a 97 explorer later today
95 might be similar it might not, 95 was a strange year.

I’m assuming fuse 10 on the interior fuse panel not under the hood


Does your 97 have electronic temp controls or manual?

Fuse 10 should be 7.5 amp
You are on the right track

But we need To see the actual wiring circuits

The Blower motors are high power they do not run off a 7.5 amp fuses… only the controller does
 






Fuse 10 in the interior fuse panel?

Blower only working on high is usually a bad thermactor in the heater box

I’ll get you the proper wiring schematic for fuse 10 in a 97 explorer later today
95 might be similar it might not, 95 was a strange year.

I’m assuming fuse 10 on the interior fuse panel not under the hood


Does your 97 have electronic temp controls or manual?

Fuse 10 should be 7.5 amp
You are on the right track

But we need To see the actual wiring circuits

The Blower motors are high power they do not run off a 7.5 amp fuses… only the controller does
Yup fuse 10 in the interior box is the one, and mine has manual temp controls, it doesn’t have the eatc controller.
 






Found this
 






So…the blower motor bypasses the “resistor” mounted in the box below it (can’t remember the official name) when set to high. This is regardless of EATC or manual controls. Lower settings send power through the resistor. So if the resistor is blown, the fan will only run on high.

That said, what often kills these resistors is a failing fan motor. The bearings start going, and the motor starts pulling a TON of amperage trying to overcome that drag. That’ll burn the resistor…and perhaps is popping a fuse with the fan set to high?

The manual resistor units can actually be rebuilt by soldering in a replacement resistor. I can get you the data for it if you want.

I’d pull the blower motor and check to see that it spins freely. If not, time for a replacement. And fix/replace the resistor.

Not saying that’s your ultimate problem here, but it’s definitely an issue.
 












Found this
Yup read this one as well, mine doesn’t have a message center so unfortunately not the culprit in my case
 






The overhead consoles are known for shorts they get wet from leaky sunroof or just fail over time

The brake interlock can also go bad and cause a short

Basically start unplugging things and see when the fuse stops popping that’s the old school way to finding the issue

I will Post fuse 10 wiring diagrams but I only have my 2000 explorer book with me so I’m hoping they are similar (should be)
 






Fuse 10
Goes to
Many places

IMG_4723.jpeg


IMG_4722.jpeg


IMG_4724.jpeg


Hazard flasher, shift/ brake interlock, blend door actuator and heated seat modules all super suspect
Get a flashlight and start inspecting the grey with yellow wire at these locations and from back of fuse panel itself

IMG_4720.jpeg
 






Fuse 10
Goes to
Many places

View attachment 463573

View attachment 463574

View attachment 463576

Hazard flasher, shift/ brake interlock, blend door actuator and heated seat modules all super suspect
Get a flashlight and start inspecting the grey with yellow wire at these locations and from back of fuse panel itself

View attachment 463575
Thanks for the diagrams,
I was working off of the same ones that said they were from a 99 and the wire colors match up with what I found digging through the car.

Can I rule out a couple of devices like heated seats, message center, air ride control because the car isn’t equipped with those options? Or should there be wiring tho the areas where those would be if the car had those options? I couldn’t find evidence of any connectors or wiring for a message center but didn’t check to see for heated seats and air ride control.

All that being said over the last two days I went through and removed all of the trim pieces from the dash and disconnected everything I could find from the that had a gray/yellow wire to it including a couple of wiring harness connectors that were bolted together with a 10mm(one under the cup holders/radio area and one in the engine bay on drivers side of engine) and still with everything disconnected the fuse pops as soon as you turn the key on, so my thought is that somewhere behind the dash one of those gray/yellow wires must’ve either rubbed through and is making contact with a ground wire or with the body or some other type of ground.

Unfortunately my need for a set of wheels for the back end of this week overrides my desire to find this short so last night I had to button it all back up to use it but I will be tearing into it again and this time I’m contemplating trying to remove the whole dash.
 






Instead of looking for a chaffed wire
One of your items / solenoids / sensors might have a short

The shift interlock is one suspect because I have seen them go bad more then once. It is on the back of your steering column shifter

The external air temp sensor also suspect because it’s a temp sensor and is exposed to the weather, mounted just behind your grill front bumper.

The flasher relay also suspect because well it’s a relay, they wear out Easy enough to unplug

Same with the speed control servo cruise control module under the hood, super easy to un plug

Blend door motor is also suspect especially if you are having issues with the hvac system

Since you don’t have air suspension message center heated seats, the wiring to them is still in the truck but only half of it, to where these things would plug in normally, so unless one of these connectors melted or got wet or? They are lower down on the list of suspects

I wouldn’t remove the whole dash just yet
 






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